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Leinster Lad

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Everything posted by Leinster Lad

  1. Great little unit ( I have 2 ) GLWS.. Just an FYI to fellow squeezebox lovers. When the SMPS goes noisy, which it will, it interferes with the remote control ability ( noise on power supply rails interferes with the noise filter in the IR sensor, swamping the signal and causing it to not work. ) I have had good success with replacing the filter caps inside the supplied wall wart, or get yourself a decent linear supply and really notice the difference Pretty simple to just replace the pwr supply and voila! remote control will work again !
  2. Diodes are now 600 prv @ 30 amp (325 amp surge) ON semi Caps are now 7300uF 0.019 ohm ESR and 6800 mAh ripple Nichicon
  3. ? so when the original diodes and caps were sighted right here that they were probs inadequate, ie, diodes rated at 3 amps would be too small. Caps were too small and not high enough ESR. Should I not have bothered?
  4. Bigger diodes and caps fitted. Now to soak test.
  5. So did I , but my trusty fluke tells me otherwise !
  6. not quite correct, the neutral line is direct to output (not thru any diodes) The common point of the diodes in the neutral are only connected to one cap and the resistor also with a 1 meg resistor tying the negative legs of the caps together
  7. pretty sure my mud map schematic is NOT completely correct ! I'll meter it out and advise
  8. pretty sure my mud map schematic is correct not correct !!!
  9. As you can see from the pics, the top layer is really difficult to see. Cannot see where the tracks for the electros are on top of the board. As i've ordered replacement caps and diodes, i'll pop them out later. Should make the top tracks more visible.
  10. I've added the connections on the top of the board and drew in the X2 cap
  11. Looks to me that it is like 2 DC blockers, cross connected utilising different cap values.
  12. O I've mentioned the polarity of the caps a couple of times now. The two electros, near as I can tell, (which is a bit hard because of the double sided board and black lacquered tracks) , both visually and metered, are wired as per my mud map diagram. Pretty sure. One leg of the cap bank is direct to the input active trace. The other end of the cap bank is connected to neutral input leg via one bank of diodes. The X2 cap is connected the same but opposite. (to neutral input trace and then to active thru the diode bank on the active input trace)
  13. Okay, a couple of things. The two caps are wired + - + - NOT as suggested in the article as + - - +. I will have to change this. It is a bit hard to work out the exact circuit because the board is double sided and black lacquered, making it really hard to see the tracks. So, I've bitten the bullet and ordered a couple of low ESR caps and some suitable diodes. 8 x https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-RHRG3060 2 x https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UXY1V732MHW The rest of my board is for filteri
  14. Here is my circuit as far as I can tell ?
  15. In the DC blocker that I have , the diodes are in parallel pairs, (there are 8 in total) so that should be a bit better. Also looks like the caps are series positive to negative ( + - + - ) instead of the recommended +--+
  16. R48 ? cannot see that one on the schematic ! (eti477) Are you talking R2 (47K) on the input or R11 (47K) on the collector or Q13 ? Or is it R19 (22K) on the NFB into the base of Q2 ?
  17. Not really any progress on this. Stuff just seems to be always getting in the way ( not really a good enough excuse, i know ! ) I really need to prioritise these projects and just get on with it.
  18. Hey Guys, great advice as always ! The unit that I got has the following... The two electros are 2200uF @ 50V , 105 degrees The diodes are BYW76V The first yellow cap is 0.47uF 275VAC X2 MKP The big blue cap is 1uF @400V MKP The red MOV's(?) are P275L20 I'll connect it up to a reasonable load (safely) and give it a bit of a soak test to see if anything gets hot. Standby.....
  19. Not at home ATM. Will get back to you tomorrow
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