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eltech last won the day on April 13 2017

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  1. Hi Paul, From my experience, of which I have a reasonable amount of, I suggest what you're looking for is a multibit / R2R DAC. The tube / valve is not essential to get the sound you want, however the DAC chip typology is critically important. Of course, do feel free to use valves if you really like them. The TDA1387 DAC chip is a very analoge sounding chip You can get TDA1387 DACs on AliExpress for a good price. Myself, I'm experimenting with the TDA1387 chip at the moment, although it's mounted into a TDA1541 board I have at home. I like what I hear. It has a very open and dynamic sound. But the NOS DACs should be used with upsampling to get a flat frequency response (if you're a stickler for technical correctness) If you've already tried Peachtree DAC with the ESS chip, which to be honest, for a delta sigma DAC is one of the better ones, and if you're not satisfied with that you absolutely must go for a multibit DAC, because whatever your looking for isn't in the output stage, it's in the DAC chip. All in my opinion, with humble respect, Eltech.
  2. Definitely try out any multibit DAC which is above entry grade. Perhaps a vintage parasound with Burr Brown chips or any of those USA brands which are now defunct. Or... Schiit, or denafrips. Having said that, you may find an entry grade TDA1543 perfectly enjoyable... The TDA1387 is also pretty good, but not quite in Burr Brown territory. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132118486441 AU $210.99 | Finished L1387DAC 8Xse Eight Parallel TDA1387 HiFi DAC Decoder PCM2706 USB Fiber Coaxial OTG https://a.aliexpress.com/EnqvCdGM AU $113.50 | New AD1852 Audio DAC Decoder PCM2706 USB Fiber Coaxial HiFi Decoder Finished https://a.aliexpress.com/BhLIdIus There's plenty of mutibit options at affordable prices to try.
  3. A Mac mini is a PC like any other. The same rules apply. If the DAC you get or use has a good USB input and you like the sound, the job is done. If not, then you'd investigate a good USB to spdif interface. Software tweaks may gain some improvements. USB cables make a little but not much difference, hardly worth worrying about. USB regen things are a bottleneck. They are there to fix problems with USB circuits. It's better to get a DAC with good USB circuit, or a good USB spdif converter. But most importantly get a good DAC which actually plays good music that doesn't fatigue you and brings you great enjoyment long term.
  4. Well do you dislike certain phono cartridges? Or turntables? Is a Crossley turntable adorning your listening room? Is my point made? Yes, there is a difference in sound between DAC typologies. Some sound better than others. Clearly it is not so strange.
  5. What does this comment mean in the context of your reply?
  6. If records sound better than digital you do need to improve your digital playback. Records in very good condition should sound excellent, but not better than digital, unless you prefer the Analog sound effects. And it's ok if you do. If your digital is sounding digital you do need to improve that! I personally prefer multibit or R2R DACs. They tend to not sound digital. Actually they sound way better than records. Same smoothness and details, just without the annoying accompanying noises. The AKM velvet sound DACs are good but still sound digital to me. Perhaps check out Schiit DACs. (They do multibit) Or any other multibit DAC.
  7. I had a Sony MDSJE320. I didn't think much of the sound quality. I didn't enjoy the lossy sound. In spite of the noise I preferred my Luxman cassette deck. I sold the Sony in box with manual and remote 10 years after buying it for the same price I paid for it. And I sold the discs for the same price I paid for them. The buyer was thrilled. Good riddance to minidisc. I did however think at the time that the technology was interesting. ( I did own one) At the time - For people who listen to music on-the-go it was probably a good compromise of size vs sound quality. MP3 killed the minidisc not CD-R IMO.
  8. http://www.decibelhifi.com.au/genuine-supex-smm-5-stylus-assembly I haven't heard it but I'm sure the conical stylus will still sound good. I was formerly biased against conical. But I am now appreciative of what they can sound like. I actually think a bonded elliptical is a worse profile than a good original conical. Conical is forgiving of some imperfections that elliptical can emphasize.
  9. I did compare my RP-7000 to my SL-120 (with SME-3009 MK2) tonearm in my main system, and... The Reloop subtly but noticeably whipped the SL-120 everywhere. Both were tested with AT-150MLX. So... the SL-120 went bye byes. I don't think a Reloop is as good a a Kuzma or anything more expensive along those lines. But at it's price it's highly functional, super easy to set VTA for each record which can be important for getting the best out of vinyl and probably equals anything else new at its price point and possibly even double or triple it's price point irrespective of brand.
  10. Agree. No reason to doubt. If he hears it, he hears it.
  11. I wouldn't get hung up on such things. If you like them that's great. I suppose they were midrange. Australia in the 70's and 80's had massive import duty so lots of speakers were made locally from imported parts. Example - most if not all 70's KEF concerto speakers in Australia are kits, not actually built by KEF in the UK. Encel built many speakers locally with SEAS drivers. BJD imports made Audioline. Douglas hifi made linear design. Plessey / Rola speakers were made in Richmond Victoria, and lots of speakers used these parts. Australian hifi was a local, and home-built scene, from electronics Australia kits, or Dick Smith, with not much really hifi stuff. It was mostly midrange compared to today. Lots of Japanese amps. Only the super rich had American or UK made amps and speakers.
  12. The tweeters look like ones made by Philips. But not sure. Probably a locally made speaker. Mid and woofers look like Japanese 70's brand like coral, but could be from Taiwan.
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