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About mloutfie

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  1. Parts for sl-10 doesn't exist for a long time except for maybe the tonearm belt. Try your luck first with recapping and see if it powers up first
  2. Home made? You Sir have some skills
  3. Awesome looking sp10mk2 but surely it cost much more than $1000
  4. Or if you want to go budget get the project speed box standard model from the us. You could get one under $200
  5. I just remembered a speed box that willmatch this. I totally forgot about project speed box ds it has a DC input from a plug pack and the speed box outputs 16v 50hz. Its not cheap but the same time it would be an upgrade over the standard 16v stepdown the sol comes with
  6. Power wise the input to it is actually 16vac so you can get a transformer easily but still the issue would be getting the right pulley so you get the speed
  7. If you put a record over the platter it won't look that good. the platter is actually smaller than a record
  8. Been wanting to have this for a long time.
  9. Ah..... the Mildura tonearm maker. I've seen his ads for a few years now. His tooling looks rough also for this one it's a straight arm using a glued on headshell normally put on an s or J tonearm. Dont really know what's the logic there. Not to mention it looks like a generic$10 headshell
  10. I've done calculation on this multiple times. Unless you find the parts used it's much cheaper to get a complete good turntable and strip for parts and make a custom turntable.
  11. Is the tonearm headshell removable? Cos it's quite tricky to do if it is. If it's me doing it I will heat up the tag and use solder sucker to remove all the solder rather than putting a new tag. Just an idea
  12. That is interesting design. Haven't seen one like that
  13. Pivot tonearm has 2 bearing type. Horizontal and vertical. Vertical bearing handles movement up and down. Vertical bearing point is the centre position of that bearing.
  14. Underslung counter weight does make a difference even on a pivot arm in my experience. But that saying there is no issue with the end stub being level as the arm as long the counter weight has a low centre of gravity. I heard what is more important however is the vertical bearing point to be as close to level to the stylus tip as possible. Had that discussion with Mark Dohmann
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