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Primare Knob

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  1. Ah, that is before Foxtel was doing online streaming. I suppose you would be able to run a dual output from PC to projector and TV. I haven't run into anything yet that I couldn't do on the PC, although streaming services sometimes don't enable surround sound on their web applications.
  2. The DA converter can be any brand, but not all brands support multichannel USB, even if the DAC support USB which could be limited to stereo only, and a company with a good track record on stable drivers would be preferred. You can always use a different connection like AES/EBU via PCIe which many support but this will add to the cost. It is also nice to keep extension in mind if you looking for more channels, which pro audio converters are better equipped for. Do keep in mind that pro audio works with a +4dBU signal which will result in higher default voltages than the consumer -10dBV. There is also the option of using a multichannel PCIe audio card, but I would look for independent measurements to see how they fare. Ideally you want to look for the (best) DA converter that can give you the most digital headroom above 16bit(CD quality) The best will peak between 20-21 bits of dynamic range which will give you 4-5 bits of headroom or 24-30dB of attenuation. This can be managed for example by using dither and or up scaling and in how DSP is implemented and which bits are effected, but the exact workings are beyond my understanding. This will come in play when you have powerful amplifiers, and or high efficiency speakers and or sitting at a close distance.
  3. I recently bought this thing for $120 AUD (now for $102 AUD incl shipping) and for the money an absolute steal.
  4. I have been looking for a cheap USB DAC with a headphone amp for a PC, and the cheapest I could find that measured well was the Hidenzs for $120 AUD incl shipping. (seems even cheaper now). Today I have received the item and I am instantly impressed. It is serious small which makes it very useful, and it comes complete with all cables, Apple, Micro USB, Mini USB 3, Full USB. What was even better is that it worked with my old Android phone instantly, worked instantly with my old Iphone which refuses to work with it's own headphone adapter, and works on the MAC and Windows PC without a fuss. What is even better, is the SQ, it just puts a smile on my face. I can already see this thing becoming the most used audio device in the house. I am thinking about getting a second one, as I can see it getting lost somewhere in the future. I am not a reviewer, and think it still comes down to personal taste, but I believe this thing will be hard to flaw once you have it. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/hidizs-s8-usb-c-headphone-adapter-review.10823/ https://www.hidizs.net/products/s8
  5. I would set up the speakers first to find their best (bass) performance and work from there. Are your L and R speakers sitting next to the screen? I have seen a couple of designs with angled baffled walls. This could be an option when toe-in is required. This guy seems to use them a lot in his design http://arqen.com/studio-design/ A different example on AVS https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/3106228-dutch-confusion-build.html called baffle wings The first post here https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1504351-baffle-wall-constant-directivity-waveguide-speakers-toe.html seems to link a couple of papers regarding toe in and baffle wall. (haven't read them myself) As it seems you have a lot of room behind your baffle, you might want to measure your room already to find acoustic problems in your bass region. Bass traps can take up a lot of space, specially the ones targeted for a specific range. Ideally you want a mix of different type of traps (broadband and targeted (if required)) if you have the space for it. Regarding question 8. Green Glue or some other permanent flexible glue and multiple layers (different Materials )is usually a good idea to fight resonations. Mine isn't really a baffle wall, as it is based upon absorption. I have tested with skyline diffusers directly behind the screen instead of absorption, and this had a big impact on sound-stage, which was brought into to the room much more than with absorption in place.
  6. The Trinnov is a PC with an ATMOS and DTS-X (expensive) license. It doesn't harm to have a good quality CPU in your home server. If you have to do transcoding (especially with subtitles) it will cost some resources. I store full BD copies on the server but run a ChromeCast for the TV, which needs transcoding. Storage definitely cost you, certainly if you run a full back up as well. My home server (and backup) have 14TB each, and I am thinking about once that is full, to skip back up and use the BD discs as backup and just keep an up to date database only back up. The good thing is that the back up PC doesn't have to be expensive and can be run with old hdd's as they are hardly used. Gumtree and hard rubbish are your friends. All of my hardware is old stuff, and at least 8 years old or hanging together with mixed bits and pieces, except for my gaming Graphics Card.
  7. My reasons for walking down this path had to do with the lack of SQ, high depreciation values, over abundance of useless functions and other things that I didn't need. I firmly believe I have better sound quality (for less money), the pro DAC and the 2 channel amps will hold their value better, and I have all the functionality that I need. It also comes with a few caveats. You can't decode Atmos or DTS-X on a PC, it is not the type of setup that is easy for the rest of the family (turning things on and off requires some attention, and your main setup is a PC ), I don't have any inputs (although I could route the AD from the DAC through the PC and out to the DA again), there is no automatic setup for EQ (unless you want to spends some big dollars on software), and component matching is more important than in your general setup as impedance ratios can impact SQ. The benefit is that you have a lot of freedom and that you can do all sorts of things in the digital domain with heaps of digital headroom. I am not sure which road you took previously, but a simple PC can be used as your HT-PC, I think that Parametric EQ isn't heavy to run.
  8. Thanks. You have got that correct idea about my setup. I am using a Lynx Aurora N 8 channel AD/DA converter for the following reasons; - It can handle up to 16 channels via USB (No additional equipment needed) - It is expendable up to 32 channels via input modules - It has a hardware switch to output at +4dBU (pro audio) or at -10dBV (hifi) (good for level matching with different Power Amp input sensitivities) - Hifi quality DA converter (compared it with my Bryston BDA-2 ) - Good amount of output voltage - Can make recordings via USB onto SD-Card (fun to have bonus)
  9. I believe that is called fast start up, or used the be called (hybrid) hibernation, and it can be turned off. Lots of problems with this, and even bigger problems when something goes wrong during start up. System File Check sfc.exe is your new best friend in Windows 10.
  10. It has been a while since my last update, but I have been playing around with 4 subs, and I turned my 7.2 setup into a 6.4 setup by sacrificing one surround back channel and turn it into a separate sub channel. I setup my main subs for LFE duty, my old subs for Bass Management for all speaker except Left and Right, and turned my back surround speakers into two mono speakers. I did set it up in such a way so that I could switch between my 6.4 setup and 7.2 setup for comparison. The extra subs do bring extra weight to the show, but this can also be achieved by dialing up the subs by +6dB. As long as the subs have the headroom to do this I could not pick one from the other reliably. Turning the back surrounds into two mono speakers did have more impact then anticipated. With sound effects, I could pick one over the other if I really tried, but nothing that would spoil the soundtrack, or would be picked up while watching a movie, but the thing that always stood out in the 6.4 setup where the ambient sounds. They would pop out more and rather spoil the effect of the soundtrack. Since I listen at -12.5 dBFS below reference, my subs have the headroom to be dialed up a bit more, and I am not a big fan of to much bass anyway so I have reverted back to the 7.2 setup again. I am limited to 8 channels at the moment which suite my purpose just fine. The other thing that I found during testing, and only listening to sub bass, was that frequencies below 20Hz are rather unpleasant to listen to, and cause quite a bit of pressure on the ears. I am now rolling off my subs with a rather steep slope down from 17Hz, as I could not distinguish the difference between any of the tones lower than that. This has planted the idea to introduce some bass shakers in the future, but this would require an additional cross over or adding some extra channels to the DA converter.
  11. Further information: Up for sale are my 2 (small factor) subwoofers. These have a 12" down firing woofer with two 10" passive radiators on the side. Items can be split, and one of them has some more markings on the top than the other and will be cheaper priced. They both have build in EQ but you need to buy the paradigm PBK mic to be able to use it. (not included) Both can be shipped into their original packaging. Specifications can be found here https://www.paradigm.com/en/sealed/ultracube-12 Thanks to its design and use of passive radiators (also makes for great handles for carrying) these are rather small in size which makes them easy to fit into a common living room, and having 2 subs you are better equipped to deal with room modes, and you get a 6dB increase, compared to one sub. Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
  12. Have been away for a while. I don't have that particular movie, so I can't test it. I did a similar check using the analyzer with War of the Worlds, which showed the high levels, but all channels were more in sync.
  13. Not to silly a question after all. Although I don't understand the underlying problem yet, it is related to the network adapter. I have a dual port adapter setup as a bridge. Each port has a MAC address port 8A and port 8B. Mac Adress 8A gets assigned a fixed IP address, and when both ports are bridged it's received the 8A MAC address, or it is piggy backing on the port with the MAC address assigned with 8A. For some reason this bridge doesn't seem to function. When I delete the bridge everything is fine, but with the bridge in place everything falls apart. More research needed, but at least I know where to look now. Thanks for pointing the simple things.
  14. All my IP addresses are fixed and pushed out via the router. I think that when windows resets a network adapter, it actually powers off and on the device.
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