Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

293 Excellent

About tesla13BMW

  • Rank
    500+ Post Club
  • Birthday 05/10/1970

Profile Fields

  • Location
  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

4,755 profile views
  1. Hi Andy. Yes the tubes4hifi PH16 is a MM phono stage and I am using a Rload of 47K. Linn recommends >10 ohms and nominal 470 ohms for the asak. I only have one higher loading of 68K available but could always change the loading resistors. I realise there should be a sound degradation running through a switch, but, I really haven't found it to make very much of a difference. Perhaps this is due to running 70 year old amp technology and 60 year old speaker technology :-) Or it is my ears having been abused by building spark gap tesla coils and racing a speedway bike! It isn't really required now that I've put the Lingo on the LP12 and don't need the second table for 45RPM although a second table is always nice to swap to periodically. When I get other projects out of the way I'll have to look at loading and the switch in the system - always something to be a tinkering with :-) P.S. The loading issue is to be changing as I have a Linn Akiva coming with output of 0.4mV and will be either using 10x or 20x of SUT, BTW akiva recommended load is >50 ohms. The Graham Slee Reflex M is a good MM phono stage for the $'s particularly with the PSU1
  2. Yes. I use a Linn Asak MC at 100uv output and a diy SUT using a 40x setting (using Cinemag 1254's). I find it performs very well with the above and also MM - I have a selector switch as to source to the phono.
  3. I have built the PH16 and found it to be a very nice phonostage ousting my Graham Slee ReflexM.
  4. You can DIY a voltage divider (many schematics on web for speaker level to line level conversion) or use a high level to low level converter (sometimes referred to as speaker level to rca) as used commonly in car audio for factory head unit integration with amps etc. Jaycar has them for $14 or $30 odd, later also does RCA to RCA attenuation. From what I've read the voltage divider is what is generally used inside a powered sub with high level inputs anyway.
  5. I use a crown amp and it is good, but, the fan is noisy. Need to look into getting a quieter fan for it.
  6. @Juzbear I don't consider the new motor has made any difference to the sound of the TT, but, the new motor and the old motor were both silent in operation.
  7. Great for movies, they'd blend right into Star Trek on screen!
  8. Good work with the corner bracing. I installed a new motor on the weekend, but, it did not cure the very slow start up of the valhalla. Fitting the lingo2 did and now it is super fast to start up and 45 to boot :-) Next weekend will be the kore and all new suspension.
  9. @Juzbear have a look at https://lp12bits.com/ I have found his descriptions relate well to what I received and he is very helpful. Even allowed me to collect the kore when I was over there to avoid duties at this end. I like you are to do the corner bracing to avoid future loosening of the corners in the Brisbane humidity. Like you I am keeping everything I take off the LP12 I am updating, and will fit this back to a standard LP12 as much to keep a reference of what an early 80's deck is like. Some say this was the "best years" for musicality. Enjoy your journey! P.S. At least I have a tricked or RP1 to fill the void when the LP12 is being worked on :-)
  10. A point to consider is whether you find / consider shielding on interconnects is detrimental to signal transfer (another can of worms topic). If you think it is, then shielding power cables can be an advantage as with many multi box system set ups it is difficult to keep cables adequately spaced.
  11. Have a look at the tubes4hifi page. Certainly cheap enough to give a go in a re purposed case and if you like it go all out on enclosure and sockets etc. http://www.tubes4hifi.com/home.html I built the PH14 and really like it. Ousted my Graham Slee ReflexM. If I was doing it again I'd build the power supply in a separate enclosure to remove the "I wonder if the PS is coming through" thoughts.
  12. Indeed and still running them as a stacked pair with Megallins and Townshend super tweeters. The only issue I have is the noisey fan on the crown amp I use for the subs.
  13. These are what I use with my stacked ESL57's and I consider they match very well. But, I am no expert just a listener of music. I suggest anyone with panels read up on these as there aren't a lot out there capable of matching with electrostatics.
  14. @andyr thanks for qualifying your comment. I am actually very fond of the fluted afromosia plinth. Works of art aren't my priority with the increased costs of a "work of art" compared with a functioning and "pretty item" When I had my four, quad II's rebuilt by Elson Silva I had the option of a full rebuild including repainting the chassis, mains transformer, choke and output transformer, but, given it was not going to improve the sound I saved the monies that was required (around $500 each for the aesthetics). But, at least I can sort of hide them away. My LP12 plinth is in very good condition and IMO looks like an LP12 should, obviously for that era. No one will see what the important bits look like that are far from the mid 80's P.S. I have another plinth of early mid 80's and everything that comes off the main unit is to be used to create a "standard" early 80's pre cirkus LP12. I am very interested in being able to relive what the deck use to be. The fear is I may prefer the warmth, pace and rhythm that many like of the late pre cirkus era.
  15. @PeterC are you able to search? Seems I can't nor log in, but, then I don't know if I was ever a member of the Linn forum or just read posts.
  • Create New...