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About JohnL

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  • Birthday 21/05/1963

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  1. I got my double width 3 shelf powder coated steel rack with wooden shelves from Whatmough back in the day and highly recommend it if they still do it. I assume they ordered them in but I don't know who from. If Whatmough no longer do racks they may at least provide the manufacturers details for you. Anyway...........think I paid around $500-$750 and simply added some IKEA Aptitlig blocks. https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/aptitlig-butchers-block-bamboo-60233431/
  2. My summary would be: PQ matters most.....🙂 PS..........Panasonic didn't make Kuro's!!!!.........LOL
  3. Everyone calling it DSP when it's DPS!!!!..............LOL Tried pricey 7N cable before (Acrolink 7N P4020iii) and didn't work for me. FWIW...........have had great results with Gigawatt (solid core) and DIY Belden 83803 (both with Furutech connectors) Would be interesting to know how all abovementioned cables would measure on ikhuongs EMF Meter Nice work........🙂
  4. Funny how more $ thrown at it usually makes the problem go away!!!! Congrats and enjoy.
  5. Kaynin, What about this? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-AUDYSSEY-Sub-Equalizer-Featuring-MultEQ-XT-SUBEQ/282956534940?hash=item41e186149c:g:RsgAAOSwRZ1a7Ka5
  6. Apparently to allow for the increased number crunching required for ATMOS they dropped Audyssey XT32 for the less demanding Accu-EQ but I haven't heard it so can't really answer your question. I believe it only corrects the front end and maybe only from mid range frequencies down (not 100% sure) Have a look here........https://www.avsforum.com/threads/accueq-vs-audyssey.1580129/ At least you have another option from Huntsman if desired.
  7. Integra DRC-R1.1 https://integraworldwide.com/au/products/drcr1/index.htm Should be able to get this one for around $4K https://klappav.com.au/collections/integra/products/drc-r1-1b-11-2-channel-network-pre-amp-processor My much older (great sounding) 80.3 does subs independently and after checking the manuaI I am pretty sure this one does too. https://www.manualslib.com/products/Integra-Drc-R1-1-8899843.html
  8. Sometimes "horses for courses" is a better way to go. At least you have a good option in P11's and I admire your open mind and staying positive. Make sure to get them on decent stands at the right height and you may be surprised. You could always wire the sub in if you feel bass quantity/depth is lacking but I think bass quality may even improve!!! At the end of the day most of us are forced to compromise to some degree.....🙂 Good Luck with the Rotel too. FWIW..........I think it's a better way to go than passive bi amping.
  9. callanS, Had the same speaker front end as you back in the day. Used an older Elektra 6 x 150W to good effect but................ ...............as long as you are using that front end layout in that room you are really compromising SQ. Hifiplus is spot on...........can you possibly swing everything around 180 degrees? Is there another room you could use? If no to all the above then a set of stand mounts will probably work better in there. Same Whatmough Model as your rears maybe???? I don't think more power is the answ
  10. Nothing to do with Phase. Sub distance (delay) will usually measure longer. This is a common knowledge Audyssey thing...........nothing to worry about. Ignore distance reading for Sub as Audyssey is actually measuring the correct amount of delay to apply for accurate time alignment. See here...... https://audyssey.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212340243-Long-subwoofer-distance https://audyssey.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212347803-Subwoofer-Distance http://www.willowville.net/ht/Audyssey Setup Guide.pdf Regarding Phase......select
  11. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ballajura/speakers/for-sale-osborn-grand-epitome-reference-loudspeakers/1256688155 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brookfield/speakers/osborn-epitome-mk-iv-full-size-reference-monitor-loudspeakers/1255159603
  12. I highly recommend Gigawatt gear. https://absolutehiend.com/index.php/product/power-conditioners/gigawatt.html
  13. AFAIK voices don't drop below 80hz........... but if that's your approach that's cool. However you have then given the big speakers that go low in your system subs.............. but the small rears, that would have potentially benefitted more, got nothing which probably explains what you are hearing. A big, fat front end and thinner, weaker rears!!!! Anyway.........as long as all your settings are correct I think your gear is fine and don't see a need to change the AVR...... May as well just get another set of ats5's as you mention and/or another
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