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  1. Slight correction. These Philips PCC88 were made for Philips by Ei in Niš Yugoslavia (Serbia) around 1964. Excellent tubes. Typically very low noise and long lasting. Same tubes as supplied in Conrad Johnson GAT 2
  2. I should clarify what I mean here. An example way to use multiple switches for your scenario with more than two amplifiers: That is probably as clear as mud. Anyway - so you mentioned that you are ok only switching the positive terminals and have all the negative terminals connected together so that is what I am basing this on. So from the above diagram, each amplifier gets its own DPDT switch (could also just be a dual pole on-off switch for each) and setting "1" of the switch connects that amp to the speakers, and you would set all the other switches to setting 2 to disconnect those amps from the speakers (nothing is connected to the setting 2 terminals). The change procedure would be to change all switches to setting 2 to disconnect all amps, then set the appropriate switch to setting 1 connect one amp to the speakers. If you want more amplifiers - just add more switches. Not saying this is a great solution, just mentioning it as another option as you asked for "Any thought's on anything else??" Other notes on this set up: There is the danger that you (or someone in your family) could connect more than one amplifier to the speakers which is not a good idea. This could easily be modified to switch the negative amplifier terminal too in case that was needed for the amplifiers you are using. If you are using amplifiers with output transformers (eg tube amplifiers), to protect the transformers you could add something like high wattage 16 ohm resistors from each setting 2 switch terminal to the corresponding amplifier channel's negative terminal, or just turn those amplifiers off before disconnecting them with the switch.
  3. High Bruce, One possibility is that you could use multiple switches rather than a single complex switch. This would allow you to use high current switches (5 amps current seems a little low to me - though one of my amplifiers is very high power) and give you more flexibility. More hassle to operate than a single switch though. For a while I was using 3 x dual pole on-off-on switches rated at 10 amps to switch between 2 amplifiers and 2 speakers and one passive subwoofer. This allowed for quite a bit of flexibility as I could have various scenarios such as: - amplifier A drives the speakers - amplifier B drives the speakers - amplifier A drives the speakers and amplifier B drives the passive sub - amplifier A drives the left channel speaker and amplifier B drives the right channel speaker - or visa versa. - speakers disconnected The switches (Jaycar ST0576) were not very good however and usually made poor contact initially - needed to drive some volume through them to break through the oxide and get them to conduct properly. I think this is basically an issue due to using high current power switches with an audio signal rather than constant power - and also the switches were junk. Also a bit inconvenient having to go up and change the configuration. I was never really happy with this solution. I was considering swapping to high current knife switches, which are huge but I expect they would have better initial contact, eg https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1x-32A-Four-Pole-Double-Throw-Knife-Disconnect-Switch/302785680406 You mentioned not wanting something big though so that probably rules that out. I ended up developing a solution using 30 amp relay modules controlled by an arduino clone (a cheap microcontroller device that is easy to use) and it is awesome and very convenient and has a lot more features. It could also be changed to have control of more amplifiers and speakers by adding more relays. Also I can change the setup using an infrared remote control or buttons on the front, and it also sends commands to one of the amplifiers via RS232 to change settings to suit the selected scenario. No issues with poor contact noticed so far. Not passive though so I get the impression this is not what you are after, so I wont bother going into more detail. It is seriously awesome though. Cheers, Anthony
  4. A similar deal is on again https://pages2.ebay.com.au/Buyer_coupons/pupgrade? Offer Period. This offer commences at 10.00 (AEDT) on 19 February and ends at 23.59 (AEDT) on 25 February 2019 (“Offer Period”). Conditions. The offer entitles you to 20% off the purchase price (excluding postage costs) on items at Selected Sellers, up to a maximum discount of $300 per transaction. Addicted to Audio, Life Style Store, NAPF, and others
  5. I downloaded the latest bluos firmware C390_usb_stick_3.2.10.zip for c390dd from nad and it now includes three files rather than two: c390.img c390v2.img c390v3.img That c390v3.img is new. So I expect if they have not already, Nad will soon announce a new bluos v3 MDC card that supports apple airplay 2 - like the new blusound node 2i does. So if you are thinking of buying a blueos MDC card you might want to hold off for a bit.
  6. You using linux? Nice. That release notes link is wrong, found the right one on the Bluos module page. No install instructions though: https://nadelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/BluOS_ReleaseNotes_3.0_Public.pdf I would be surprised if you don't already have a recent Bluos firmware on your MDC card if not the latest. While you have the option to update the Bluos MDC module with one of those .img files, the Bluos MDC module can also be updated over the Internet which is easier. The BluOS Controller application or app will bug you every time you start it if there is a new firmware out that you have not installed (if the controller app is new enough). It gives you the option to upgrade the Bluos firmware via the app, or delay the update. Oh - and if you are still using the old NAD branded Bluos controller app - it is no longer being updated - we are meant to use the Bluesound Bluos Controller app now. See here: https://www.bluesound.com/downloads/ One way to check which Bluos firmware you are on: - select the Bluos input on your C390DD - press right arrow on the front of the C390DD to bring up the Bluos menu - press right arrow on the front of the C390DD to select "Bluos Info" - it will show you the Bluos version, eg Bluos v2.14.7 (that is what I am on - I stopped updating) I would expect anything from v2.2.5 or newer would support MQA If you don't have access to a recent BluOS Controller application or app, then you can upgrade from the C390DD. Enable the "BluOS SETUP MENU" using the instructions starting on page 9 of the C390DD user manual: https://nadelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/C390DD-Direct-Digital-Integrated-Amplifier-English-Manual.pdf Then you can continue to follow the instructions to upgrade either over the Internet or using a USB thumb drive. If you choose to use the .img files, some extra notes: - since you have the older card you need c390.img - you need a USB thumb drive formatted as fat32 I think, with nothing else on it. - copy the c390.img to it. Nothing else should be on there - eject and remove it safely from your computer - follow the rest of the Bluos upgrade instructions in the C390DD user manual Note however that if you had to do all this because you can't use a recent BluOS Controller application or app, then if you upgrade Bluos firmware then you might not be able to control it with an old controller. You might be able to - not really sure. One other thing that might help later on: "The MQA logo shown in the BluOS app indicates that the unit is decoding and playing an MQA stream or file" from https://nadelectronics.com/product/mdc-bluos-2/ Anthony
  7. I don't have an answer on behalf of Tommo21 so that is still for him to answer (though I thought his comment was pretty clear), however a separate comment. MQA is listed as supported on both Bluos MDC modules. Have you heard or read something that specifically says the old Bluos MDC card does not support MQA? Perhaps you just need to ensure you have a recent Bluos firmware for your card and give it a try? A search for MQA at NAD lists both cards "MDC Bluos 2" and "MDC Bluos": https://nadelectronics.com/?s=mqa Both products list MQA capability in their product pages: https://nadelectronics.com/product/mdc-bluos-2/ https://nadelectronics.com/product/dd-bluos/ MQA has apparently been available on "C 390DD (equipped with the DD BluOS MDC module)" since "BluOS firmware, version 2.2.5" from around September 2016: https://blog.nadelectronics.com/mqa-now-available-on-nad-2f8d4e3557ef I have no interest in MQA but hope it works for you on your existing card. Good luck.
  8. 10% off ebay site wide with code PUMPKIN ends tonight. Terms: https://pages2.ebay.com.au/Buyer_coupons/pumpkin
  9. Some good and interesting things about this pre. - Double-sided gold-plated circuit boards - Output Impedance: 15 Ohms non-reactive unbalanced 30 Ohms non-reactive balanced I expect that output impedance is low enough to even be able to properly drive some of the difficult to drive ME power amplifiers. https://web.archive.org/web/20020809023714/http://www.coda-continuum.com:80/product/index.html https://web.archive.org/web/20020513150716fw_/http://www.coda-continuum.com:80/product/02specs.html https://web.archive.org/web/20050311065422/http://www.coda-continuum.com:80/manuals/02manual.pdf https://web.archive.org/web/20030130113847fw_/http://www.coda-continuum.com:80/product/02photo.html
  10. 10% off site wide on ebay coupon code: PAYGRADE terms: https://pages2.ebay.com.au/Buyer_coupons/paygrade these usually expire quite quickly
  11. Also - keep an eye out for an ebay birthday sale tomorrow 21/9. Last year they had 18% off aparently: https://www.themorningbulletin.com.au/news/ebay-puts-18-discount-across-entire-site-18th-birt/3226358/
  12. ebay 10% off today only. coupon: POINTY terms are not showing up for me in the usual url https://pages2.ebay.com.au/Buyer_coupons/pointy but I tried the code and it seems to work. 10% off the purchase price on all eligible items (except exclusions listed) when you spend $75 or more in one transaction, up to a maximum discount of $300. A maximum of two transactions applies. Multiple items may be purchased in one transaction (10 items maximum). Listed Exclusions: All items listed in the following categories: Real Estate (10542), Coins (11116), Services (316), Cars, Bikes, Boats (9800), Tickets, Travel (11730), Other Lots More Items (88433) and Gift Cards (184609); and All items sold by the following sellers: (1) Officeworks; (2) Fantastic Furniture; and (3) Target.
  13. ebay 10% off most items with coupon: PLENTY10 max discount $100 per transaction. $50 min. expires 16/10/2018. other terms: https://pages2.ebay.com.au/Buyer_coupons/plenty10
  14. Very interesting post over at diyaudio.com: NAD C390DD (C 390DD) does not power on failure with fix http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/326613-nad-c390dd-390dd-power-failure-fix.html Ergo wrote: "I was repairing a NAD C390DD for my friend and tough I'll post the solution here too as this type of problem is likely to happen on other units and I did not find it documented in web prior to this. Symptoms before fix A) When powering on from back panel power button the orange 'sleep LED' comes on B ) After push of the on/standby button on front panel 1 click of a relay can be heard and the orange led turns blue ... display will so no sign of life. Not other relay clicks follow. The unit does not switch on. Problem appeared to be in secondary PSU which supplies the +5V and after switch on the +12.5V. The +12.5V power line showed only +4.5V after the step B. So clearly something wrong. Anyhow, longish troubleshooting later it turned out to be a fault in following capacitors." Ergo replaced capacitors C204 C205 C210 C211 (capacitor numbers marked on the board and in the service manual) from PSU-B to fix the issue. So great news that this issue can be fixed just by replacing capacitors, and Ergo did all the troubleshooting to find out which ones. The green capacitor that is swollen on my PSU-B is a different capacitor C212 so that is one extra one I would need to get replaced if I ever get this "power on" issue. I expect it is only a matter of time. Of course the other option is getting the distributor to replace the faulty PSU-B and maybe PSU-A assemblies. I think someone in this thread said they are $500 each in Australia plus labour out of warranty, so could get quite expensive going down that route. Might be fine for some people. Might be much cheaper in other countries. Anthony
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