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About BioBrian

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  • Birthday 06/11/1954

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  1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtO32rIu8HU
  2. I completely get it. And "fixed" doesn't represent my journey well. 3.3 is too loud, 3.5 too soft. Something between is therefore needed. Whatever you do to calculate the desired resistance between those 2 numbers, the outcome (can be measured, but) must be tested by listening. Anything else is nonsense. If the resistance actually measures what your calculations assume, then fine: proceed with confidence. One of the things I was suggesting, is that if you make up your new cluster, the result is not necessarily what you calculated, due to variances in build-tolerances. You still need to be sure that you're hearing what you calculated to be correct. As Ittaku, myself, and others have pointed out, changing a resistor value can change EVERYTHING, as all the components of a XO are inter-related. Placement of resistors also are critical - before and/or after the capacitor, or in combination with a shunt resistor (L-pad). Changing a tweeter attenuation resistor is not necessarily just changing the loudness of the tweeter. It can change the sound colour/balance in other ways, which may, as Ittaku pointed out, be due to changes in phase. Drivers respond differently at differing input levels, so in reference to my "rob Peter to pay Paul" quote, the woofer itself might be giving you a different spectrum with a subtle change in tweeter attenuation. But the issue remains: 5 or 6 figures in a resistor value cannot be heard. Surely the first 2, 3, or 4.
  3. Leo, I think we are all trying to point out something you're not getting. This is a matter of resistance to 2 figures, or as Dave rounded to (0.04 Ohms), to 3 figures. All the other numbers following this are completely irrelevant. If you could measure to 6 figures (you can't), or could expect those readings to stay constant (you can't - what if an oestrus-afflicted Panda breathed on your XO from 4.756697 paces?), then according to your statements, it would then be all wrong. Please don't get me wrong - I like your methodology. If your tweeter sounds too strident/bright, then add to the series resistance. Take a guess, try it, and settle on what sounds right. I agree that this can take days/weeks, going over a large range of recordings that you know well. One issue that has caused a bit of knicker-twisting is that you have repeatedly inferred that you are actually using resistance of these multi-figure numbers, and not told us that they are only calculated values. Each resistor has a tolerance of 1-5 %, so a cluster (depending on what brand, etc, which you haven't shared) could be many percentage out. Combined with probably greater build-tolerances in your caps and coils, any faith in calculated values has to be taken for what it is - a bit of a mess. Testing is going to be important, even if only to get one speaker to even vaguely match the other. (Listening tests would otherwise involve weeks of swapping left and right speakers, as well as all the other variables). "Matching drivers" is a very small part of the picture, and comes with its own approximations.
  4. How do you know your resistor cluster "is" 3.41339 Ohms?
  5. BioBrian

    SOLD: FS: Uptone Audio JS-2 LPS

    Why is it set for 115V?
  6. I recently changed some Jantzen Superior-Z caps to their (superior!) Alumen caps, and found the purer sound of the tweeter to need more volume. I changed the attenuation resistors to 0.2 Ohms lower, and got a better balance. This indicates to me that any artifacts/distortions of a lesser capacitor relates to diminished tolerance to the listener, but that's a separate issue. The 0.2 Ohms difference (just as a series resistor, not an L-pad) made a clearly audible difference for me. Of course, if you rob Peter you pay Paul; in this case there is less energy going to the mid and woofer, so the change can be in sound colour, not just tweeter volume. My point being that in this, and many other cases, I have heard a difference in attenuation changes as small as 0.2 to 0.5 Ohms. Smaller than that, I would be exercising my corrugator supercilii muscles.
  7. Oh good. It's the wording in my quote that disturbed me. I've been following the other thread - quite challenging and mysterious! OT, but I'd love to know if you've found a great Beethoven 9 slow movement (especially in HiRes). Most of the recordings I've heard since Solti's have the unfortunately common modern phenomenon of sounding like ring-tones; like the conductor looking at his watch, hoping it'll be over soon.
  8. Oh dear. That's different from my definition of HiRes. I have a big problem of marketeers selling us "HiRes" that's simply upscaled LoRes. Perhaps in this context it's different, but I think we need to be cautious with terminology.
  9. I'm curious about how you decided upon cap and coil values, and why a 2nd order filter couldn't work for your mid (did you try a series cap/resistor across the low-pass coil?). Personally, I would have chosen a larger mid, for possibly more comfortable crossover to both the woofer and tweeter. If you feel like sharing, I'd love to hear more about your design process. Sure others would, too. Sorry to hear about the distractive year - know the feeling well! (I also had father issues). Thanks for your fascinating update.
  10. BioBrian

    How to download HIRES

    I find eclassical.com very reliable. They have higher-res versions of some stuff that Presto sell. I've also had some quite poor recordings from Presto. They are impressively verbose re performances/artists, but don't talk about recording quality. eclassical tell you if the original sample rate is eg 96 kHz. They are generally cheaper too. As usual, the information given on these websites is inadequate to make 100% satisfactory results, but experiments are not that expensive, and can be miraculous. (I also can't see a reason why a VPN is necessary for buying music downloads).
  11. If you live here, you'd be saying 3 other seasons every day. (Today it was filthy hot, like the last few days, but I had to bring the washing in twice, due to rain. Very trying!) Jokes aside, I have been writing down max and min temps, inside and outside, for about 20 years, so I'm pretty confident in the sense of keeping the fridge outside. If you read carefully, I think I covered the warm day thing as well. One little bummer is that the extreme winds can blow the fridge door open - can you believe that? So besides the house shuddering and promising to dump me in the garden, there's this plaintive little beep-beep-beep thing happening in the quiet moments, which eventually looms in the deeply-asleep mind that the frig door's been open more than 1 minute (but it doesn't tell you of the damage to the hinges, and the contents of the door strewn all over). (Gaffer tape helps).
  12. Ha Ha, O ye of the 'land of contentment'! 'they' obviously don't collect data from my place, south of Mt Wellington in southern Tas. My winter days often don't get above 8 degrees max, and the fridge is set for 5 in the beer, wine, (oh yes, and food) part. I also run 2 chest freezers, so I don't use the freezer part down below - it stays on the max setting, and the door never gets opened to let cold air fall out. So having the fridge outdoors is a very cost-saving thing. Inside is mostly 10-15 deg or so warmer than out, at least overnight in winter. In summer, any breeze means it's still often cooler outside. But that's just background, OT, as they say. My only excuse for joining this conversation is annoyance with the noise of this LG fancy-pants inverter thing. The rep told me (so it must be true) that inverter frigs don't have the on/off big switchy noise/big temp swings of the old thermostat jobs, but run at low #*%*^&^%% (apply own word if understood) all the time, therefore better. Hogwash to me - it makes more noise than my old one. Especially when it sets up a resonance with the nearby wall - so I have to wrestle it a few mm, to break the beat frequency. Is it a lemon? I don't know. I do think we've been desensitized to so many noise pollutants that our outrage is unhealthily suppressed. (Think of that outrageous fizz thing that truck/bus brakes do, right next to you in the street).
  13. A gas burner would potentially kill you if used indoors. At least you'd smell leaking ammonia.
  14. I have to disagree. I bought an LG inverter frig, and it's quite noisy. At the moment it's a grumble and whirr from fan noise; sometimes it sounds like a truck on a distant highway. Very disappointed. It's outside at the moment (under verandah - shouldn't need to work hard), but will not be coming anywhere near my sound stuff, if I can help it.