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bbar

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About bbar

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  1. bbar

    HT Upgrades

    Thanks Al, good stuff to know. Experience is worth everything in this game! Too much snake oil Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Would not hurt but not sure the denon can do active bi-amping also not sure your fronts are set up for active bi-amping
  3. Re bi-amp. There are types, one which requires the processor to provide the crossover logic and the other uses the crossovers in the speaker assembly. I was referring to the latter as per this explanation. It is referred to as passive bi-amping to reduce the load, with little or no audible improvement. As I stead earlier I am not a proponent of this. Passive Bi-amping Passive bi-amping utilizes the passive crossovers built into the speakers, with each amplifier channel reproducing a full range signal to drive separate high and low frequency networks. Relative to active bi-amping, the benefits of passive bi-amping are much less pronounced (you might hear the derogatory term of “fool’s bi-amping” applied). Nonetheless, splitting the high and low frequency networks does have some effect, as the amplifiers each now see a different load than one would under normal circumstances when individually driving the entire speaker. Generally speaking, the individual networks are designed such that “out of band” frequencies will have a very high impedance relative to the expected pass band of the driver(s), and consequently will demand significantly less actual power from the amplifier at those out of band frequencies. Because of this split, there are a couple practical advantages. Potential output ability is increased as there is little power wasted reproducing those aforementioned “out of band” frequencies. As with active bi-amping, the possibility of tweeter burnout due to amplifier overload is also reduced. However, in terms of basic audible differences, there’s not much to write home about, and what improvements do exist could typically be gained by simply utilizing a single more powerful amplifier with similar or better performance metrics than the two smaller amplifiers. Passive Bi-amping Diagram
  4. Lol, I think you have answered your own question. If you want the best sound then a used 3 channel parasound is the way to go. The Emotiva amp is fine but the parasound is a few notches up. I have not tested but have read those that have tested both and view is the mid range is better detailed and the bass is much punchier with the parasound. i bought my A5 second hand 3 years ago and it has performed reed flawlessly. it will provide ample power for your front stage and the AVR will also handle the rest with ease.
  5. I have mixed views on Bi-amping. It is not quite as you think unless the kef speakers do something different. speakers have crossovers between low frequency and high frequency drivers. At the crossover they can be joined to separate speaker poles . The high frequency and low frequency speaker poles are then connected with bars connecting the positives together and another bar connecting the negatives together. this allows a single speaker wire connection to the speaker as the bar then connects to both the low and high frequency speakers. take the bar off and you then bi-wire which means you run 2 sets of speaker wires to each speaker. Now bass drivers take significantly more power than tweeters . As such taking off the high frequency onto a separate amp channel does not remove a lot from the bass frequency connection. to be clear you do not double power into speakers. You seoerate the low and high frequency speakers and give each an amp channel. personally I would not do it unless it is a three way crossover and mid range and high range are together and even then I am not sure. as stated above bass takes the most power. These are THX speakers and I would set up the processor crossover for bass at 80hz even if they can go lower. This would send all bass below 80hz to your subwoofer and leave speakers to deal with all frequencies above. This is a THX recommendation . would reduce load on the AVR amps and possibly more than bi-amping. if you still want more power then go the emotiva or parasound route.
  6. bbar

    HT Upgrades

    Thanks Al. Been reading your atmos journey. Where did you end up placing speakers re listening position. I see can be between 30 and 45 degrees and I assume that whatever you chose for fronts you placed the backs at the same.
  7. Maybe I should buy it as no way could get into uhd and atmos cheaper...!!
  8. bbar

    HT Upgrades

    Will go read your atmos journey. Interested also if you went in-ceiling as read somewhere that depending on placement one needed 2700mm height ceilings plus to get proper dispersion of the sound. Can't remember where I read snd I think they recommended the speakers that bounced sound off the ceiling for ceilings of 2400mm. Would have been perfect in theatre room I had as ceilings were 3 meters. Re calibration on pj. Reason for cal at 100 hours is that red comes in very strong on a new lamp and it takes about 100 hours to tame. Calibrators recommend waiting 100 hours before doing first calibration. And yes, at 500 hours on my Jvcs there was more of a change in the gamma than colour or greyscale. Colour was probably within tolerances but I liked it at 99% plus accurate. Greyscale wasn't bad but needed a tune-up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. That is excellent. Agree, no big deal re front hdmi . Plenty in back. And at a price that is too good to be true. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. All great advice. The denon avr 7200 at 2,000 is a great deal. It should meet your needs power wise and is a flagship processor with excellent dacs. It will not disappoint. You will just need to purchase the two upgrades for dts-x if you want it and hdcp 2.2. I believe you need the latter for UHD blu-ray playback. And as Al says, you can decide on amplification in the future with or without a 2 channel pre-amp with Ht Bypass. You will meet your budget now and have a flagship processor with incredible sound. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. As per snoopy and I would add, if you listen to 2 channel music then A23 . If not then emotiva to keep front stage same. It is almost the question - what is better than best? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. I am sure it will be fine. The front stage is probably the most important to have the same timbre and you have that plus the atmos speakers which is an added bonus. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Hard to answer. One would hope that the parasound amp would deliver a better sound than the AVR amps. I have found this to be true with both parasound amp, Elektra and Elektra HD amps (au amp) using matched 7.1 speaker configuration. Tested with Yamaha and then denon 4311 AVR's Never tried mixing so cannot say impact. Also not sure re your speakers as fronts and atmos speakers are the R series speakers whilst the surround rears are not. That could also change timbre between the rears and the rest. Getting more power is good. Left and right fronts usually take the most power so giving them a high rated amp is the logical choice. Also best for music as well as HT as they are the workhorse speakers. Center used for voice though they are also used for moving effects. The next best is an A51 amp and do front stage and surrounds and have the atmos heights on the AVR. That would eliminate timbre changes across the front and rear stages given the different rear speakers have close to the same timbre. If you intend to go to high end processor in future with high end power amps then the A51 is the way to go as your next upgrade would be another A51 and then a dedicated processor. High end amps last a very,very long time. Processors change when new audio formats come out. I have had avrs that I used with my amps as well as onkyo and marantz reference processors. Upgraded the processors but kept the amp. Best ht audio I have had was the marantz 880x processor with a separate amp. If cashed out then stay with AVR and when you get the extra cash then get the parasound A51 and put front and rear stages on it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. I would go with the a23 as your left and right speakers are 4ohms and will need the power. Will definitely help and the AVR would handle the rest which are 8ohms with ease. I have a parasound Halo 5 channel amp and am very pleased with it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. bbar

    HT Upgrades

    Hi Al, I agree that proper setup can make or break the viewing experience. And stores probably have everything turned up to Max. We use HDR on most of our pics and yes if done properly definitely enhances the picture. We protect shadows and use a subtle setting. Higher settings can make the pic look unnatural. We use perfecteffect from ON1 addon into photoshop. So yes agree if done properly. Bit like the Darby was. Set properly it enhanced the picture. Re JVC, will say I loved their PJ's, even with the shortened lamp life. I was definitely one for calibration and kept it as close to spot on as I could. Gamma was always correctable. It just seemed to drift farther snd farther off course with lamp wear. Colour drift worst after 100 hours then slow drifting after that. Red drops most in first 100 hours. Probably because it is over saturated at the beginning. Greyscale also drifted gently through time. Again, my time was every 300 hours, which was every 4-5 months....lol Loved the PJ, but the TV is ok. Will go 4K hdr route in the next couple years I suspect. Maybe a 70 inch panel. Yes saw you went atmos. Did you go in-ceilings or atmos speakers that bounce sound off the ceiling? To me this would be the major drive to UHD. That plus the enhanced colour space. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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