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Somethingclever

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About Somethingclever

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    Sydney
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  1. Hi Brett, the amp is sold. Thanks for your interest.
  2. Item: Opoint OP-150 Integrated Amplifier Location: Sydney Price: 200 Reason for selling: No time to try to upgrade the amp Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: I bought this a while ago off Cafad, I have been trying to find the time to complete some upgrades, but never get around to it. Cafad said that Burson OpAmps made an improvement and I was hoping to do more than that, but just cant ever seem find the time. It isn't a bad amp, I think it goes alright and if used as a power amp the lack of remote becomes a moot point. I believe it cost about 850 landed in Australia. Product parameters: Output Power: 150W + 150W 8Ω Load Impedance: 4 ~ 16Ω Input Impedance / Sensitivity: 47k ohms / 220mV Frequency response: 10HZ - 100KHZ SNR: 105DB Weight: 12kg Pack weight: 13.6kg Inpute voltage: 220/230v available When you google Opoint OP-150 this comes up, it looks exactly like this so I took the above specs from there... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32356358294.html This is the thread where @Cafad was selling it... This is the thread where @Cafad made it hard for him to sell...
  3. Item: Opoint OP-150 Integrated Amplifier Location: Sydney Trade for : $250 Reason for selling: No time to try to upgrade the amp Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: I bought this a while ago off Cafad, I have been trying to find the time to complete some upgrades, but never get around to it. Cafad said that Burson OpAmps made an improvement and I was hoping to do more than that, but just cant ever seem find the time. It isn't a bad amp, I think it goes alright and if used as a power amp the lack of remote becomes a moot point. Product parameters: Output Power: 150W + 150W 8Ω Load Impedance: 4 ~ 16Ω Input Impedance / Sensitivity: 47k ohms / 220mV Frequency response: 10HZ - 100KHZ SNR: 105DB Weight: 12kg Pack weight: 13.6kg Inpute voltage: 220/230v available When you google Opoint OP-150 this comes up, it looks exactly like this so I took the above specs from there... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32356358294.html This is the thread where @Cafad was selling it... This is the thread where @Cafad made it hard for him to sell... No takers for a trade, so will try a straight sale.
  4. Well there you go. My understanding of the SNR was totally wrong. Barking up the wrong tree! Thanks guys. I am actually trying to get a better understanding of what the specs of amplifiers mean. I was reading another topic and @davewantsmoore mentioned the ratio of amps between classes is 1:1 - 1 amp = 1 amp, therefore 30watts equal 30 watts. So was just trying to work out how they are talking up the low amount of watts on this amp as being more than the sum of the watts. So really just bull$hit. I know people often talk about the 'current' but I guess i don't understand the measurement of that, why is there no 'current' measurement stated. If it has an effect, therefore that affect should be measureable some how. My small understanding of current from what I read is that the high the watts ratio moving down the impedidance is a display of good current. Like on the two specs... 2 x 80 watt rms / 2 channel driven (8 ohm) • 2 x 110 watt rms / 2 channel driven (4 ohm) Power (8Ω): 35W/channel Power (4Ω): 60W/channel The second lot of specs have greater 'current'? Is that a correct assumption? Can greater current exist without the watts? Can you have a 50watt amp ( 8 ohm ) into 150 watt ( 4 ohm ), I often really only ever see a double. Can you triple? Or are the physics impossible?
  5. So I was reading these specs and tried to work out how they watts per channel could be more than what is stated. If they are wouldn't they just say 45 watts? I knew my amp had a lower SNR when I looked at the specs, so was just trying to work out how much the second amp makers are bull$hitting, if in so they are.
  6. @Sir Sanders Zingmore Here is the direct quote... Technically speaking, the second amp defies conventional measurement - mere specifications can be wildly misleading here. Consider output power: the second amp is conservatively rated at 35 watts per channel into 8 ohms. While this represents a humble enough watt/cost ratio, here 35 watts don't exactly equal 35 watts, since the second amps non-DC-coupled design behaves rather more akin to valve amplifiers of similar rating. With this kind of power on board, better valve amps are capable of astonishing dynamic authority, and we're more than satisfied that the second amp adheres to this paradigm and then some.
  7. Looking at the specs of the below amps, which would play better / great dynamic range... I know you cant tell from specs but as the SNR is listed as higher on the second lot, does that therefore mean louder? If so how can it go louder with less watts?? Am I missing something??? 2 x 80 watt rms / 2 channel driven (8 ohm) • 2 x 110 watt rms / 2 channel driven (4 ohm) • 10 ÷ 80000 Hz +/- 0.5 dB frequency response • 20 ÷ 20000 Hz +/- 0.5 dB (Phono) • 0.006% THD @ 1 KHz (80% nominal power) • > 92 dB A weighted signal noise ratio Or Frequency response: 10Hz – 60kHz (<0.1% THD) Input impedance: 10kΩ Input sensitivity: 500mV Power (8Ω): 35W/channel Power (4Ω): 60W/channel SNR (A-weighted): 96dB They are both solid state, but the bottom ones blurb they say something like the watts are like tube whats and are misleading as they are more powerful.
  8. Ha, sometimes the answer is so obvious you cant see it! Will have a bit of a listen this afternoon using optical out of CD player direct to amp.
  9. The Dac is in the Indiana Line Puro 800 Intergrated Amp. Was more just wondering about how the signal is affected really.
  10. Hi All, Was wondering how much degradation occurs when I am using my Sony TV as my sound hub? I have the HDMI from my Fetch Box going to the TV, also HDMI from the Blu Ray player and the HDMI from my Chromecast. The Optical output of the TV then goes to the DAC. This is the set up my wife prefers - one controller to rule them all! Would anyone know what doing the above would be doing to the signal. I am guessing adding jitter and clock issues, but in terms of distortion in general? I have to be honest, it sounds pretty good - fine by me, so I am happy, but would just like to know how much I am disturbing the signal. Then if it is a bit, is there are DAC that can magically fix the signal to how it was originally? Or is that just a dream? Thanks, Adam
  11. Didnt check the RRP, but went cheaper than I thought.
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