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rockeater

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Everything posted by rockeater

  1. Good ones obviously have negligible reactance. But others, the ones that change (or "improve") the sound, must have such non-negligible reactance if indeed they alter the sound. How else would piece of wire do it otherwise?
  2. It is bad. Always bad. Like cancer. It just is but it is always bad. Unless you do not like someone, like Rupert. Then you could reasonably think it is good. 😉 So when your cables change the sound of the system (even if you think for the better) then it is the reactance at play. Reactance purposely introduced by the manufacturer to differentiate them in the market. It can be nothing else, regardless of whether it is "the big bulge" on the cable, different dielectric used, additions to copper, anything. Good - engineering wise - cables would have
  3. If you like Arcam sound and need a spare, I have a spare Alpha 5+ and Alpha 6 that you could have. Sadly no Alpha 9 for it is going to be shipped on Monday to Singapore.
  4. These are very different beasts: Alpha 9 which I just sold today for more than double the $400 budget (for it has dCS RingDAC and PMD100 HDCD chip from Pacific Microsonics ) has: ARCAM ALPHA 9 dCS RingDAC + PMD100 KSS-240A ARCAM FMJ CD36 4 x WM8740 – AD1896A KSS-213CL is quite similar to ARCAM DIVA CD192 4 x WM8740 KSS-213CL and either should be quite decent machine. On the other hand, ARCAM FMJ CD37 WM8741 Sanyo SF-HD65 has DVD mechanism. Good luck with your hunt.
  5. Well, for the 8 pin or so, start with pre-tinning of the 8 lands on the board. Then get fresh solder wick and clean any excess solder from them. Then glue the chip onto the board and just solder quickly all of the pins with normal iron (or heat variety) without bothering about shorting pins. Then grab that solder wick again and remove the shorts and check with multimeter that: 1. there are no shorts between the pins 2. the pins of the IC actually connect to the tracks (measure on some other components to which track go) It is best to use very hot iron for short pe
  6. They can be a challenge when they happen to be in between other, much larger and taller components. If you want to have them perfectly placed, get a tiniest amount of glue to hold them perfectly in place. Then get your thin tipped soldering iron and place it for 2 seconds in such a way, that it heats up both the component and solder pad. Then just a dab of solder and you are done. After you do 10, you'll be an expert (in easy access surface mount soldering).
  7. or just go to Hifishark.com and enter the make and model in the search window... The ones made and the end of 80s and beginning of 90s have good mechanisms, which will outlast anything made in the last decade. Some of the new ones pretend to be something special by encasing the mechs in carbon fibre of aluminium billet, but inside, there is still $5 DVD mech. Well $20 mech if it is SACD. In semi-retirement I buy faulty or unwanted, underrated players (but mostly faulty) and fix them. I used to have more than 20 in stock. Lockdown in Melbourne reduced i
  8. I say who needs this tech-speak and electronic mumbo-jumbo when the new $1000 set of cables with fat bulge in the middle make treble smooth and they have a great review in Stereophile? I strongly disagree with your assertion that we should avoid reactance (both capacitive or inductive). Adjusting frequency response with reactive cables is a great way of achieving our preferred sound ever since the 90s, when the last graphic equaliser disappeared.
  9. I am tempted to grab it as a back up player for mine... GLWTS
  10. Bit of a slip of the tongue here. It is really an output for connection to DAC.
  11. Also, if you plan to buy it soon, you may find that there is no post from Japan to Australia at all. I have had 2 orders for parts cancelled because they could not ship them. 2nd of them 10 days ago. Of course big brands with deal with that or it will come on the boat, but from ebay seller, you might have difficulties.
  12. I did not really wanted it to be known that fixing things bodged by other workshops is my speciality. 😉
  13. Thx @RankStranger I thought 8000DDM was a transport and not CD player... My player bible says: AUDIOLAB 8000CDM - It's a Transport - CDM-9 Pro That is why I once asked @Marc to make it a rule to include a picture showing the back of the player, as it gives the buyer quick look at the input/output options, to see what voltages it operates on, what model variant it is exactly (for there is always a compliance sticker showing model number). But he did not think it was worthwhile to implement. I would have loved to buy it, for I fix CD players for a living, but it
  14. These are indeed very good. I remember listening to them when Kym bought them first in Perth and was very impressed. I helped him pack them then and also on our trip to Adelaide and this is definitely a two man job. GLWTS
  15. I would start by dipping your cable ends in DeOxit! and also wiping with it your speaker terminals. You will find this will be the greatest improvement in cables/connectors you can make. Unless of course your terminals were made with very thick plating of proper gold. Then the improvement will only be marginal.
  16. I can have a go at them :-) Counterpoint only has a CDM-12 Philips transport and I do not expect anything remarkable there. Roksan stuff is always very interesting. I could not find Attessa II on my list but recently I had fixed 9 Roksan units. The most interesting was Roksan ROK-Dp1 Transport. Real beauty. Will send you a link to my uTube video about it.
  17. If you can, get the older ALTIS AUDIO CDT 1, for it is the only one with good mechanism: CDM-1/MKII The more modern ones are unremarkable. Well, MKII could be good too but I have no info on it.
  18. Are you sure about this? I was always under impression that only some JFETs are like that and most do not have that capability. or the other way round
  19. Pretty much for every one for I can remove a 28 pin chip in 3 minutes with my (electric) solder extraction gun. It will look as good as new and I would pay for most of the players sporting one couple of hundred bucks anyway, even if they do not have the chip in it anymore. 😉 Good thing about this approach is that you get a 100% genuine chip, whereas buying one on eBay would probably get you one with crowns painted on them. Not so long ago, single crowns were under $200 and double were around $300 and the fact that someone wants $1000 does not mean that there are buyers..
  20. Thanks @Bill125812 Sadly, at the moment I only have Cambridge Audio DiscMagic 1. It might be designed by John Westlake from Pink Triangle and might have AES/EBU output along the standard Toslink and SPDIF but it ain't Sonic Frontiers or Classe (which BTW both only used very average mechanisms in their transports). I could not find any transports on my lists by Atoll and Primare uses the same as Cambridge Audio. But Cambridge is considered only mid-fi and I want a lot of money for it (for I like it). 😞
  21. That is exactly right. The caps there are made by Nichicon and Nippon Chemi-Con and appear to be OK.
  22. Dave, Would you consider separating them and selling just a CD player? Cheers Roman P.S. The 2nd and 3rd reviews you provided links to, are for a different players; Mk2 and Mk3 which have a different mechanism and different decoders
  23. I don't know if you've opened it up already, but the motor usually runs a belt that looks like a rubber band. Check that it hasn't come off / isn't broken as your first check. Unless it is a belt driven C.E.C. this is never the case. These belts that @ag47 talks about normally drive CD trays and clamps, not TT motors (C.E.C.s excepted). The fact that CD does not spin is virtually never a motor fault. The fact that the motor does not spin, means that one of the number of things that need to happen before you get to spinning CD, did not happen. It could still be a b
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