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About Neilsy

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  1. Try 4Cabling I think they have Melbourne stock also.
  2. Oppo 203 and 205

    There are regular firmware and I dare say they are fixing it. When I say rare it is quite rare. Probably only 6 times in my whole time owning... I definitely will do something about it if it occurs continually I'd say but it has been a long time between drinks
  3. Oppo 203 and 205

    I was a buyer of the very first Oppo 205 Video Pro got at their distribution centre as I basically pre ordered. Every now and then it will randomly freeze but otherwise it is flawless for my use. And that freezing is rare... Never during a film. Only menu Largely noticeable audio improvement from the 105-D I had (I run the analogue outputs)
  4. better to add or change

    Hi Markyboy156, With regards to the subs 'performance' - what is lacking to you or what do you want improved? If you're running the best possible DACs from your set-up straight to their input it comes down to tuning and room resonance.if you want to seriously manage your bass, have you considered Velodyne SMS-1? If you look it up it was multiple in and out and it is fully controlled parametric EQ, phase, everything. I have 4 Velodyne DD18 - so this is built in for me and I just daisy chain and this device allows control of all subs from one master. You should be able to implement the same with this
  5. Mixing Speaker Brands

    One thing in favour of anyone seeking speakers is both them and amplifiers age very slowly - from a technology standpoint. So you may not be at disadvantaged in finding older, quality second hand units. Unless they've had a hard life and pushed to the limits therefore drivers worn out. You mentioned Dali before - these are up for sale everywhere here in Aus (Gumtree, etc) because they're basically the top brand Wow Site & Sound and JB Hi-Fi carried. You can score a full Dali Concept 5.1 set anywhere from $600-$1200 depending on the front L & R. I had a set for years and they were a great brand, never failed. And if you need, I still have 2x Concept 1 in Cherry finish if you want to purchase for surrounds. They're bookshelf Overall best to match the front sound stage. And if you are a movies person, don't scrimp on the centre channel - - 80+% of all movie material comes out of there
  6. New sounds with your home HT?

    Dead right. Just like certain screen refresh rates on a PowerPoint preso will tire the eyes, such is sound. In professional audio lectures or seminars there is a sweet spot the speaker must be projected at, and that's about 77dB. Mixed well of course. It excited the rat's senses and locks our attention, we engage more. It's never just the visual Coincidently reference level puts dialogue about 72-75dB in movies. So there you go!!
  7. Mixing Speaker Brands

    I would stand behind aiming to keep the same LCR. Easiest compromise I would say is subwoofer, then perhaps surrounds and Atmos/DTSX channels. The last thing you want with a camera pan is the same train sounding different!
  8. Upgrading my existing set up

    That's not a bad amount to get a potentially significant upgrade, and with it presents many options. One approach I might throw my two cents worth is getting bang for buck in the form of ex-demo or purchasing from a user here of a product they're upgrading. You could potentially land a JVC X7000 for that money and very likely an X5000 with money to spare... Particularly in things like receivers /amp I do agree with the latest technology - IF that is your requirement. Ex demo from a store may serve well as vendor warranty will still apply. The Oppo is a great choice. And they hardly discount ever. Screens are also quite often found second hand really cheap - I know I did for my 133" (in the hundreds) because they're just a large awkward object. Happy shopping though! Hit me with any Qs
  9. Blade Runner 2049

    So the release of this hit the shelves and given I'm on holidays I took to watching Bladerunner 2049 in UHD yesterday. Besides having to significantly lower the sub volume, an amazing life of audio. The electronic score held such clarity, perfectly on the verge of not being to sizzling. What did we all think of this when viewed at home?
  10. HT floorstanders advice

    If you're in SA Krix is right in your backyard.. Trusted in many, many cinemas in Australia and also globally, might be a brand to consider. If you can find either of these second hand they may meet your budget or ask what they can do from a dealer new: http://www.krix.com.au/harmonix-mk2/ http://www.krix.com.au/neuphonix-mk2/
  11. How to handle multi Subwoofer setup

    Good to hear with REW it's easy like that. And yep, speakers set to Large will run them as full range - no bass sent to subs. Where are your subs positioned compared to your main speakers? If they are together you should only need to set delay (phase) as a combined pair. If different locations (i.e one front of room, one rear of room) then different phase. In terms of correct phase, it should be set to the highest volume at the crossover point (when using bass mgt on front speakers) otherwise you may experience cancellation or combing issues
  12. How to handle multi Subwoofer setup

    Apologies if any of this has already been addressed, but here's some points that may help: 1. Low output 60-80hz sounds like there is still too low of a crossover engaged. With your pre pro you mentioned 40hz, if that is for the LFE channel I'd try it set up at at 80hz and then disengage any high pass filter on the subs, if possible, or set as high as you can (like 200hz). 2. It's not always perfect getting the bass right as SPL and dB meters use averages but not linearly down to the full spectrum of 20hz. I'd run noise through your main channels set to 75dB on the dB meter, C-weighted, and have the subs read about 82dB, it should account for the subsonic loss. 3. Always consider the LFE an isolated channel. Even if you set a differing crossover from your, say, left & right speakers (60hz e.g.) your LFE should always be 80hz due to what will get sent down the dedicated LFE channel. Another thing, be careful with what noise you tune your system with - - if it's pink noise from a CD it is likely to be in 2.0 meaning tuning your subwoofer from this will be completely inaccurate especially if you have set a low crossover for your fronts such as 40 or 60hz, as that's all the subs will get. Hope some of that helps. Let me know if any Qs
  13. Thoughts on bi-amp gain structure

    I tested today using some limited band pink noise for consistency and was impressed there was a variation between the two generations of amps and that it was exactly 3dB as stayed. Well done Emotiva. I'm quite satisfied now with the level adjustments made which has let the horn loaded mid and high really come to life.
  14. Thoughts on bi-amp gain structure

    Thanks ML. I think I might have to do some signal output level testing and assess.
  15. Seeking some insightful or experienced input here... In my Krix Theatrix setup they are bi-amp and as much as I sought out a like for like amp set I ended up with an Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 1 and the other is a Gen 2. Gen 1 = 32dB gain output, whilst Gen 2 = 29dB. So I ran the 3x LF modules on one amp (the Gen1) and the 3x HF off the Gen 2 amp for uniformity of the sections. In my processing section though the top (HF) section is recommended to be 9dB less than the bottoms (due to the sensitivity). Which is adjusted through my signal processing unit. (external crossover) So my question is should I make that only - 6dB to make up for the 3dB less gain output that amp has or is it not that simple and due to sensitivity factors or something it might need less of a change, like say only 1.5dB... Simple maths says yes I'm just not sure. Both LF and HF sections are 8 ohm I believe. Happy to answer any questions to explain further.