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Everything posted by Ozcall

  1. The 2i has a nice warm sound rather than being over the top analytical so if you want that but with more detail , larger sound stage etc, etc then look at dacs based one one of the AK44 series dac chips. If you want a more analytical sound then dacs based pn the SABRE ES38 series will offer that. Audio-gd make some very high value for money Sabre dacs ,eg : http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/Headphoneamp/N11P/NFB1138PEN.htm. A second hand or new Klein dac with it's AK44 series dacs should also be under serious consideration. Not familiar with your amp or speakers so can't tell you if t
  2. Excellent musical player and a good platform for tweakage.
  3. "I think the concept that you need some huge amp to drive the Gales is inaccurate." No , IT IS MOST DEFINETLY NOT INACCURATE. The fact that you can get ok sound out of Gales with an avr or higher powered valve amp and that you like that sound is not unusual but in order to make them perform at thei best you need a power amp wih high current output even if the power is only 50w eg the Krell KSA50. At best you have yet to hear what your speakers can do and at worst the crossover will go on fire. This is onw time you should believe the 'hype' .
  4. What a bargain , a very good player , maybe not in the hi-end league but plays way above it's weight. GLWTS.
  5. You might also want to consider Gentooplayer , which is very flexible and has Roon integration. https://gentooplayer.com/ https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/55235-gentooplayer/
  6. Certainly a factor but have tried quite the number of dacs with many usb implimentations , Opearating systems. , powe supplies etc. I agree that the Allo sig doesn't look like much but it's perfromance is up therewith the best I haver heard so far and it can be used with the Ian Canada components if you want to try other output methods. Don't be fooled by the USBsigs low price it is a capable design and a great platform to build on.
  7. Apparently the Adikt is a rebadged Goldring and this is definetly a Goldring too. Great cartridges by the way.
  8. Based solely on my own testing I have moved away from using usb , initially in favour of using HDMI and now to plain old coax. If you want to use usb then buy an ALLO USBridge signature and preferably one of their Shanti power supplies. https://www.allo.com/sparky/usbridge-signature-pcb.html as this will be all you need. I am currently using Gentoo player as the OS as it is the best sounding ,so far and has many options to tune the sound to you liking.
  9. Hi MB , there are a couple of very long threads on the DIY Audio forum detailing Ian's work : https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter.html https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-based/335881-iancanadas-rpi-gb-goodies-impressions-tweaks-mods-hints.html The second thread is the more pertinet one for Raspberry Pi info. Igot all my stuff from Audiophonics and was very pleased with their service , although shipping is rather slow at the moment. I have a fifopi Q3 on the way at the moment ,along with hi
  10. Here you go : https://www.repairyourspeakers.com/en/surrounds-by-size/2-4-inch/4-pee-foam-surround-for-repair-peerless/a-2530-10000068
  11. The loose foot can be easily repaired with a toothpick or two and some pva glue.
  12. I am using a Rotel Michi RHB10 that I recapped a few years back. Left the main caps stock but replaced the Blackgates on the amp pcb's with Elna Silmic 2 and a polypropylene 4.7uf replacing the 4.7uf input electrolytic.
  13. Will post some pics when I am putting them back together.
  14. As I began reassembling the first speaker my hand brushed against the surround of one of the midranges and it disintegrated. Finally found the correct replacement surrounds from a comapny in Holland and they are on their way. Fortunately the bass unit surrounds had been replaced already and appear to be fine.
  15. These are supposed to be excellent : https://www.musicalparadise.ca/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=103
  16. I used to sell them also but many years ago. I agree with Mark's comments
  17. I like the Jantzen Superior Z caps and they are easily available from Speakerbug here in Australia https://speakerbug.com.au/index.php?route=product/category&path=25_31
  18. I got my first pair back in the early 80's and they were awesome with a decent amp. Got thid pair about 10 yrs ago and while never as good as the first pair I still enjoyed listening to music on them.Let's hope all goes to plan.
  19. I have been meaning to get round to servicing my Gales for a number of years now but as anyone who has ever taken a pair to bits knows it is a bit of a bugger of a job. Been doing a few crossover upgrades for friends and t he sucess of those has spurred me on to do my own speakers, particularly as this pair have never sounded as good as the original ones I had back in the UK. I knew that the current pair had been reworked before bit was kinda surprised at what greeted me when I finally got to the crossover. I say surprised because this pair always sounded pretty good, but the crossov
  20. Waht I find odd is all the time and energy put into getting the mains cable sorted and then it is plugged into a power block. Unless you a renting get an electrician to mount as many sockets on the wall as you need with a few extra for new items and do away with powerboards.blocks altogether.
  21. It depends on a number of factors Peter so I can't say that given you example how it would sound, simply that from my experience too much mass in the actual stand can make a speaker sound lifeless. The best stands I have used have had their mass tuned to the speaker they are intended to be used with. Also have experimented over the years with different substrates between speaker and floor and with the speakers I have had to hand at various times concrete slabs have never worked well for me whether the floor be suspended or concrete but my point was about the stands themselves rather than
  22. Interesting thread. Only ever heard the early Proacs and while I liked them they were anything but laid back, EB1's I think. Over the years I have found a number of things that can make speakers sound lifeless : Stands with too much mass, moving speakers to far from the back wall, stands that are not stable on the floor , too much or to little toe in. I would suggest playing with the distance to the back wall while listening for when the bass seems to play in time with the rest of the spectrum. I can't imagine that the Vincent would sound lifeless as the solid state output stage
  23. Hi Rob , the power requirement is 5v @ 3amps for the Bridge. Allo's own power supply is great and in the scheme of things not expensive at $159 us. The Allo shanti psu has a common r-core transformer but from there on there are 2 indivdual circuits : the 5v 3amp for the bridge and another 5v 1.5 amp for the hats. The BRIDGE has a "clean" usb outut to feed a dac but I am using the Ian Canada , isolator reclocked board and his output board that gives you a choice of signal outputs : HDMI lvds ,coax , optical and bnc coax. I have replaced the upgradeable clocks on the reclocker with Accusilico
  24. After much experimentation wit hardware and soft ware I gave up on Windows 10 based pc's and started using a pi4 with various hats to solve the jitter and electtical noise problems of the pi. Sound quality improved markedly even just using Voluimino. Now I use an ALLO BRIDGE ,Allo Shanti power supply with the same hats and the sound quality is to my ears way ahead of any of the Win10 units with Linear power supplies I had. I know use Gentoplayer as my OS which offers a lot of configuration options to get the sound to suit your ears and the rest of the system. I no longer rate usb as a method
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