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Peter the Greek

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About Peter the Greek

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    Hunter Valley
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    Australia

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  1. Bigger the better (in any direction, including height) and from side to side. I had to compromise and not go side to side. It still worked, but I'm told not as well - I countered that by building another above the screen. Where is the door going? If at the back and you can walk in at riser height, it becomes quite luxurious to step down to the seating level. Like a den. Plus, resale - every punter will want more seats. Easy as to add them on a riser. Have you considered a professional layout? Here is two. Neither will admit it, but both pretty much the same for this more basic work [ducking for cover in case they ever read that] https://www.erskine-group.com or https://questai.com/design-package-comparison/
  2. Like this (put some black fabric over the insulation to hide the colour)
  3. Is this what you mean by that? That's a real "no-no" https://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/triple-leaf-effect
  4. Not in my experience. A riser trap and 2 subs solves most issues. I've been closely involved in 3 rooms of various sizes and have 2 other friends who have used the same approach. No bass issues. I didn't invent this stuff, just sought professional advice on how to do it. The problem with bass trapping is that it needs a LOT of real estate - people try to bang things in corners etc, but they're just not big enough. Build big ones, problem solved. Have a dip in bass at the seating position? add another sub and eq it out. There must be thousands of rooms on AVS who have followed Dennis Erskine's advice over the years. None complain about bass.
  5. Ply and 16mm fire rated gyprock. All rooms have bass issues. Soundproof it and treat for bass after ie. Build a riser, it's not rocket science. Your builder will have issues isolating the ceiling I suspect. Clips and channel will solve that.
  6. Fair enough. I can't find the exact quote I was looking for, but from Master Erskine (some food for though): Mass: TL = 20 log10 (ms*f) - 48 Effectively means doubling the mass reduces transmission by 6dB. There's a point at which doubling the mass becomes a poor economic choice. --- Coincidence Dip While thickness plays a role, stiffness (modulus of elasticity) plays a larger role. At BNR and another secure but undisclosed location, the elasticity of common building materials (drywall, plywood, mdf, etc) were significantly inconsistent from sheet to sheet. Further, variations in method of construction would also alter boundary stiffness. For example, mounting drywall horizontally over 2x4 framing, 16" O.C. would produce significantly different results than when mounted vertically. Two layers of drywall, say 3/8" + 5/8" will behave similar to a 1" layer of drywall when those two layers have been glued together. Two layers of drywall, as above, will more closely mimic two individual layers with a viscolastic agent between
  7. Thanks - yep a lot of planning went into that room. The soundproofing was exceptional. We dragged my large sub in there before we moved, you couldn't hear a thing. I literally jumped on the floor upstairs and my wife couldn't hear the foot fall. The door seals passed my angle grinder test i.e. angle grinder right outside the door, ear to the seal - nothing. unreal. it was so deadly quiet. Such a superb space to be in As I note above, i'd do the first layer in ply. What's the plan for the ceiling? double stud is fine for the walls, but you need separate ceiling beams sitting on that - or just use clips and channel (better and easier)
  8. Reckon its worth it? Ply is my go to - means you can screw anything you want, wherever you want. Makes the fitout SO much easier - soffits, speaker mounts etc
  9. This is quite technical. Before I forget have you done two layers of soundcheck? you'll want two....with greenglue if you can manage it. The supply should go at the front, but not behind the screen (unless you want it to become an air filter - tip, you don't) Return at the rear of the room - projector box is a good location for one of them Ideally you'd have another supply and return for fresh air running 24/7 - moreso, hooked up to an ERV The air velocity at the vent needs to be 250fpm (or less) - if you're hvac guy can't get his head around that, just oversize them. like stupid big. Bar diffusers, not linear diffusers. Big insulated duct in soffits, with some bends in it, 2 or 3 if you can manage it Read up on dead vents - https://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/the-dead-vent I did bit heavy boxes lined with insulation in my last room. Couldn't hear a thing with the AC on full blast
  10. Technically speaking it can house 900, maybe 1,000. We've got 700 in this flock to see how the new design goes. Here it is for anyone else who's bored.....the reason, well part of the reason, I no longer have a HT
  11. Hi Guys and @bob_m_54, Finally got it installed yesterday, works perfectly. Thank you again so much for your help, much appreciated. The time whilst DIN rail capable, is non standard depth and height....irritating, this'll do for now
  12. None, they'll all be garbage. A decent 2 channel experience will be infinitely more satisfying......I'm a HARDCORE multichannel guy, so coming from me, this says something. Leave the wiring and use it when you can afford it. Even buy a good soundbar if it came to that. Sell the brackets. They'll look crap too. In or on celing is the way to go. Lots you can point at the MLP (which you dont have).....putting chairs in front of doors is stupid in my opinion. Having a break in the room is visually appealing and provides for a more intimate space Don't be afraid of secondhand. It doesn't mean you're cheap, rather it means you're smart and value quality. Plus you're in Melbourne, its like the center of the universe for good quality, secondhand gear Anyway, do as you please/be happy with. The above is just my opinion and experience.
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