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About rockeater

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  1. I have "thousands" jazz CD-Rs and only two have deteriorated over the last 2 decades and have faults on some tracks. I always had Plextor burners (have at least dozen of them still in the garage) because they always gave me excellent results and played just as good as burned ones. I haven't burned any for some years though. Recently I upgraded a Sony 300 CD Mega Storage to 400 CD unit and listed to them all twice to pick the 400 most liked. Useful in the workshop when working on stereos.
  2. and helpful may I add. I fix stuff in Perth and on occasion I had to ask about some substitute parts for one of the brands he does. He was always ready to provide assistance.
  3. I have a pair of 2905s that "I am working on" (read: they are waiting for their turn for the last 12 months or so). Rob from ER Audio is possibly better then any guru you might know, having made electrostatics for decades and being a man behind Nakamichi Dragon speakers. But as AI.M said, he will not do the labour on them and just provide the materials. The problem with fixing these things is the time it takes to clean the old glue without damaging the support structure and Rob will just not do it for you for he can make more money making his own kits. Jason Boyd is very expensive and he would probably charge around $8-$10k for the service. And that is the reason I have to do the work on mine myself (one day). 😉
  4. If you were in Perth, I would be interested in listening to it. Toshiba Aurex was a pretty good stuff in its day. It eliminated the noise when it still was an issue in the 19080s.
  5. Do a rough connections first and group the cables in functional bunches. One would be power, another RCA/XLR audio signal, yet another high speed data like HDMI and ethernet. See what lengths you need for each and then buy them. This is how mine ended up looking like: I left a bit of slack to facilitate movement for working on them (connecting / disconnecting new things): Terminating RCA/XLR/power/ethernet is easy but not so for HDMI or USB as there is a limited selection available. Power cables are available in 0.5m, 0.75, 1m and multiples of those for less than $1 a piece. So are ethernet cables. HDMI cost about $5 to $10 depending on length. These are wholesale prices and if you cannot access them, become friends with someone who can. Like any electrician and or computer tech. Hope it helps. Roman
  6. They have been recommended to me, so I will see if they are for me.
  7. I am a tech from Wanneroo and if you were to bring it over and I could check it, I'd pay cash on the spot if it is not totally fried. Cheers Roman
  8. I love soundbars! Just bought another one. I use them under my computer monitors and they are very good for watching uTube videos. Like how to improve your table tennis serve.
  9. Neither has mine. But I replace tips in my Weller, choosing no 7 for light work and no 8 for big jobs. Additionally shape and mass of the tip also is selected for how big surface area to be worked on is.
  10. Certainly not because you used silver solder. There is only 2% or so of silver in it anyway. In the old days, they told us to use it on RF power transistors and later, surface mount components. Basic problem with soldering is, that you really need 3 hands; one for holding the stuff, one for the iron and one to feed solder. Until genetic engineering fixes that and manufactures 3 handed technicians, the solution is: Get some vice or other immobilizing device for your work, so that you have 2 hands free. Once the job to be joined is placed together and does not move, put soldering iron to it for a second or two and then feed solder and let it flow. The moment there is just enough of it - stop. If the solder does not flow, your iron is not hot enough for the amount of metal you are trying to warm up. Change the tip for a hotter one for it is better to have a hotter tip and use it for shorter time than heat everything around with colder tip for long time. This destroys components/melts connectors. Another words, your problem is not with soldering but with immobilizing your items to be joined together. Hope it helps. If you were in Perth, I would do one for you to show you, and then watch you do the rest. Roman P.S. Before you immobilize your work, prepare it properly, so that the exposed lengths of wire are correct, and that they reach terminals and also the insulated bit of cable can be held properly by strain relief.
  11. Nath, Normally, I would suspect a muting circuit. The one that mutes the output between tracks and before audio starts flowing. It is either done with relays or with special transistors that can sink a lot of current fast. In this unit I think muting is done within IC6304 (SAA7220) and your culprit is the headphone jack which sends KILL signal to the audio board and shorts the output. Quick check is to try its digital output which should still be working if my theory is right. Hope it helps. Roman
  12. Hopefully. I have paid for it 😊
  13. I will have it if I can. pm sent
  14. I fully agree with your comments that you have edited out. I have just fixed another CD-85 and it had problem with Philips brand 47µF/25V capacitors. I replaced 7 or 8 of them in the power supply and the player worked fine after that. But thee was 20 more of them on the main board, so I had to replace all of them too. It is my normal practise that when I find one faulty capacitor, I will at random remove couple more and if any of them show any weakness, all of that type have to go. Interestingly, other capacitors were not affected. Not only ELNA Cerafine or plain vanilla ELNAs were fine but also other values of Philips caps. Must have been a faulty batch of those 47µF.
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