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About rockeater

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  1. Good ones obviously have negligible reactance. But others, the ones that change (or "improve") the sound, must have such non-negligible reactance if indeed they alter the sound. How else would piece of wire do it otherwise?
  2. It is bad. Always bad. Like cancer. It just is but it is always bad. Unless you do not like someone, like Rupert. Then you could reasonably think it is good. 😉 So when your cables change the sound of the system (even if you think for the better) then it is the reactance at play. Reactance purposely introduced by the manufacturer to differentiate them in the market. It can be nothing else, regardless of whether it is "the big bulge" on the cable, different dielectric used, additions to copper, anything. Good - engineering wise - cables would have
  3. If you like Arcam sound and need a spare, I have a spare Alpha 5+ and Alpha 6 that you could have. Sadly no Alpha 9 for it is going to be shipped on Monday to Singapore.
  4. These are very different beasts: Alpha 9 which I just sold today for more than double the $400 budget (for it has dCS RingDAC and PMD100 HDCD chip from Pacific Microsonics ) has: ARCAM ALPHA 9 dCS RingDAC + PMD100 KSS-240A ARCAM FMJ CD36 4 x WM8740 – AD1896A KSS-213CL is quite similar to ARCAM DIVA CD192 4 x WM8740 KSS-213CL and either should be quite decent machine. On the other hand, ARCAM FMJ CD37 WM8741 Sanyo SF-HD65 has DVD mechanism. Good luck with your hunt.
  5. Well, for the 8 pin or so, start with pre-tinning of the 8 lands on the board. Then get fresh solder wick and clean any excess solder from them. Then glue the chip onto the board and just solder quickly all of the pins with normal iron (or heat variety) without bothering about shorting pins. Then grab that solder wick again and remove the shorts and check with multimeter that: 1. there are no shorts between the pins 2. the pins of the IC actually connect to the tracks (measure on some other components to which track go) It is best to use very hot iron for short pe
  6. They can be a challenge when they happen to be in between other, much larger and taller components. If you want to have them perfectly placed, get a tiniest amount of glue to hold them perfectly in place. Then get your thin tipped soldering iron and place it for 2 seconds in such a way, that it heats up both the component and solder pad. Then just a dab of solder and you are done. After you do 10, you'll be an expert (in easy access surface mount soldering).
  7. or just go to Hifishark.com and enter the make and model in the search window... The ones made and the end of 80s and beginning of 90s have good mechanisms, which will outlast anything made in the last decade. Some of the new ones pretend to be something special by encasing the mechs in carbon fibre of aluminium billet, but inside, there is still $5 DVD mech. Well $20 mech if it is SACD. In semi-retirement I buy faulty or unwanted, underrated players (but mostly faulty) and fix them. I used to have more than 20 in stock. Lockdown in Melbourne reduced i
  8. I say who needs this tech-speak and electronic mumbo-jumbo when the new $1000 set of cables with fat bulge in the middle make treble smooth and they have a great review in Stereophile? I strongly disagree with your assertion that we should avoid reactance (both capacitive or inductive). Adjusting frequency response with reactive cables is a great way of achieving our preferred sound ever since the 90s, when the last graphic equaliser disappeared.
  9. I am tempted to grab it as a back up player for mine... GLWTS
  10. Bit of a slip of the tongue here. It is really an output for connection to DAC.
  11. Also, if you plan to buy it soon, you may find that there is no post from Japan to Australia at all. I have had 2 orders for parts cancelled because they could not ship them. 2nd of them 10 days ago. Of course big brands with deal with that or it will come on the boat, but from ebay seller, you might have difficulties.
  12. I did not really wanted it to be known that fixing things bodged by other workshops is my speciality. 😉
  13. Thx @RankStranger I thought 8000DDM was a transport and not CD player... My player bible says: AUDIOLAB 8000CDM - It's a Transport - CDM-9 Pro That is why I once asked @Marc to make it a rule to include a picture showing the back of the player, as it gives the buyer quick look at the input/output options, to see what voltages it operates on, what model variant it is exactly (for there is always a compliance sticker showing model number). But he did not think it was worthwhile to implement. I would have loved to buy it, for I fix CD players for a living, but it
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