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awty last won the day on April 20 2017

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  1. Ilford art 300 print Large one is split toned, small is not, both have selective bleaching, dodge and burn. Ilford art 300 is highly textured and hard to photograph. Scans even worse. Voigtlander Perkeo 1 6x6, 120 hp5 in d76.
  2. Darkroom print on ilford rc grade 2, dodge and burn. Holgaroid 612, 90mm lens, hp5 in d76, double exposure.
  3. Did they finally get the light rail working and he can't contain his excitement.
  4. Well my first thought was to use a 2" nail, but I figured a screw might be a bit more fancy. You could use a feather duster to keep dust off. Anyway just a suggestion, I dont own any picture disc's, so not something I have thought about before.
  5. Just put a screw through the spindle hole and screw it to the wall. How hard can that be.
  6. Darkroom print on rc grade 2, dodge and burn, selenium. Holgaroid 612, 120 hp5 in d76
  7. Karmadon makes them, his stuff is usually very good quality and he's a delight to deal with. http://www.karmadon.net/shop/tonearm-lifter-for-ortofon-as-212/
  8. Oh and here is a thread of mine showing how to pull everything apart, except for the part you wish to get to.....sorry. https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=13536.15
  9. If you look at this picture, you will notice 2 grub screws on the back (ignore the red circle). Pretty sure you need to loosen them and the shaft comes out, cant remember how to get the rest apart, but I think its evident. Provided you are careful not to damage the wires and dont unscrew the pivot bearings it shouldn't damage anything important.
  10. From the looks of it you lossen the 2x grubscrews at the back and the shaft comes out of the main bearing housing and a couple of screws hold the plate down that holds the magnets. Cant find any dissemble photos of that part, but can see that I pulled mine apart to replace the stub and rewire, cant be too hard if I did it. Have a few pictures of removing the pivot bearings and stub, which gets a little complicated if you need.
  11. No idea, think you will need to pull that section apart to repair. Isnt there a couple of grub screws underneath? Will see if I can find any disassemble photos.
  12. Yes 'b' and 'a' are fixed and magnets get closer when moving towards + and further away when moved towards -. Been a long while since I have worked on mine, but can remember that it comes apart pretty easily. I have replaced the end stub and rewired mine and completely pulled apart. The only issue I had was dropping one of the tiny bearings, fortunately they are steel and was able to find it with a magnet.
  13. Darkroom print, ilford , dodge, burn, selenium, vanadium, heavy crop. Olympus trip 35, fp4 in d76.
  14. The only thing stone will do is make what ever your turntable is sitting on more heavy, which may help with vibration coming from the turntable stand. Best to have a very solid well anchored stand and isolate the turntable away from the speakers best you can. My stand is mounted on a wall stud that goes to a bottom plate sitting on concrete and I have sound insulation panels surrounding it. Not perfect but pretty good for what I have. You can test out how well isolated your turntable is by putting the stylus on a record without it turning and slowly turning up the volume till you get noise. The louder you go the better the isolation. You can also use this method to test for footfall. I have to jump to get any vibrations from my suspended wooden floor.
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