Jump to content

bjc

Members
  • Content Count

    972
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

117 Good

About bjc

  • Rank
    500+ Post Club
  • Birthday 11/03/1978

Profile Fields

  • Location
    Townsville, Qld
  • Country
    Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

3,099 profile views
  1. bjc

    DIY audio: what are you building?

    Why? Why 30hz and why 92db efficiency? Are you using very low amp power? Build a large ported box if need be but in a sealed box your sub will play below 30hz unless you're trying to reach a certain output level in room and pushing it past its limits? In any case it's easier to add more subs, go a large ported/TH box or buy a larger sub... Any sub will play below its fs, how loud you want it to be before max excursion is up to you but as I said it's easier to add more subs, go large ported or larger subs instead of trying to find a low fs high sensitivity subwoofer. EQ is your friend also.... That's my take on it anyway!
  2. bjc

    DIY audio: what are you building?

    A lot of car stereo subs have low fs but generally aren't over 88-90db sensitivity. What they are though is cheap which would allow for two or even three subs versus one from the madisound link! Designed for small cab usage you could do a dual opposed setup for quids....
  3. Good stuff, it looks like a giant bread knife! I had a blunt hand saw that I hit with the bench grinder for fun one day which turned out to be stupidly sharp. I rounded the teeth then just put as fine an edge as possible on it. Used it for hacking the palm trees and pumpkins we get every year. I keep the machete under the bed though!
  4. You got a storming bargain there mate! I would have bought the lens if I didn't already have the CM-5E!
  5. Depending on your circular saw size (185mm etc) you could buy cutting discs for grinders or a cheap tile saw blade. Buy a shim ring kit also as the centre fitting will probably be a different size. Even if it is unbalanced they generally do not detonate themselves unless you hit a hard surface to quick but even then they have a mesh fibre in the discs so it's not overly dangerous.
  6. Will you ship items at all@scottrichardson? Interested in the PSA speakers if you have original cartons for them? Someone buy that A-Lens also ffs!!!
  7. If you can I'd move your existing subs to nearfield first. Preferably directly behind (within 1mt) you but if not then either side of your seating position. I'm not sure if your subs are ported or sealed but nearfield imo is where it's at as they don't need to work half as hard for impact and the room is almost taken out of the equation. Corner loading is nice but I feel it bloats the sound (I've never measured it though) which is why I used 4 subs with 2 front and 2 rear. These were all sealed 12's with passive radiators. I've got my 4 18's now (2 more arriving soon) but they are still in the box until I build my HT again! Suppose I should pull my finger out...
  8. You need to seal a room to pressurise it. Your room is massive with a kitchen also so I doubt it's possible unless you buy bulk 18 inch subs.
  9. I'd be putting the dimensions in a room mode calculator and also measuring the room with mic and REW etc then go from there. It could be as simple as seating position....he definitely has gotten used to the amplified low frequency from the concrete bunker!
  10. This is worth it for the tweeter alone seeing as Aaron have closed up shop! I use a pair as surround backs but are from the 90's not like this latest version! GLWTS....
  11. Does this play H.265 10bit in 4k? Can anyone confirm?
  12. Bargain! I can hear Mark's heart breaking from here.....
  13. Close up pictures of actual drivers would help also. I know they look premium but anyone can finger a diaphragm! Lol
  14. Here you go Mate - https://www.minidsp.com/applications/acoustic-measurements/umik-1-setup-with-rew Read it as it's really not that hard to set up and run sweeps....refer to the AVS lik on the 6kDSP in regards to importing or copying filters As for clip lights I wouldn't worry with the behringer as long as they aren't solid lit on every scene. You are using subwoofers after all and not mid or tweeters. I'll find the link later with Behringers TRUE power rating. Cheers, Brett
  15. Oldie but a goodie here - http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/integration/index.htm Pretty sure the page owner may be a member or in the past? That website is where I got a heap of the ideas and the gain matching (bump box) fix etc..... Bump box info I was talking about - http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/cleanbox/cleanbox.htm
×