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Warren Jones

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About Warren Jones

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    Warren

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  1. I'd 2nd the Technics SP10, even the Mk2 is an amazing TT with a good plinth and arm.............
  2. A quick lesson on electrical current flow. The cable/wire job is to have minimal voltage drop from one end to the other. Cables have some resistance albeit very small. There are other things happening in the cable like a magnetic field that rotates around the cable, this is why cables can pick up stray noise, so it's a good idea never to run signal and power cables parallel to each other and if they need to cross do so at 90deg. We are dealing with audio frequencies not RF so any copper cable larger than 1mm OD will suffice for power levels to around 100watts with a cable length of less than 5m. Every trained certified technician I know does not use expensive speaker cables. In fact my speaker cables are 1mm solid 2 core 240v light cable from Bunnnings. Connectors are more important that the cable. They do not have to be solid gold or iridium they just need to make good connection. I use Nakamichi RCA's with screw locking and 2 core microphone cable for my interconnects. Speaker leads no connectors just copper wire inserted in the screw terminals of the amp and speakers. Lead from turntable to phono pre also uses a guard, this is where the shield is connected to ground at ONE END only. Cables are NOT directional unless they have a diode or other components in their length. Speakers are voltage driven transducers. The amplifier presents a voltage across the driver and the driver draws X current to move the cone. Bi wiring is a effectively useless no matter what anybody says. Anyone hearing difference is just placebo. Bi amping on the other hand with the Xover before the power amp and removed from the speakers IS worth the effort and the difference is clearly audible AND MEASURABLE. IMD reduces with bi amping because NO amplifier is perfectly linear. IMD produces sidebands on the 2 fundamental frequencies.
  3. I am not going to get into this too much except to say that music is AC so current flow will be bidirectional. Electrons do not care whether they flow in copper or a coat hanger. Sorry I have been repairing electronics professionally for 40 years including repairing high end audio for an OEM.
  4. A very high quality DIY tonearm is certainly possible. The first pic was a quick and dirty prototype. I was surprised at how good this thing sounded, considering it cost me under $50.00. most stuff is available at Bunnings but I already had off cuts I used. The only things I bought were the small bearings, 8mm pyrex tubes and 6mm carbon rod. It sounds so good I left it on the TT. It out performs my Technics EPA100, which toasted the Rega RB808. The 2nd pic is my more refined but not quite finished linear tonearm, with the SP10 plinth specifically designed for this arm. The arm slides back on industrial quality linear rails to facilitate easy record changes.
  5. As an old technician I would not recommend lifting the mains earth, doing so could put 240V mains on the chassis in a fault condition. First disconnect the RCA input, does the sub still hum. How long is the RCA lead to the sub? if it's long, hum may be induced into the RCA cable try re-routing the RCA cable and NEVER run signal and mains cables parallel to each other.
  6. Referring to me I guess. Unfortunately that was not my experience with a brand new RP8 and Apheta that replaced an LP12 I bought new in 1983 while working as a bench technician for Marantz (Superscope), I'm not one to have multiple TT's or change for the sake of it. The Apheta after 24hrs of use had the bottom fall off and started to miss track, so I upgraded to the Apheta 2, at this stage I had the best part of $8k invested. Maybe I expected too much from the RP8. I put up with the Rega for 5 years trying everything I knew to get it working as it should before I sold the whole shooting match and bought an SP10 this TT will go the grave with me, I love it, the Rega was not even close in terms of enjoyment.
  7. I think another part of the problem is all the experience used to master and press vinyl back in its heyday is gone. I bought a couple of new LP's and was unimpressed with the quality. So I only buy old LP's pre 1990's when the industry started to digitally master vinyl. I remember reading an interview with Doug Sax who said a digitally mastered LP is the worst of both worlds. He also went on to say mastering for CD he would only use analog master tapes. Interesting because I read another interview with a mastering engineer (who's name escapes me) who had experimented with digital recordings and found adding a small amount of tape hiss to the final recording made a huge improvement to the perceived sound.
  8. That's not burn in, that is thermal stabilization which is a valid phenomenon. When electronic equipment is calibrated it is turned on and left to thermally stabilize before any measurement data is taken. I have a Pass Labs Xono clone and I leave it turned on all the time for this reason. It does make a difference. My Jfet buffer preamp I can measure the DC offset drift as the amp warms up, once up to operating temp the DC offset is less than 100uV.
  9. If you can stretch to the VM540ML over the AT95 the the additional 8dB channel separation is audible.
  10. IMO I would go with the LP7 over the P3 any day, I have had Rega and found the quality control be somewhat lacking, my Apheta 1 fell apart after less than 20 hours. Marry it to either an AT95ML or VM540ML. The Rega Exact does not have a user replaceable stylus you have to replace the hole cartridge.
  11. I'll add my 2c. I traded my LP12 on an RP8/Apheta and was bitterly disappointed. I would not touch another Rega product again. quality issues aside the TT was awful and when I sold it was almost new, very little use. I now have a Technics and very happy. There is an SL1200 in QLD on eBay for $900 IMO this will be a better buy than a Rega. Add an AT95 with good stylus and you're set.
  12. Current turntable with prototype linear arm. Surprising how good the agricultural arm is. As good as the Technics EPA100 in most respects and way better in bass response. Turntable under construction
  13. Even if the transformer has a 3pin plug the TT will not so the TT chassis is NOT grounded. If the TT is not double insulated (indicated by a box in a box on the power label) the chassis must be grounded to mains ground, otherwise if you have a fault in the TT the mains breaker most likely WILL NOT TRIP, eg the active shorts to the chassis and you touch the chassis you might not get second chance. All Japanese gear I have seen does not have an earth wire. When I worked at Marantz they bought a heap of old Jap stock and I had to replace all the power cords with 3 wire and earth the chassis these were all amps. For TA ground yes C
  14. I have a Technics SP10 that is Japanese, so no mains earth in the power lead from the TT power supply. If your TT is not double insulated like mine you can use a 3pin mains plug and just connect earth wire to TT and earth pin in plug and plug into power point. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS NOT TO CONNECT EARTH TO EITHER ACTIVE OT NEUTRAL.
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