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Primare Knob

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About Primare Knob

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  1. We have it insured under home and context with a specified value for audio gear, as the insured value for standard coverage isn't sufficient enough.
  2. I am not familiar with any, but the ones that can set delay/timing might be more useful.
  3. What type of cables are you running, and what type of red white terminal? It is unlikely that you can mix them. Have you thought about using a wireless transmitter and receiver for the sub?
  4. Where is your TV going to be placed, above the fire place? Where are you planing the center speaker, and is your potential screen going to cover it? If you are going to run wires through ceilings and walls, then just "wire" it for the max. Run conduits instead of plain wires if you can, and run a pull string through them upfront, if possible. Keep in mind that HDMI cables are terminated with a rather wide plug. Run ethernet as well to the projector, and your TV, it's always helpful in automation or HDMI over Ethernet. Hang your projector in a convenient spot, most modern projector won't have a problem with light output for 2K with your room length, But 4K might be a different story. Projector Central has an online calculator that will come in handy. Wire for 2 subs if you can, but you'll have to figure placement out, up front. Well placed subs can deal with nulls and peaks where EQ can only deal with peaks. A "subwoofer crawl" would the best option to determine this. Run some ceiling cornices around your projector and potential motorised screen to integrate them into the room.
  5. Have a look at some pro audio amps, they can be quite powerful, cheap, but also loud. Sometimes you can do a mod to deal with the loud fans inside such amps.
  6. If you are enjoying your system why not keep enjoying it? What is it that you think you are missing out on? With your type of amp, each power amplifier is fed by a single power supply, which will be the limiting factor in what power it can deliver for each channel at the same time. Adding a power amp, with its own power supply, means freeing up power supply resources which will generate a bigger headroom. Whether you need it or not depends on many factors, and you should try before you buy. Buying a power amp usually means you get a dedicated device for a single job, which in general terms should translate into better quality, but that doesn't mean that you will also notice it, if you don't know what you are after. By design, AV gear is generally not delivering great audio quality directly compared to stereo gear. It just has to do to many things and support to many gizmos cramped in a tight space. Long story short, try some other gear at home, and then decide in which area you like to make improvements.
  7. I bought the cheapest plunge router that Bunnings had to offer. I don't think the trim routers are suitable for this job.
  8. Finally started working on my first subs build, using Dayton RSS390HO drivers The core plan was to keep them small, 410x410x410x18mm, with drivers and bracing that comes down to roughly 44l net. The baffle is double 18mm, and I did manage to piece together the 3D bracing today. Bought a router last weekend, as the blade of the jigsaw was warping too much and wasn't creating a perfect circle. My plan is to finish the outside by using the same bamboo floor boards that are in the cinema room, but I will need the help of a table saw to get that right. Hopefully my neighbour can be persuaded with some beers.
  9. Unlikely that you are going to notice a difference. There is potentially a small benefit in bi-amp a passive x-over. One amp for LF and one amp for MF/HF. Bi-wire is still using a single amp for LF and MF/HF It is just a marketing gadget/naming. If you read the info on your amp, it isn't even mentioned in their sales pitch.
  10. I don't know about that, but my subs are placed at the halfway length of the room, and 90cm closer by than my main speakers. With a 100Hz x-over (1/4 length is 85cm) I could localised the subs and sound would jump between sub and main speakers. This is sitting rather close to the sub
  11. Are you sure you want to do this with subs? That is right on the edge of most bass management x-overs, and everything above 80-100Hz can be localised. You will have to put them very close to your main speakers, and this way you loose out on bass optimisation by placement.
  12. Proper placement of a Sub and EQ-ing, can improve the lower bass and mid bass. One sub is never ideal, as you will have nulls that can't be cured. As mentioned, EQ has still a function even with room treatment. The impact won't be as big as room treatment and since you have some on your sub, it would not be an high priority at the moment.
  13. The analogue output can be used instead of HDMI. Some players do have some basic DSP implementation for setting speaker distance, size, and perhaps level, and bass management. Some can even be used as an digital pre amp. You mentioned that your player has been modified. Usually these modifications are done on the analogue parts. If you use HDMI you probably not making use of these modifications.
  14. You can't compare HT with stereo money for money. HT has to do a lot more tricks. Speakers have the biggest impact on sound, so you should run HT via your stereo speakers for a start, as a fair comparison. A mingle of the two can be done. I would not ditch the center speaker, as the center speakers is the most used speaker in a HT setup. Not only for dialogue, but also for paning and off center stereo effects. Don't expect to find HT that performs at a quality stereo setup without spending some serious money. It can be done without breaking the bank but it requires an unconventional plan of attack. You haven't told us what your stereo setup is like, which would be helpful as that is your point of reference.
  15. They only work in large rooms, not something for your typical living room
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