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pedro77

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About pedro77

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  1. Hi A9X Thanks for the reply. No apology necessary. Hope you recovery quickly though. You bring up a lot of interesting points. And a lot more than I considered but then again I don't know much ha. I can't find if the relays on this board are break before make or make before break. I had thought I would be fine when switching from AVR to VA as my valve amp has a fixed 30 sec warm up time before powering the outputs. I'm not sure though if when the VA is powered off at the wall but the manual switch on the device is on, whether there is any chance of the AVR feeding current back across the valves. That is interesting about suddenly opening the circuit on the VA outputs while playing. I would normally always stop any music before that but there is always the chance of bumping or sitting on the remote. Wouldn't that also be a risk with a manual switch if someone flicked the switch and opened the circuit while the VA is playing? It is amazing how quickly it becomes complicated when you want to have some delays and protection. I want to keep it as simple as possible but I'm seeing that may not be as easy I thought.
  2. Actually, having just explained this now, I am wondering if there is a risk that by leaving the valve amp speaker wires in place and the AVR speaker levels are active, could the current also be trying to "drive" the valves, even if the valve amp is off at the power board? Does anyone who knows anything about circuitry have any ideas? If that is the case I would need to rewire the relays so the AVR outputs are connected each to a NC, the valve amp amps to the corresponding NO and then the speakers wires to the matching common. The only downside is I forgo my terminated speaker cables for basic wires or have to build a box for the relay and wire in some binding posts.
  3. For anyone else interested, I got it setup and working. I bought a 5V 4 channel relay board for about 3 bucks as I have a lot more 5V USB chargers lying around than 12V versions. This was the one I got: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5V-2-4-8-16-Channel-Relay-Board-Module-for-Arduino-Raspberry-Pi-ARM-AVR-DSP-PIC/113672930560?hash=item1a776f4500:m:mW8AVUtErcN-MGJEhek8Shw Each speaker wire goes through NC (normally closed) contacts which open when the 5V is powered. To activate the relay switches I have just taken the positive wire from the USB cable to VCC and then have the negative wire connected to ground together with all 4 of the the relay input switches twisted together. With this wiring I have left the JD-VCC and its VCC with the jumper on (see the yellow jumper in the pic). And that's about it. Hook one end of the speaker wires to the AVR speaker level outputs and the other to the speakers and have the 5V adapter plugged into the same IR controlled power board as the valve amp. So if the valve amp and relay are off I can stream to the front speakers from the AVR speaker level outputs. If the valve amp and relay are on, the AVR speaker level circuit is opened ie off and the front speakers are then powered just by the valve amp (either via AVR preouts to the HT input on the valve amp or one of the other valve amp inputs). Turned out to be easier than I thought. Hope it helps someone thinking of doing something similar. Cheers Pete
  4. For streaming, the valve amp will be off but we use the valve amp to power the fronts pretty regularly when watching TV and movies so an automated set up would be best. Plus I'm lazy...I'd probably spend an hour looking for a lost remote control rather than have to walk to the TV to change the channel
  5. Thanks again for the input. Reading my posts again I think I jumped a bit quickly into details without a broader context. I want to make this as family and visitor friendly as possible so even though manual switching would be the simplest, it would be great if I could make the switching automatic. As the new AVR shows up as a streaming point in multiple formats even while on standby I want to be able to stream to the whole system without any user intervention apart from selecting the output on their phone. That dodocus gear looks nice but it's going to be even more expensive than tracking down a second hand or new old stock of the SPK-1. The advantage too with a DIY path is I can leave my existing decent terminated speaker cables directly connected from the valve amp to the fronts (without having to add an extra set with the SPK-1). And also that way I can just have the less critical path of streaming from the speaker level outs involving the two sets of cables and routing via relays. Jventer, A9X is correct is my experience of AVRs that there is no scene or control over output selection from speaker level outputs and their matching preouts. Admittedly, I've only owned a few AVRs but there has never been an option in any of mine to designate preouts vs speaker level outs. A9X I think I know what I need but any practical advice would be really appreciated. I have googled this problem but haven't found anything. And I'm surprised there's not more people out there wanting it especially as according to a Darko survey that the majority don't have a dedicated listening space (https://darko.audio/2017/03/global-feedback-lounge-room-or-listening-room-or-both/). So far I think I need a 12V DC power supply and 4 relays which are normally closed and passing current when unpowered and open when the relays are powered. I'm thinking 4 for each speaker level wire rather than 2 say just on the positives so no current leaks back from the valve amp to the AVR front speaker lines when the valve amp is on. I"m not sure if that's correct though? A9X do you know any models of relays which might be suitable? Thanks again. Cheers Pete ps I've made a schematic myself...it was harder than I thought haha. Hope it helps.
  6. Thanks for the replies. I was thinking I would need some kind of relay switch. I think I have found a product that may be ideal but it's discontinued and a bit more expensive than I was hoping. It's a Niles SPK-1 which would allow the speakers to be fed by the AVR when the valve amp is off. When the valve amp is on (and the SPK-1 which would also be plugged into the same IR controlled power board) the speakers would be fed by the valve amp only (via AVR preouts but disconnecting the simultaneous speaker level output from the AVR). As I often use the AVR and valve amp together for movies and TV I don't think the 12V trigger outs would work for that situation. My valve amp does have HT bypass but it would be good if it also had a 12V trigger out. I want to avoid having to buy additional speakers. The only DIY system I can see may work is to have relay switches (normally closed) that are plugged into the same IR activated power board as the valve amp and when it is on it opens the circuit on speaker level outs that go from the AVR to the speakers. I'm not sure exactly how to go about this but I'm thinking some kind of 12V wall wart and 4 relays (one for each speaker wire ie L+&- R+&-).
  7. I thought this would be a more common issue to want to automatically switch between AVR and a stereo amp with the same fronts. Should I move this to DIY or Speakers/Subwoofer threads? Cheers
  8. Hi all, I'm not sure if I'm using the right terminology and that's why I haven't found anything, but I'm looking for a stereo speaker A/B switch that's position changes depending on if it is powered or not. So I can have my front speakers wired to both a surround amp and a stereo amp but make sure it's never at the same time. The reason I'm after this is that I recently upgraded my surround AVR which can be turned on over the network by selecting it as the remote speaker output. In most setups that would normally be fine but I have the front L&R speakers powered by a valve amp which is fed from the AVR preouts. The problem is the valve amp isn't on all the time and so if I wake the AVR with streaming I can get output to all the surrounds but not the fronts. My valve amp has a physical power switch only and to make things easier I've got it hooked up to an IR controlled power board. So I'm wondering if such an A/B speaker switch thing exists that if I had it also plugged into the IR activated power board I could let it switch between the valve amp powering the speakers (via AVR preouts) when on, or from the AVR front speaker bindings directly when off. Obviously I don't ever want it to have an A+B option which if running the valve and AVR amps at the same time could do some damage. I hope I've explained it clearly. Any one heard of such a thing or got some ideas? Appreciate your help. Cheers Pete
  9. 2-3 weeks according to Darko a few days ago. Hopefully not a paid update like 2.3 to 2.5. "Hold your horses though! The update isn’t available just yet. I’m told that Sonore/MQA are aiming to ship the new code in a two weeks. Maybe three." https://darko.audio/2018/01/mqa-support-comes-to-sonore-streamers/
  10. It really depends on your friend, but you could get a raspberry pi with a s/pdif HAT (such as the Digi+ from HiFiBerry) along with a separate DAC. What one are you thinking of getting? Otherwise skip the separate DAC and get something like the Allo Boss you mentioned or a decent DAC HAT for the raspberry pi (like DAC+ or I-sabre). You've then got a choice of software (including volumio, picoreplayer or Roon) to stream/cast to over a variety of protocols. A lot of these preferences will depend on if playing some music over the LAN or if it's all from a service (eg Spotify, Apple Music). The bluetooth adapter is definitely a cheaper option but obviously lossy and the onboard DAC will likely be a step down from the other options.
  11. Item: Sonore microRendu (Black - limited edition which was only sold during Black Friday Sale 2016) Also includes power supply, code for extended 2 month trial to Roon and standard accessories Location: Gold Coast, QLD Price: $700 $600 Item Condition: perfect, barely used Reason for selling: upgraded to ultraRendu Payment Method: Pickup or standard delivery within Australia - Cash, Paypal, Direct Deposit Extra Info: OS 2.3, included standard 9V SMPS, Code for extended 2 month trial to Roon, Direct USB A to B connector, unused stick-on rubber feet -Computer Audiophile - Overall Product of the Year 2016 -Audio Stream - Runner Up Product of the Year 2016 Some reviews: http://www.digitalaudioreview.net/2017/01/classy-sonores-microrendu-takes-digital-audio-higher/ https://www.computeraudiophile.com/ca/reviews/Sonore-microRendu-Review-Part-1/ https://www.computeraudiophile.com/index.php?app=cms&module=pages&controller=page&path=ca/reviews/Sonore-microRendu-Review-Part-2 http://www.audiostream.com/content/sonore-simple-design-microrendu#zIHrjvw7EVrmgY1S.97 http://www.metal-fi.com/review-sonore-microrendu/ http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-accessories/acoustics-eq-room-tuning/sonore-microrendu-ethernet-to-usb-streamer-review.html Pictures:
  12. Hi Jolon Thanks for the detailed reply and testing out the different banks! I had read somewhere (can't remeber where now) that each bank had decreasing levels of isolation and filtering so the most important gear should go in Bank 1 and descending in importance from there. I have mine set up as: Bank 1 - integrated tube amp on bank Bank 2 - 2 SMPS for record player and preamp Bank 3 - Surround AV receiver That's something I'll have to try different combinations with now. Cheers Pete
  13. Hey jolon I also bought a Thor A12 power board specifically to try and make the power supply cleaner and more isolated/separated for my hi-fi components and perhaps with an added bonus of some protection from fluctuations. I haven't noticed any difference good or bad but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on how (and maybe why) the A12 was detrimental. Cheers Pete
  14. Thanks for following up on all your testing. Interesting to know you found similar results on both systems. I hadn't considered the Intona as much as the other two (Regen and Recovery) but definitely food for thought. Decisions, decisions. Cheers Pete
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