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almikel

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About almikel

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    Brisbane
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    Australia
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    Mike

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  1. IOW the device itself is quite transparent. agreed - you can easily apply EQ that will ruin the sound. Changes made to the frequency response are easily discernible by the ear - not quite so intuitive is that low Q bumps/dips (broad) are more audible than high Q bumps/dips (sharp/steep). Learning how to apply EQ, and when not to apply EQ is the challenge, whether with DEQX or any other device. cheers Mike
  2. I’ve always found my DEQX to be completely transparent when dialed in properly
  3. for absorption to be effective at low frequencies they need to be large/deep, with the absorption placed where air particle velocity is highest. Absorption works based on slowing down air particle velocity - which is highest at wavelength/4 from a rigid boundary. At low frequencies (say <150Hz), wavelengths are long - Velocity = frequency x wavelength, where velocity is the speed of sound (343m/s). Traps need to be big, otherwise the long wavelengths just go around them. Traps need to be deep to slow the air particles Traps need to be placed where air particle
  4. No requirement to "seal" anything...just build a movable panel of say 200mm deep "fluffy" absorption to place across the alcove the same size as the alcove opening. "Bass traps" using absorption need to be large with a decent air gap to work at low frequencies - your alcove provides an opportunity for an air gap deep enough for an absorption trap to actually be effective <150Hz or so. My post above made no reference to sub placement - place them as needed for the smoothest "in room" bass cheers Mike
  5. I completely agree with this. I disagree with this... These below I agree with I completely get that people choose to use expensive interconnects/cables - the more expensive the more transparent they should be...on my budget Blue Jeans is as transparent as I can afford. If I want to change the sound, I use speaker/listening position changes, room treatment or EQ. I expect my system components to have a flat frequency response and minimal noise (source/pre-amp/amps/interconnects/speaker cables),
  6. it is a PITA to do outdoor measurements, but IMHO worth it. You only have to do it once, as best as you can possibly do, then you can do as many "calibrations" as you want afterwards based on a really good measurement. A really good measurement means outdoors, as high off the ground as you can (safely) achieve (so the ground reflection is as far from the main impulse as possible), and other boundaries are as far away as possible....for open baffle that includes rear boundaries...note in the measurement rig above, the PSE144 is a 2 way point source horn, so the house behind wou
  7. IMHO - no Just prior to that PSE 144 speaker measurement I was planning to do my own measurement outdoors, but leaving amps and DEQX inside, which would have required joining up 2 microphone cables, and very long speaker leads - it would have been fine, and much easier than lugging everything outdoors... ...wasn't required in the end as I used the measurements from the session in the photo. Mike
  8. I've never tried to calibrate open baffle speakers - but my recollection of a conversation with Alan when someone asked about open baffle was that an outdoor measurement with nothing behind the speakers for some distance would be preferable. As Satanica says, you want to measure/calibrate the speaker response with as close to an anechoic environment as possible. ^ this is a good idea I don't think so - increasing sweep length, number of sweeps and level (keeping below distortion), will increase measurement accuracy - you then use "windowing" in the calibratio
  9. Get a measurement rig - Laptop running Room Eq Wizard (REW is free), measurement microphone (lots use the U-mike) and a decent mic stand with a boom (the boom makes it much easier to get the mic into places like corners or where your head would be in the listening position)
  10. I've set global EQ based on the room, and a room curve - this is the baseline. Tone controls are for taste - tweak as desired. No-one at the listening end has any clue what the listening environment was for the mastering engineer...and I don't think it matters anyway...I'm sure the artist won't care if the end listener prefers more/less bass/treble as long as they're enjoying the music. I'm not OCD either - I just dial up/down the bass/treble on the remote as I want - usually setting everything back to flat on an album change, and dialing up/down from there to taste
  11. One of my "Dave-isms", a wiggle in the frequency response always has a wiggle in the phase response 👍 As Dave says, if mucking with the FR, you may want the corresponding change in phase response. I'm not a fan of the old style analog graphic equalisers either - I greatly prefer parametric EQ - which can be implemented using analog or digital EQ - and they will have the same phase response - which is also "minimum phase". When correcting the room's bass response, I prefer parametric EQ (digital or analog) over linear phase digital EQ. In the low end, most r
  12. I love having tone controls on my system - even better, they're on the remote 👍 I muck with them all the time, especially if I'm jumping around between albums. Treble too hot, dial it down a smidge. Great bass line on a well recorded track, crank the bass to taste (eg Sara on multiple Fleetwood Mac recordings) Some recordings have ample bass already (eg Angus and Julia Stone's Yellow Brick Road - I leave that flat). Some poor recordings unfortunately just can't be listened to at high volume regardless of EQ settings - recordings by The Killers and The Str
  13. Hi Jonoo, To quote just a part of another post, highlight the text and you'll see a button to quote the text Which gives the below To quote a whole post, there's a Quote button at the bottom of each post... Make sure the cursor is in the spot in your new post where you want the quote to land...but you can drag them around afterwards, by hovering on the quote and dragging the arrow 👍 - very friendly/helpful/knowledgeable people here - I've learned heaps from members across my 10 years on SNA ! cheers Mike
  14. Hi Jono, try quoting the post or using @ if you want to highlight a specific member eg @hopefullguy... I'm happy for @hopefullguy or @muon* to chime in, but IMHO I would would offer the below summary: cabinet vibrations are bad and should be minimised - in the DIY world this is achieved via multiple approaches - with commercial designs you're stuck with what you have transmitting cabinet vibrations to the room via coupling is also bad...IMHO you're better off de-coupling speakers from the room structure placing something solid underneath a "down firing"
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