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TigerScent

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About TigerScent

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  1. I would say 'go silver' in anything you do or use...preferrably annealed solid silver or at least military grade silver coated..., and use Mundorf silver solder
  2. yeah...maybe, thought of it, ... but I am kind of enjoying them at present...
  3. ...one does not need too many $$$ to make for a good sound system, just a lot of common sense and razor-edge discernment...
  4. ...I cannot remember hearing anything so good - so crisp, dynamic, with soundstage - transparency and depth, that is unnerving and the next best thing to going to a live venue... I don't need to spend any $$$ ... but will work on the solid slate base next with custom Rega style TT with some significant innovations ...
  5. I have re-posted my previous thread material; streamlined it with headings and added extra material and mods done since - in another thread entitled: 'Rega Planar 3/2 - Gr8 DIY Upgrades' ...enjoy...
  6. ...ahhh, good, I see the moderator has responded to my request and changed the thread title ... thanks for that
  7. yw ... I hope other members can now extract even more benefit from their Rega Planar 3/2 from this thread; from my thread/s and any others similar etc ... Its not just about low-cost but the creative element of achieving something quite worthwhile with practical results; and the subsequent rewards it brings ...
  8. Hey Telecine, I did at some point?! indicate in a post somewhere that I would re-post my original upgrade mods; but was otherwise quite occupied, until now - so I have done so in a more streamlined easy-to-follow manner with extra mods I have made since... Its called 'Rega Planar 3 - Gr8 budget upgrades' as I had to come up with another title from the previous one. I just realised its a bit similar to yours, but I cannot find any way to change it now that its up. I almost made it 'Rega Planar 3 - Gr8 upgrades by TS' or something along those lines ... ...actually 'Rega Planar 3 - Gr8 DIY Mods & Upgrades' would have been best ...
  9. ...additional isolation for plinth... I started by getting some thin high density foam from a rubber/foam store, and cut to size to place under the rubber feet of plinth and under the motor housing. It worked OK, but kept getting ideas from reading posts about using the gel found in mouse arm-pad rests. I had an old one I cut apart and used slices I cut from it (very very messy and sticky to work with - quite a challenge) and placed them under the feet of the plinth. The whole thing moves like its floating on aeroplane jelly/air, however it DOES make an added difference. In effect, all the mods with isolated motor housing and now this creates quite an effective floating platter effect I believe would be difficult to beat... ...I just have to find a way of making my own very thin gel pieces or find a source for them...
  10. ...making low-slung counterweight... I decided to make my own low-slung counterweight so that it was almost right on top of the pivot-point of the RB300 tonearm. I went to the local plumbing store (of course) and selected a brass fitting of some description which almost had a 1/2" diameter and lugs with holes. I then went to my local engineering shop and purchased a 50mm length of solid brass rod. I then proceeded to engineer this counterweight by placing in a vice and drilling the hole in the plumbing part to 1/2 inch. First attempt failed as the part started to spin and broke of a lug (see photo). The second attempt was a success, due to very VERY firmly placing in vice. I then cut it to size so that it was even on both sides, and proceeded to cut slices off the brass rod with a very fine cutting wheel for 4" grinder. I cut both sides off, and weighed, then shaped via a bench grinder constantly weighing and calculating final weight. I left a bit over just for adjustments. I super glued the arm-end housing part I created to the newly formed weight, and then drilled a bit into each hole. I had to reglue as it came apart due to the drill action moving it, so I cleaned with acetone and drilled the rest of the hole measuring the length of the stainless bolts I got for this, then taped the hole to suit the bolts, super-glued the housing to the weight, and then put some araldite into the hole (not too much) and onto the bolt thread; then tightened and allowed to set. The super-glue is quite hard when dry and would couple the 2 parts more tightly; and the araldite is for extra measure and to keep the counterweight set hard so it works as one piece. I slid the counter-weight on arm to test. Arm was very limited in movement upwards due to how low and close weight was to tonearm base, so I measured and cut in a v-type groove with a round file and half-round file until it matched and could lift high enough. A good thing I left some extra weight on the counterweight. I drilled a hole on top for a very small stainless grub screw, and then taped the hole with thread to suit, and polished the counterweight with a dremel and small buffing wheel with brasso on it. In all the time I was engineering this; I was always using accurate digital scales to check the weight and estimating/calculating constantly. Its imperative this is done religously and with great thought and care. The placement of this counterweight is completely set up on my Rega Planar 3 as is seen in the photos, very close to the pivot point by a fraction which is how I intended it to be. Just important to remember the groove on the inside for arm lift (see last photo with that part encircled) I placed the counterweight on the tonearm and adjusted it straight by gravity and sight correction, then very very lightly moved the allen key to the grub screw and lightly turned until tight enough to turn more securely. I have never looked back, and it made more improvement to the sound with no tracking issues. If you have the time, its a great mod to make and feel good about achieving... Cheers ...
  11. ...'Fix-a-Loo' rubber washer 'K' valve (suits Reba/Fowler push button cistern 1988+)... for RB300 tonearm... I came up with a novel idea. Use a rubber or silicone washer that is totally flat, such as found in plumbing etc, for a nice, snug and flat fit...., however anything similar will do with..., medium density... Its an idea I came up with to de-couple and dampen the tonearm from resonance from the plinth/platter..., silicone at the right density would be ideal, but this 'K' valve was the best I could come up with at Bunnings this afternoon... This is 'instead' of the metal washer/spacer that is usually used to raise the height of the tonearm... 'K' is the word !! 'Fix-a-Loo' rubber washer 'K' valve (suits Reba/Fowler push button cistern 1988+) I put some Quick Grip contact on one side of the rubber washer VERY EVENLY and thinly; then on the underside of the base of the tonearm after the thread; and then carefully manouvered it along the base thread of the tonearm, and quickly threaded the wiring through the plinth, and pushed it flat against the plinth (no glue on the plinth as yet) and held for about 10 mins to adhere to the base of the RB300 tonarm, to be able to work with fine-tuning the rubber K-valve to be flush. I then pulled it out to work with the rubber washer further, now affixed to the armbase. Then I cut the excess away first with small sharp curved scissors, around the base, and then with a sharp stanley knife. I then cut some gaffa tape and taped the stainless part of the base up, and proceeded with a dremel and small cylindrical sander implement, to even it out nice and round around the base. I then took the tape off and where it was a bit scuffed through some tape I sanded a bit with 240 grit sandpaper so it was all even with the same look. I proceeded to wrap some silicone gas thread tape around the threaded base part, several times evenly, to further dampen any would-be resonance in that direction... I then put some contact cement on the underside of the said 'K' washer ONLY, (not too thick as it spreads out past the edges) and pushed it onto the plinth into the hole. I ensured it was straight and then placed a pad on top of the tonearm, and then carefully balanced a 5kg weight on top and and leaving overnight...., to ensure it adheres 'flat' regarding tonearm alignment.... This should further de-couple the arm from the plinth and dampen any vibrations... One can also add very thin and even silicone or rubber cut to size on top of the sub-platter for further dampening... Its about 2mm higher, ....at the base of the tonearm, which should be about right, however adding a thin dampening mat on top of the sub-platter, this can be adjusted.... It works rather well, with such a s-i-m-p-l-e modification. There was clearly a distinct improvement in dynamic range, bass response, and clarity accross all registers...I was surprised by the difference...I am re-discovering all my records and they are an increased joy to listen to. Probably should mention that the volume & bass response seems to be much higher. I notice I need to turn it down by about 7 notches. ie: from -11 to -18
  12. ...thrust bearing... ...when I created my motor isolation base, I found it important when engineering the cavity in the center of it, for the thrust bearing (for spring/bearing), it was important to ensure the base surface was very flat, as I had to bolt down the Rega motor to it quite firmly, to minimize/avoid grease (possibly) finding its way through (This has not been an issue to date). .., and for a stable coupling of the motor to the base, so that it would sink/transfer the vibrations/energy from the motor to the base...neutralizing them...(and also minimizing motor vibrations going to the belt) ...I upgraded the platter spindle bearing to ruby: the steel bearing I used for the thrust bearing, which was ideal for the intended purpose... (In using a barbell weight, a seperate Rega motor thrust bearing would need to be fitted onto the motor and the thrust bearing would protrude into the hole in the weight.)
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