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GregWormald last won the day on April 24 2012

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About GregWormald

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  1. Good luck--I've never even heard of such a thing. All tone controls I've seen/used were part of the main preamp.
  2. You are missing the fact that many record companies have only just realised the internet exists. A couple of years ago I was after a recording but the company's web site was so bad that there was no way at all that it could be found--even though I had a picture of the cover. I eventually went elsewhere. One artist I know has taken all the distribution rights to herself and sells CDs and downloads from her own site. The downloads are cheaper than the CD 'cause the costs are less to her. Is it any wonder some record companies are in financial difficulty?
  3. When I sent my Linn Troika with 1200 LPs played to be reconditioned, I was told after inspection that it could go for another 400 or so before damage was likely to be caused. I had it done anyway. BTW--Cleaner records = less wear, so now I clean ultrasonically--(it's an audible improvement)--and am hopefully looking at more than 1500 LP plays.
  4. Get yourself a little golf stroke counter and start to keep track of how many LPs on the stylus. While wear rates differ, as do longevity estimates, it will at least give you a general idea of the time used.
  5. This. The part of the diamond stylus that actually rides the grooves is a very small bit at the extreme end. To see wear takes a reasonable microscope.
  6. I can imagine that noise in the car would soon become a non-issue. Many of the new sports car drivers in the US complain that they are loud compared to their usual giant insulated couches--while I find mine quite quiet. Noise at slow speeds for pedestrians is also likely to be compulsory. After all, you can't expect pedestrians to look up from their 'phones to SEE if a car is coming as they cross the road.
  7. It might not be worth it for the M20E. I don't know of anybody here. You might try asking Jim Tate Stereo (Linn dealer) although I suspect he would not like the idea at all. I sent mine to Audio Origami in Glasgow UK. I found him to be exceptionally knowledgeable and helpful. He rewired it, checked it out completely, made a special long cable and did the foam fill. He later repaired the wiring free when I was really stupid😬and stuffed it up.
  8. The LVII is an excellent arm--and can be substantially upgraded by Audio Origami if wanted--(I am an enthusiastic customer.) I'm not an expert on the arm/cartridge combinations but someone should be along shortly with ideas about matching compliance etc.
  9. Yes. (Sorry.) It is however often specific to models, not just brands. Unfortunately the usual reviews of amps rarely include the headphone performance, so even good general performance in a vintage amp may not tell you anything about the headphone socket. Do connect to some of the headphone specific forums where you can possibly get information about the amps in which you are interested.
  10. Be careful, the built-in headphone sockets in very many amps are cheap and nasty compared to a dedicated headphone amp.
  11. I have a Fidelity Research FRT-3 that is surplus to requirements. You can trial it for the cost of postage. Let me know.
  12. Felt can be quite abrasive. If what you are doing gets good results then keep it up. My cleaner came with a special nozzle much like what you've made, but with some velvet-like microfibre that touches the whole surface--no scratches at all. I use the same shop vac.😀
  13. I've just got 4-5 episodes into "Lucifer" and am finding it quite entertaining. It's not 'significant' in any way but I do enjoy the (IMO) better than average writing. Interestingly the ratings on Rotten Tomatoes start out very average for the first year and then go stratospheric.
  14. Distilled (or demineralised) water. A half-->one teaspoon of a surface tension reducer--photographic, or dishwasher rinse aid, or even a clear dish detergent (if nothing else is available). Some commercial or pharmaceutical grade alcohol (ethyl or isoproply)--up to 1 cup in a 5 litre tank. (Some say this is optional.) Some say you have to filter, some say you don't. Some say filter after every record/session.) I don't--when the water leaves stuff on the record, I change the water. Some way of drying the record. (Leaving the water to evaporate enables some dissolved garbage to solidify back on the surface and the wet surface will collect dust. I use a slotted tube covered with velvet-like microfibre attached to a wet-dry shop vacuum which does the job in 30-40 seconds.) ps--forget eBay for isopropyl, search for commercial chemical suppliers.
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