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About almikel

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  1. the size/volume (litres/mm^3) of the box doesn't relate well to the capability of a sub. A sub's capability relates to the SPL required at your target frequency, and whether you have enough driver excursion and amp power to hit that target. Smaller boxes = more power required Smaller drivers = more excursion required The same driver will have the same excursion in different sized boxes if matched to the same SPL, just different power required to get there... ...all things being equal, go for bigger drivers - they won't require as much excursion to
  2. thanks @warweary - greatly appreciated ! ...I thought it was something audio related...I should have done an interweb slang search
  3. you try everything to get rid of hum...and sometimes you don't actually know "why" it stopped, just very glad it did...my background/education is in electronics engineering...earth loops/hum suck big time and are hard to track down/isolate/fix...
  4. image copied from Rod Elliot's site on the change in Xover freq when you change the gain of the bass amp wrt to the next amp up ( https://sound-au.com/bi-amp2.htm ) You can see what happens to the crossover point - I'm not sure what happens to phase, but likely not ideal. Mike
  5. agreed - there is no change to corner frequencies. By increasing the volume of the bass amp, where the low pass and high pass cross increases in frequency... ...I've never considered phase regarding crossovers without equal amplitude...much easier on the brain with equal amplitudes...
  6. From a DIY perspective I'm a big fan of sealed bass drivers - they're much easier to design/build...and they pretty much deliver what the spreadsheet/design tool says they will...when ported/passive radiator/other designs can take some tweaking... ...where sealed bass drivers often need help is in the bottom end - the natural rolloff in their enclosure is not low enough. If the driver is below it's Xmax (max linear excursion), then a bit of EQ can assist - it doesn't have to be DSP - Siegfried designed the Linkwitz Transform (LT) before DSP existed. I run Acoustic Eleganc
  7. nice work Reading your post that's what I would have expected (ie RCA and XLR's both have outputs) Mike
  8. my sympathies - earth loops/hum are such a pain to pin down - try @markielinhart' suggestion...I ran out of good ideas after you'd tried disconnecting the earth lead to the pre-amp....but I find them so annoying, I'd go back to your old cartridge, and hopefully the hum goes.... ...best wishes Mike
  9. Hi Steve which "things" do I talk about that might be "theoretically correct, but do not translate in a listening assessment"? I've listened to lots of commercial 3 ways and a few well designed Econowaves, as well as my own PSE144's/TD18"s - based on my listening assessment any design that manages pattern control well sounds better "in room" than a box speaker. One of the Econowaves I've listened to had a 15" mid woofer, the other a 12" - both had excellent mid bass - way better than most "typical" 3 ways with 8" woofers or smaller Have you listen
  10. I had always planned to build a 2nd sub - I've got all the bits for a small sealed "filler" sub - driver/amp/sheets of plywood/available output from the pre-amp etc...I just need to make sawdust...but the performance from my single "heavy lifter" sub produces pretty smooth bass across my listening couch and my lazy DIY gene kicks in... ...from my perspective a well integrated sub works spectacularly...and mine didn't cost a lot, the plywood/drivers/amps was < AUD$1000 for a dual 12" tapped horn sub. Plenty of effort went into integrating it with my mains, but the result is
  11. Have any of them paid any attention to their off-axis frequency response? ie deliberately designed the off-axis response to follow the on-axis response, but falling off as you go further off axis? A key criteria for "good sounding speakers" is a smooth on and off axis frequency response - plenty of research backs this. Box speakers with drivers mounted to a flat baffle cannot achieve a smooth off axis response - woofers have a narrowing pattern at higher frequencies towards crossover (beaming), a tweeter's pattern widens as you go lower towards crossover - the same thing happe
  12. I disagree - not many of us can afford the very best and need to compromise - when all things are considered and IMHO especially the off-axis response of a speaker is important, the pattern control of a 2 way waveguided tweeter crossing to a mid woofer will be superior to a box 3 way. Do they publish the polar patterns of their speakers? I've never had the chance to listen to any of them, but pictures of their speakers lead me to think that pattern control is not a priority for any of those manufacturers. Mike
  13. The dispersion/directivity control of a well designed 2 way with a waveguide loaded tweeter crossing to a large mid woofer (eg Econowave, Geddes, some of the Red Spade designs) will be superior to any box 3 way. I disagree with this - I accept that good integration between mains and subs isn't trivial - but IMHO, 1 or more subs is important to achieve smooth "in room" bass, especially across multiple listening positions. I'm being cheeky - but surely Peter Walker's ESL57's would make it to the list of "really good speaker design"? I completely agree
  14. if you didn't muck with EQ on the remote, they won't need resetting...but I tweak the EQ on my remote all the time, and I've made the rookie mistake of adjusting room EQ without setting the remote EQ flat first literally loads of times...and I'll likely do it again...usually sometime during the woop woops I'll remember to check that the remote EQ is flat, and start over. cheers Mike
  15. 2 way doesn't have to be 2 way "bookshelf" speaker as mentioned above by @mwhouston "Bang for buck", I'm I big fan of the "Econowave" approach - a properly designed 2 way "Econowave" speaker with a decent compression driver tweeter in a waveguide crossing to a large midbass driver (say around 10"-18") will sound better "in room" than any bookshelf speaker with a tweeter without a waveguide crossing to a woofer... ...the "off-axis" response of "typical" box speakers where a dome tweeter crosses to a a woofer is always ragged/uneven - as the tweeter polar response widens at l
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