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About tesla13BMW

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  • Birthday 05/10/1970

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  1. I don't believe I need the level of bass most people do. Many say the ESL57's don't produce bass and although I do run subs with my stacked ESL's when the subs aren't turned on it isn't really missed.
  2. I took a A weighted reading at the 3.5m listening position using my stacked ESL57's at what I considered a loud volume that I would not listen at, and it hovered around 80dB. The 90dB I mentioned is an average and then I have calculated dynamic range above this and took 15dB. That's is where I am at looking at low pass somewhere between 150 and 200 Hz to a midwoofer or woofer. Hence asking about the SB Audience 18" and 15" drivers. I was looking at the top band of the Betsy at about 1500Hz and the high pass for the GR Neo 3 at about 1500 Hz. Thinking this would achieve a smooth transition between the two drivers. Ok need to go read about directivity - any good resources? Martin Kings Quarter Wave and Troel Gravesons sites have been my main readings.
  3. My target and what I did my calculations on was for 90dB at listening position which is 3.5m from the speakers. I'd like to get down to 30Hz without dropping too many dB. My calculations included 15dB for dynamic range. The sensitivity of the Wild Burro Betsy is going to limit this as my calcs say I need 118W, but, if I drop the dynamic range back to 10dB I only need 37W. I think I have been conservative. The Betsy is an 8" driver which is only 92.4 dB/W efficient starting to fall off from 70Hz down. Perhaps I should be looking at a better mid range driver?? So perhaps I am getting the important sound into one driver? The plan is for a wide baffle at the bottom tapering up to narrow at the top - stretched oblong??, tear drop. Although Troel Gravesons OBL15 looks quite reasonable.
  4. @davewantsmoore thanks for your response. I guess I should have said I have no issue with a large baffle. I have tried modelling in Basta and dipole design. The Bianco-12OB150 which is 12" has an Xmax of 6.79mm, the 15OB350 has an Xmax of 11mm and the 18SW450 has an Xmax of 10.93mm. Are you saying the Eminence Deltalite ii 2515 at Xmax 4.8mm and Faital pro 15PR400 at Xmax 5.75mm are not large enough? I will be using DSP but don't want to back myself into a corner by choosing a driver that will need a lot of boost which my amps wont have enough power to give. Any reason not to use an 18" and 15" or 15" and 12" woofer in parallel off the same amp? So overall what you are saying is to model all the drivers in a baffle and apply filters to get a flat response? P.S. I really would prefer not to have a sh t speaker
  5. Ok. Looking for guidance. Planning 3 way active open baffle. Mid being Wild burro Betsy for the start with GR Neo3 for top end. Mid and tweeter will have 80W into 8ohm amps. Woofer will have 150W into 8ohm. Each amp will have its own power supply with 30,000 uF on each polarity DC rail. Baffle size isn't really an issue - run stacked ESL57's currently! Woofer contenders have been Eminence deltalite ii 2515 and Faital pro 15pr400. But, the Bianco-15OB350 and Bianco-18SW450 seem good contenders. Any views on one 15" Bianco per side, two 15" Bianco per side, one Bianco 18" or a Bianco 18" and 15" per side? Would like to keep below the $1000 mark for all the woofers. Looking for high 80's SPL at 3.5m listening distance. Two per side will allow me to run in parallel and have a nominal 4 ohm load. Same with a 18 and 15 per side. An 18 /15/ 8" combo will make an aesthetically pleasing tapering of drivers - fickle aye Or any other suitable drivers that aren't made of gold or going to cost as much as the driver itself in freight? P.S. Been reading lots, but, still don't know enough to throw money at the woofer drivers! P.P.S I have allowed for DSP and volume control to give 4 channels per side in case I needed a low level subwoofer output, but, would like to avoid it.
  6. @Mushroom01 did you go anywhere with these drivers?
  7. If you are happy to read Rod Elliott is very good at Elliott Sound Products https://sound-au.com/ Site also has a lot of information which is down to earth generic stuff and not esoteric. The projects page will tell you what PCB's are available for what projects.
  8. I put a Groovetracer reference subplatter and delrin platter on my RP1 and it made a big difference in "tightening" the sound up.
  9. I have one and it is a nice turntable. Belts were available on ebay, but, are currently out of stock. I've had no issue with the one I got off ebay. The only issue I have currently with mine is a motor knock. It doesn't come close to my upgraded LP12, ARXA or Strathclyde but was also never at their price points either! It is certainly too good to dispose of.
  10. It really needs a new plinth or at least new veneer applied. The corners are lifting and the chip board is a bit flaky. I don't believe a new plinth is going to make it a great table though. I got it a new belt from Decibel HiFi so I could use it to trial a straight connector tone arm cable prior to buying one for one the the formula 4's final set up on the Orpheus Silex. My other tables are LP12's which needs the right angle plug as does the Roksan Nima in the LP12. The ARXA is hard wired. My rega is also integral from the cartridge to the RCA's. As I have to rewire the Formula 4 I may do away with the Din plug in the bottom and wire continuous.
  11. I have one with the "shot bucket" and one missing the shot bucket. I read that an SME3009 antiskate is the same weight. Damping oil is said to be 60,000 cSt and I got Silicone Diff fluid from a model shop on line. Seems the cuing lift holder is a weak point as both mine have these broken. Mine are getting a rewire and stainless grub screws throughout as well as making new cuing holders. I can't do away with the cuing holder as it also mounts the antiskate wheel. If someone has a spare arm rest I'd be very interested. I am to mount the arm on an Orpheus Silex when I rebuild it, but, currently one sits on a JH table.
  12. I will always remember listening to a pair of Shaninian Diapason. And how amazed I was with the Super Elf.
  13. I have a JH Reproductions as well, but, with the formula 4 arm. I only got it for the arm. Perhaps I should buy a belt for it and give it a spin.
  14. No worries Peter. Not knowing your exact situation, you could run a short mains lead off your power board to the remote socket. Or there is something like this which could be wired into the amp or put intline on an IEC cable, but, then a licensed electrician would need to inspect it at a cost. https://www.dicksmith.com.au/da/buy/grodigo-wifi-smart-home-switch-socket-lamps-wireless-remote-control-bf1042-bf1042/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_listing_ads&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn7j2BRDrARIsAHJkxmyGzBJ9wNZX53uuMMsyweymXh_vw95owF5c64GgipBmNLow68DFRLoaAvwTEALw_wcB
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