tesla13BMW

Ok. Let me know. I'd collect it at in Brisbane and my niece would be driving back late next week.

Would it be any use getting it to around Shepperton area?

I almost got caught out with a fake Brisbane HiFi webpage - 20k worth of LP12 upgrades for 8k! If it sounds too good to be true .......... I got hold of Brisbane HiFi a month ago and they know about it and have tried to get it taken down. But said "it is more difficult than it should be". It is still up now.

@Warren Jones I'm not looking to change tables, but, to improve what I have. I like the LP12 and improvements are available, be it at a substantial price. I want to keep moving towards the best of an LP12 and not the best turn table (no one will ever agree on that one anyway). I still swap over to my mid 80's pre cirkus, valhalla, Ittok to remind me a modern LP12 is not the creature of yesteryear.

@vivianbl glad to hear you feel the rest of the system shouldn't be holding the LP12 back. I have decided to pursue an ARadikal and Keel. If the deal falls through I'll probably just do an ARadikal and stick with the Kore for a while.

@Tasebass thank you very much for your views. I am familiar with a top flight LP12 having payed a visit to Linn when I was in Scotland and to Cymbiosis. Admittedly that was pre Karousal, but, certainly showed what a Radikal and Keel had to offer. From this statement I assume you do not use the Audio Silente Silicon Mushrooms. Have you tried / heard them? I think their benefit can only occur with a quite motor and drive system that has less of a requirement for the motor to be isolated from the bearing/arm etc. Cheers, Chris.

@Hydrology thank you. But, is my current source already being held back.....or will source improvements always shine through? I've always heard improvements to date. And when I listen to my pre circus, spot welded sub chassis and flimsy screw arm board, Valhalla, Ittok LVII it is easy to hear my almost Akurate LP12 is far better. Soooo, would you be saying Radikal 1 and Keel or Lingo4 and keep the Kore and find Ekos SE? Or Radikal 1 2nd hand and 2k GBP to upgrade it to Radikal 2? Orrrrr follow the Linn inside out philosophy and only once the most inside is as good as can be move outwards? That'd leave me at Radikal 2 Klimax? Then Keel once I grow my kidney back. Where's that Crosley salesman to take this issue away?

Hmm, Origin Power into an Origin Live table and arm - might be too much.

Don't hold back! Hold on, didn't you build a LP12 to carry the arm you wanted cause there was no other table good enough? Next you'll be saying vinyl is a PoS. But, thanks for your thoughts.

As per title I am considering further upgrades to my LP12 and would welcome peoples views in consideration of what the LP12 is, what I'm looking to upgrade and what the rest of the system is.. Currently - 5 bolt corner braced plinth, Tangerine Audio Karmen top plate, Karousel Bearing and inner platter, mober SS outer platter, Kore sub chassis, Lingo 2, Ekos 1 with Akiva, Linn T Kable, Trampoline 2. I am in the process of getting AS Silicon mushrooms to try. Following Linns "inside out" philosophy I am looking to get a Keel and Radikal 1 (Akurate). Yes I do have a budget! Hence 2nd hand, Rad1 and not 2 and not Klimax. So I'm talking 4000 GBP for the Keel and Radikal 1. Now the dilemma - will the rest of my system allow the upgrades to shine through? Remainder of system - DIY cinemag 1254 SUT, DIY Tubes4hifi VTA PH16 phono stage, Stereo Coffee pre amp, 4 refurbished QuadII power amps and stacked ESL57's. Super tweeters and subs also. Cables are DIY solid silver in teflon 4 core braid for signal and Kimber 8TC speaker cables. I look forward to peoples suggestions.

Bob Marley - Uprising It brings back memories of why I can't remember.

I am glad it worked out for you.

I have my four QuadII power amps "behind" my speakers / other stuff and use remote controlled power points (1 for each power amp). You can turn them on/off individually or turn all of them on/off. You can get remote and one power point https://www.jaycar.com.au/remote-controlled-mains-outlet-controller/p/MS6148?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8peRyILegAMVLByDAx0UdgExEAQYASABEgIWgPD_BwE or remote and 3 power points https://www.jaycar.com.au/remote-controlled-3-outlet-mains-controller/p/MS6147?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8peRyILegAMVLByDAx0UdgExEAQYAiABEgLO_vD_BwE

Double plus - Iconic. Quad ESL57's and Quad II's. Then of course my Linn LP12 is certainly an icon as well.

Here is my DIY list for this year and probably the next couple :-) Finish programming the SG4 Turn Table speed controller. Build the LP12 using the speed controller and Roksan Nima tone arm. Build Pass Pearl 2. House the Pass Pearl 2, BA2018 and Stereo Coffee in one enclosure. Build the power supply and put in seperate enclosure for the above. Build Pass F5. Build Pass F5Turbo. Finish ESLIV speakers from ER Audio. Build 2 x 3 channel amps from Elliott Sound Products for below. Build open baffle speakers (have 8" full range and planar tweeters, need the base drivers still) Refurbish Orpheus Silex turn table. Learn to rebuild ESL57 speakers (have 3 spare pairs plus my stacked pair). Refurbish 4 QuadII amplifiers. My other four have been rebuild and drive my Stacked ESL57's. Address motor noise on CJ Walker Turn Table. Fit Karousel bearing to #1 LP12 turn table. Springs and grommets for #2 LP12 turn table. Build solid silver in teflon 8 core braid speaker cables (polish the silver, thread up oversize teflon tube). Holy cow Batman - I should never of written them down! BUT, when winter gets here (too hot in the shed in summer) - put back together BMW K100RS after spline lube and rear main seal replacement. Then get the other BMW K100RS onto the bike hoist to repair main output shaft rivets. Also full clean including buffing all aluminium parts and stainless fittings throughout.

Mine to at the moment, Andy. But, I'm not going to let the little thing filled with 1's and 0's beat me

Well stylus drag has to be real, but, is stylus drag a "real" problem. There's a fair bit of momentum with the LP12 plattter. Once I get a tacho system and can see speed dropping I have the facility to give feed back to the SG4 for speed adjustment, but, whether I have the ability to write the code will be the limiting factor. The programming I have done was for high speed data acquisition using LabView which is data flow programming and looks like a circuit diagram. You could probe the program and see what was really happening. This line flow with no user interface in the program is BS to me. I end up having to write code within the code to just to see what variables are doing.

P.S. As I have the arduino in place and once the motor controller side is done do a tacho. This will only be a speed check rather than a feed back to control the motor as the synchronus design of the motor should look it's speed. The SG4 has 0.01RPM speed increments via push buttons. Although I have put a rotary encoder as a secondary start button and speed adjuster.

Ahhhh the dreaded Number9 - how the memory lingers on You could look at the SG4 on DIYAudio https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-4-phase-sinewave-generator-for-turntable-motor-drive.298018/ I have made the board and using a stereo class D amp with step up transformer. That all works very well. I have control of the phase angle, the start and run voltage. I am only using two phases, but, it has 4 phases available. My understanding is the SG4 has been created by ex Phoenix Engineering. I'm using the Lingo push button and connection board and am working through i.e. learning to program, an Arduino to detect button push and a long button push for 45RPM as well as the LED's for the switch. It will also be monitoring voltage across a fuse in the common neutral line such that if it blows (and protects the transformer) the system will turn off the output and go into an "alarm state" (probably alternating Red and Green LED on the switch). The protection scheme was what I came up with given the electrical safety experts only know what's inside the square .i.e. were not forthcoming with any "expert" advice. This will be going into a DIY corner braced LP12 with Certech sub chassis, Cirkus bearing, Mober sub platter with a Roksan Nima tonearm.

Adding the mushrooms losing subchassis isolation was my thoughts too. Maybe the Trampoline 2 I have to collect in the UK with my karousel will be needed if I go to mushrooms. Certainly getting rid of lateral cartridge movement induced when using standard motor position would be good. But you don't have that issue with opposed motors. However, isolation platform will reduce the rate energy is drained from the plinth. Nothing is without consequence!

Hope this gives you what you might want to know. Damn can't attach PDF! How about a photo!

Ok so when we have all the attention of the DIY Electrical safety members ..... LP12 speed controller build - I have a board which produces two sine waves that I can adjust the phase difference and frequency of the sine waves. I have a voltage divider on the output which allows me to adjust the voltage of the sine waves that are then fed into seperate channels of a class D amplifier. Safe so far! Source - attenuator - amplifier. But then I step the voltage up. The amplified sine wave is then fed into a Nuvotem Talema toridal transformer 70062K. This is normally a 25VA 115/230 step down to 12/12. But I feed my amplfied signal into the 2x12V in series and take the output from the in series 115V windings i.e. 230V. Do I fuse the transformers - I say yes. Do I fuse the feed in or the feed out - I say in. What size fuse - I'm thinking close rated because it will be ramped anyway. So 1A which is the max current rating of the intended purpose secondary. What speed - I'm thinking fast. What does everyone think should be done for electrical safety?

Thanks @Monkeyboi I was on the same page. I use a good pair of Ratchet Crimping Pliers and my female spade terminals have the contact spring. Re transformer the spec sheet says to fuse at 80mA which is 10VA/230V * 2. I'll have to reread Rod Elliots page on circuit protection https://sound-au.com/articles/fusing.htm as he says that low VA transformers Quote: Be warned and beware of small transformers (typically anything less than perhaps 10-15VA, lower ratings are progressively worse). Because these normally run with a partially saturated core, the calculated full load current cannot be used - it must be measured at full rated voltage. Likewise, the short circuit current must also be measured with the full mains voltage applied. While this will seriously overload the transformer, if tests are kept brief (as long as it takes to get an accurate measurement), the transformer will not be damaged. Make sure you allow time for it to cool to normal quiescent temperature between tests. From Rods contruction notes for the soft start circuit this 10VA transformer will be powering by switching the 9V secondary side Quote: One alternative that some constructors may find attractive is the ability to use a switch in the 9V secondary to power the amp on and off. This is (slightly) wasteful of power because the transformer is energised permanently (although idling current is generally quite small), and there is a small risk of fire. If you choose this method, the transformer must be fitted with a thermal fuse for your protection. As a responsible DIYer I read what I can. Shame is the other transformers (25VA) I'm using that aren't on all the time have thermal fuses and the one that needs it doesn't Oh well I have time to read more prior to finalising the power supply side of things.

When you say spade connectors are you talking the quick connect type on iec sockets and some monolithic bridges? If so these should all be soldered and shrink sealed? Or the U type that goes each side of a screw that is clamped down. My current safety concern is whether a thermal fuse is in Nuotem Talema 70041K. Can't find any mention of it.