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About tesla13BMW

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  • Birthday 05/10/1970

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  1. Thanks @Tubularbells for the recipe. I am going to construct a drying cabinet as we are never going to get cool enough in Brisbane to open are dry. Need to read some more as to whether to have both humidification and dehumidification. Would be nice to have it controlled by hygrometer, but, may end up manipulating humidity with rock salt for dehydration and salt water for hydration. First run I am actually going to use "Banquet Bags" and cure in the fridge. Not authentic but safe!
  2. Anybody wish to share their Chilli Salami Recipe or a good base recipe?
  3. Yes. But do have a corner stud top plate to fit.
  4. Well here is a turntable photo. Missing subplatter and crossbrace which will come from the upgrading deck. Here is the setup - hotrodded Union Jack RP1 on the right. For perspective that is a 75" TV. And here is the LP12. The mat is a Hide in the sound. To the right you see DIY SUT with selectable x40, x20 and x10. To the left you'll see a glimpse of a pair of Quad II's for the left hand speaker stack.
  5. So I pulled the table down and investigated the cetech sub chassis. Once the chassis was out from the plinth and the platter turned upside down it could be seen there was no issue with the tranquillity on the cetech (although not adjusted correctly in the photo). Those not familair with the cetech it is a carbon fibre aluminium honeyfomb construction. The issue was that the spindle would not always sink down into the bearing. It is as though it gets an air lock and wont let the air escape from the bearing. However, with the chassis still out of the plinth I installed the bearing onto the kore and was able to ensure the spindle sank into the bearing and was able to set the tranquillity magnets to a clearance of 0.2mm. I reassembled the table, which the kore made a breeze with the fixed arm position relative to the spindle, no more using the kinky! I also fitted the Linn Akiva which with the 3 point mounting made for instant alignment. It is impossible to attribute the resultant change to any one item, but, I was not going to fit each item piece wise to find out. The noise floor has dropped, the depth of sound stage has grown front to back and everything just seems to be more precise and clear/less muddled. So I'm very happy with the improvement in sound. I will need to consider the bearing, either buy a new Cirkus bearing or fit the mober and mober cross brace. My reluctance of fitting the mober is that is had sat a while from when I brought it and was full of what looked like dried up oil which had gone to thin flakes. Although I've cleaned it out it is still a concern. Once I've decided what to do with the bearing I will also fit the mober subplatter and that will be mostly it for the LP12 until the Number9 speed controller and 24V AC motor get delivered (fingers crossed this year!). At this point the plinth will get corner bracing and the 5 stud top plate fitted. So S/N 52121 is now Lingo 2, kore, tranquillity, Linn T kable, with Ekos mk1 and Akiva. All the replaced bits including the original spot welded subchassis will be going to build an original early 80's spec table. Although it is S/N 31687 it will be Nirvana and Valhalla with the Ittok LVII fitted with Asak. Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.
  6. Thanks Tase Would you venture to hypothesise what difference the subchassis may make given the tranquillity fits to the bearing housing? I can only think that the carbon fibre / aluminium honeycomb is having some different interaction with the magnetic flux of the magnets than the linn subchassis, but the keel is all aluminium, early chassis steel. I guess the other area could be that my platter assembly weighs less.....but, it is standard Linn parts.
  7. Currently a Certech but do have a kore to fit, but have been waiting for my number9 spped controller to fit all at the same time.
  8. Well I just don't know where my difference lies! Thinking the bearing oil was stopping the platter assembly from lowering, I removed it. Leaving a smear on the spindle and no magnets it lowers to the thrust pad. If the magnets are in place the platter assembly floats. The only way I can get the magnets to scrape is to place thin blocks under the lower magnet and force the platter assembly down to have them touch. I then backed it off a quarter turn. I have refilled the bearing with oil and refit the subplatter and platter. Is there any issue with the spindle riding high in the bearing? Other than having to adjust VTA of course.
  9. Thanks Peter. Now I'm a bit confused. Is the thrust pad not solid in the bottom of the bearing housing? If applying a little extra weight drops the platter the thrust pad must be maleable or the spindle is held off the thrust pad??? Am I missing some detail somewhere? Cheers, Chris.
  10. Hi Peter Yes the lower magnet is sitting down over the bearing bolts. It looks high in this photo because I had it adjusted right up trying to achieve the scrape before realising how long the platter assembly was taking to settle. It did settle down lower over night (after I brought the lower magnet down to where measurements said it should be), and I am in the process of raising the lower magnet until I get a "scrape" then will bring it back down one full turn. Putting a few CD cases on the platter to speed up the process a bit. Although a pain for doing this at least the slow settle of the platter assembly should suggest the pre cirkus bearing / spindle still has small clearances.
  11. I have attached an image with the two magnets installed. The lower magnet is adjusted right up so the lock collar is just screwed on. I also took some measurements. From the magnet surface of the sub platter magnet to the tip of the spindle is 55.5mm From the magnet in this position to the thrust pad is 58.7mm. Therefore with the spindle fully inserted the magnets should be hitting by 3.2mm. But they are not even close to touching each other. I can only think the decreased effective weight of the platter assembly means it will take a long time for the air to escape from the pre cirkus bearing (I know I should have a cirkus bearing, but, I do have a mober bearing that I couldn't install due to the Valhalla board, but, will do whenever I receive my Number9 controller :-). I have lowered the bottom magnet by 3.2mm and placed the platter assembly back on and will wait and see after a longer period of time if the two magnets are touching or at least very close.
  12. Those who have fitted the Tiger Paw Tranquillity, did you have to adjust VTA. I have fitted following the instructions and allowing the platter to settle into the bearing, but, the back of the arm is now scraping on the record where as it was not prior to fitting the tranquillity. As such it must be repelling to the point that it is lifting the spindle clear of the thrust pad in the bearing???? Should I ignore and just reset VTA or does someone have another suggestion? Cheers, Chris.
  13. Hi Andy. Yes the tubes4hifi PH16 is a MM phono stage and I am using a Rload of 47K. Linn recommends >10 ohms and nominal 470 ohms for the asak. I only have one higher loading of 68K available but could always change the loading resistors. I realise there should be a sound degradation running through a switch, but, I really haven't found it to make very much of a difference. Perhaps this is due to running 70 year old amp technology and 60 year old speaker technology :-) Or it is my ears having been abused by building spark gap tesla coils and racing a speedway bike! It isn't really required now that I've put the Lingo on the LP12 and don't need the second table for 45RPM although a second table is always nice to swap to periodically. When I get other projects out of the way I'll have to look at loading and the switch in the system - always something to be a tinkering with :-) P.S. The loading issue is to be changing as I have a Linn Akiva coming with output of 0.4mV and will be either using 10x or 20x of SUT, BTW akiva recommended load is >50 ohms. The Graham Slee Reflex M is a good MM phono stage for the $'s particularly with the PSU1
  14. Yes. I use a Linn Asak MC at 100uv output and a diy SUT using a 40x setting (using Cinemag 1254's). I find it performs very well with the above and also MM - I have a selector switch as to source to the phono.
  15. I have built the PH16 and found it to be a very nice phonostage ousting my Graham Slee ReflexM.
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