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  1. @mwhouston asked for some enclosure info in another thread, so I'll note it here: Blog posts about the enclosure, which I estimated at 131.3 Litre, with two 24cm bass reflex ports: https://minirig.org.au/2014/03/13/bass-reflex-enclosures-for-the-lorantz-woofers-now-underway https://minirig.org.au/2014/03/16/enclosures-for-the-lorantz-woofers-assembled-and-now-making-sound-at-last measurement made of just the bass driver in the enclosure with no EQ except the crossover function https://pix.minirig.org.au/main.php?g2_itemId=6442 plus other measurements made with EQ added.... dumping ground of photos made during assembly: https://pix.minirig.org.au/main.php?g2_itemId=4309&g2_page=14
  2. DIY audio: what are you building?

    I may have to revise that, I am using quite a bit of miniDSP EQ on my regular settings, I have a no EQ measurement here https://pix.minirig.org.au/main.php?g2_itemId=6442 and I just added a whole bunch of links about the enclosure to the "main thread" where I discussed this system a while back..... There's a fairly long thread at it doesn't have all the cabinet info but I'll add it to the end, plus some other links (I have quite a lot!)
  3. DIY audio: what are you building?

    That's better than the price I found online years ago! I dug up some RoomEQWizard files done with my mic and 27Hz from inroom measurements.
  4. DIY audio: what are you building?

    @mwhouston Yes - that was me! fun night. I got the bass drivers from ebay second hand, they would have been out of my budget otherwise. But they are Lorantz 15″ C390X B1 drivers (made in Dandenong) Manufacturers specs here: http://www.tubeaudio.com.au/content/lorantz/A-C390X-B1-8.pdf My measurements (which were close) https://minirig.org.au/2013/06/02/cabinet-ideas-for-the-lorantz-c390x-b1-8-woofer
  5. DIY audio: what are you building?

    Great stuff, I have a TDA7297 amp I use as the HF component in my active system sometimes, its a great little amp for a handful of dollars. Very low idle power use as well. I'm using one of those cheapo PCBs from ebay though. I did buy some better designed boards but have yet to get around tuit (plus I'm over supplied in small amps). I have just decided to jump back into some light semi DIY audio hobbying and have purchased a Texas Instruments evaluation board for the TPA3255 chip (there is a special on right now), which is newer Class D chip to replace my IRS2092 based L.F. amp in my active system. Not completely DIY as the board is already assembled, but I do have to sort out the wiring and power supply and stuff.
  6. Electronic currently spinning

    new bandcamp release from Melbourne act Random Acts Of Elevator Music, I like it: ambient bleep bleep atmospherics Random Acts Of Elevator Music
  7. Will this crossover work?

    Always been curious what running up a straightforward Xover using some measurement and application of PCD or similar would deliver with those Jaycar drivers :-) PCD = http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/PCD.html
  8. Klipsch K402 replica build

    yeah, amazing work and thanks for documenting!
  9. For $10 and an SD card I might give it a burl.. my very simple "old school unix" Raspbian/mpd setup has been great for years now, but curious to see how much the software can improve things. Does this run OK on an older R-Pi? (mine is the model B 512M RAM one)
  10. I just replaced my mechanical optical toslink switch (like the one in mentioned in the first post) with a low cost unit from ebay, as the vigorous movement the mechanical switch needed sometimes caused the cables to move around and work loose. www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Port-4x1-SPDIF-Toslink-Digital-Optical-Audio-Switch-Switcher-5-Years-Warranty-/263160766994 works OK. no power supply, but powered from USB, so I just powered it from an unused USB port on my TV. the cheap remote control is very directional, you have to be right in front of it. BRIGHT BLUE LED - fixed with some tape. as it is very light the 4 cables going into it don't permit it to sit flat, so I had to use a small plastic clamp to hold it in place.
  11. External cross overs

    On the speakers with the crossovers I posted earlier I still use them in passive mode, as they have been relegated to the bedroom and I want to minimise amps and cables and stuff. But my experiment with active crossover on them (miniDSP) led to me making a larger active system. My active system is MUCH more sensitive to amp (and pre-amp) noise, I really have to be picky with amps for it due to the additional sensitivity, plus obviously twice the amps and cabling (2 way system). All my systems are all digital source (except for one "guest input" for visiting DJs :-) ) so the A->D stuff mentioned above is not an issue for me.
  12. External cross overs

    I put my "econowave" speaker crossovers in external boxes to make it easy to dabble with active crossovers. They have been fine mounted in $5 jiffy boxes. No heat issues. It does mean there's extra "stuff" to deal with hanging around behind the speaker boxes...
  13. An old thread but I'll just mention I have the Jaycar unit and it is OK for my purposes. Though sometimes I have to give the mechanical switch a bit of a flick for it to click into place properly. I am using it as an input to a miniDSP active crossover that reclocks and resamples the input so it might be quite forgiving of the signal it is fed however. edit: I see Jaycar have discontinued the mechanical switch and replaced it with an active unit: https://www.jaycar.com.au/3-way-toslink-switch-with-ir/p/AC1594
  14. Time to finalise?

    My econowave Xovers in the tuning phase, a couple of years ago.. though I later spoiled the magic by assembling them into the PCBs seen at the bottom.