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About charlie_bird

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  • Birthday 20/11/1962

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  1. I’m near Windsor and am happy to help. I take it you also need packed for shipping?
  2. you could look out for a direct drive Japanese import. Yamaha, Kenwood etc They show up here in the classifieds once in a while
  3. To make energy efficient should I get very low wattage psu and underclock the cpu? I went with a core I3, a mini ITX MB with lots of sata ports, 3 x 2TB green HDD, SSD for the OS, cheap fan controller to turn the case fans right down, and a nice small case (fractal design node 304). I used a 550 watt PS but you can choose on energy efficiency and price. Its been on 24X7 for about 9 years now no issues. I didn't under clock the CPU
  4. i use open media vault. I built a small energy efficient Intel PC a few years back and use OMV. It has a web based point and click front ending the linux OS and all the plugs ins. Still a bit fiddly with upgrades needing command line but a great free program
  5. I have the software and have used it successfully. It does take a great deal of time. The website has the tutorials, but the help pages within the app are more useful and indicate what numbers you should strive for (and I think the rough order to adjust). For some measurements the numbers are static, but of others like azimuth my numbers changed as the track played. I didn't really get which numbers to use as the track played and generally chose the highest / end of the track. Its important to remember that VTA, VTF, anti skate and azimuth are all intertwined so if you are struggling with a particular measurement one of the other parameters may be out of whack. I've never used setup software like this before and from a standing start I literally spent 4 days mucking around with it. I got a noticeable improvement in sound and I'm convinced my existing setup was well out of whack. I think its a good product but don't expect a clean cut / black & white result. I found it was more like tuning the various parameters to get best average of all settings btw you also need to keep an eye on the clipping LED on the pre-amp. Different tracks seem to be recorded at different levels so play it through and set the level before trying a measurement
  6. Further update on my CD player journey... Whilst the Rotel is a good player, I wasn't really diggin' the sound. It was especially apparent when I took the time to connect it in my main 2 channel system. I ended up swapping out the the newly acquired for Rotel for the Sony CDP-XA3ES player that was advertised in the classifieds and that was a major improvement. The Sony is definitely a keeper.
  7. Thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions. I splashed out $160 on a very tidy Rotel RCD-965BX today. Sounds ok, reads CDs lightning fast. Job done for now..
  8. Luc $500 is the tops. I'm looking to replace the CD player in the bedroom system (although the CD gets more use than in the main system). Your point is exactly the crux of my question, there a lots of 200-300 vintage players out there, but will they need need parts now or in the near future? Are the parts available and is it an easy fix? Is it better to spend $300 on something modern with a 24 month warranty?
  9. Thanks I'm familiar with that one. I've got one connected in my "analogue" setup in the living room. I play it when I'm doing the dishes or cooking dinner and can't rush back to change the record. I'd be happy for a second unit if it came up
  10. That's the kinda straightforward advice i'm looking for. thanks
  11. Neither of those seem like they are well south of the $500 mark
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