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Posts posted by haygeebaby

  1. Hi Paul

    Man if you can align in 30 minutes - you are my hero.

    But from my experience it should take you a little longer if you are doing all the steps.

    Neither style arm tube should make a difference. But maybe you are already doing all the steps and have mastered it.


    Here is my two cents on suggestions:

    The Dennesen Soundtraktor looks similar to the Dr Feikurt protractor which I have used before. Both won't get you super close to perfect alignment. But perfect in my book is bloody impossible. Let's say they get you 85% to 90% perfect alignment - we are talking really small margins here. But very audible none the less.

    The best I've used is the Mint Best Tractor. Let's say this can get you to 95%. You'll know what I mean when you use a protractor like this.

    Its a mirror style protractor and it is custom made for your turntable and arm setup.



    You'll want a 3x and a 10x magnifier (or better) to be able to see where the needle is.

    If you are not using a magnifier at this strength - you're not going to be able to tell how good your alignment is.

    The mirror style helps you judge the alignment more accurately than a grid that other protractors use.


    I'll assume you are using something similar to a Fozgometer and a good test/alignment record to get your azimuth right.


    We could go on for 10 pages on setup - but the more you do it the more you'll master it.


    The analogmagik analyzer is a tool that interests me. Probably the tool that's needed to get really really close to 99%.



    As for the DP6 - I wouldn't worry too much about the silicone in the damping well. It didn't make a noticeable difference for me. And it gets messy trying to get all the fluid in the right spot.


    Tonearm cable - decent gains here by getting a good matching cable to the rest of your system or tuning the sound to your liking. I currently use a Kimber Select 1236 cable. The silver ground portion impressed me as I noticed a good reduction in noise when I switched to this cable.


    The red arm tube is a good match for the weight of the 2M Black. You shouldn't have any resonance issues with this combo.


    Curious to know what cart you used on the blue and yellow arm tubes.

    The yellow was phased out because uncommon combination.

    The blue would have been a good match for really lite carts.


    Anyway - you spend a decent amount with your DP6. Goes without saying that you should spend an equal amount on the tools to align it to perfection.

    You can adjust everything with this arm.


    Good luck and happy trails on your hifi journey




  2. Yeah - also really like the Moerch arms.

    Using DP6 on a Gyro SE. 

    Running a red precision (Benz Wood S L) and a green narrow (EMT JSD P6.0).


    Nice to be able to swap arms - and still have half the adjustments already set.

    Ability to go to 12" length is also a great design element. 


    However - I didn't find either style to be harder or easier to use during alignment - same for both.

    Alignment always takes me about 2 hours. It's a pain in the toosh.


    What protractor are you using?

    Do you find that the azimuth adjustment a little weird? To get mine as close to vertical as possible I have to turn it almost 100% clockwise. If I turn it 101% clockwise - the arm no longer balances.


    Are you using the silicone fluid in the vertical damping well? 

    My arm sticks for a short time when the cantilever is dropped.


    Also wish the VTA was better than just an Allen screw - hard to get the micro adjustment needed on this arm for VTA.


    Did you change the tonearm cable? The stock one is mediocre and man it has some nasty smell from it. Did you notice this?


    Otherwise - its a pretty decent arm in its price range. Very enjoyable to own.







    Hi Geoff

    WLM Diva - very nice speakers. I believe they can get rather complex with the modules. Very interesting piece of engineering this WLM kit.


    I added one T9/i to my setup and then another T9/i. The journey with tuning the sub-woofer to my 2 channel setup has been about 12 months now. Below are my tips from my journey - but I'm sure it won't apply to every setup so absorb and test what you think works for you - or hopefully it will give you some path to take on your journey.


    Give the sub what it needs to be able to perform its best. Biggest improvements listed first.

    1. Power upgrade - upgrade the fuse and power cable. I used the SR Black fuse - it gave stronger bass and more texture. I changed the power cable to a Shunyata Venom V10 and powered from the wall. It felt like I was being hit by bricks when the bass was pumping. These improved the sub woofer a great deal.
    2. Sub-woofer cable - some gains to be had here - I DIY'd with Kimber 8tc and Neutrik connector and used bananas to connect at the amp side.
    3. Isolation - some gains to be had here - I used the SubDude II. Bass was more focused and clearer.


    Measure the room and optimize your seating position to the bass in your room and also the sub-woofer location in the room.

    1. I used REW and a umik1 calibrated mic. I wanted to measure what I was really getting in the room and not conclude that everything was good because it sounded good to my ears. It was a case of "you don't know what you don't know" and measurements and the REW simulator where invaluable tools. This I would rank as the most important thing to do. Using this tool I was able to eliminate some low frequency room modes and also optimize what was possible in the room. Too hard to do with your ear in my opinion. It only costs a couple hundred bucks for the mic and the software is free. You learn a lot in the process. Bass has different rules compared to medium and high frequencies.
    2. If you room is rectangular then the REW room simulator is so useful. Very handy to find locations for the sub that might give the better frequency curves.
    3. From doing the above I avoided bass nulls - moved my seating position and speakers 50cm to the right - off center point in the room.
    4. I could see that with the first sub-woofer I was getting a boosted bass. The house curve its called - sounded great but it was exaggerated and after tuning it out I could see what even bass was. Even bass is what you want.
    5. To even the bass out I had to add a 2nd sub woofer. The room sim pointed me in this direction and the real life results where very similar to the simulated curve.
    6. The sim also suggested that the best curve with the 2nd sub was to raise the sub around 40 cm off the floor. While the 1st sub could be sitting on the isolation pad on the floor.


    After I did all this - bass was good but it wasn't till I did the last few things that gave me a very textured and palpable bass that was powerful, clear, and very detailed. In short I feel that your entire system and every component and tweak plays a role in the final sound you can achieve. Not just one change or upgrade. So this is where is gets system specific and where 1+1 does not always equal 2.


    Eliminating noise, Grounding, and Clean power.

    These last few changes gave me amazing bass. Telos GNR grounding and Etherregen network switch with a linear power supply. And I also limited my speaker woofer units to 40hz.


    I did a ton of other things as well to my system that probably assisted in the end result. But I feel the above where key things that lead me to the end result for great bass.


    I admit - it wasn't a simple path and probably not for everyone. But its an interesting experience that gave amazing results. Good luck with your journey.












    • Like 2

    Sorry the delayed feedback Mr57.

    I would classify this mod as purely speaker/room/listen chair positioning - probably the most vital initial setup phase. The leg dimensions are based off the blue print that is available on the web - posted to Teti on 25/6/2011.


    Shout out to Teti if he every reads this - thank for putting this online bro.


    The listening chair I use most is the Eames Lounge and Ottoman. After testing a few chairs - this chair is angled right and has a good height for hifi listening. But its not the most comfortable chair in the world. And long sessions result is a sore buttox.


    After measuring the frequency response in my room - I know I will have a null if my ear is at 90cm height. So I generally try to be at either a little lower than this (around 85cm) or slightly above (100cm).


    This puts my ear at the top 1/3 of the Esl57 panel.

    So in my setup I would probably make the legs a little higher to put my ear at the center of the panel.

    So legs that are around 20cm taller would put my ears dead center.

    You will have to recalculate the middle leg for angle and also see how stable the speaker is.


    Angle wise - its about right. Speaker doesn't tip over - is stable with the Teti blueprints.


    Sound wise - in my mind the new height and angle is better than the stock Quad setup. The sound feels more open. I also can sit further away from the speakers so I don't have do use a near field setup to get the listen position right. Bass I feel is better. But the gains are not massive and the speakers sound signature stays the same.


    Cost - I think it cost me around AUD$400-500 to get someone to program and cut the pieces out for me or a CNC. Worth? Sort of on the fence on this one. I used MDF to cut this prototype out and the final goal was to cut a set out with nice wood. But I didn't take it any further as I didn't think there was much to gain.


    I would do it if the Quad ESL57 was your primary speaker and you plan to live with it / have it as your main setup for years to come. And also add a super tweeter and sub woofer as the end goal.


    The Quad ESL57 will always be one of the great speakers of all time - but it is compromised. This leg upgrade does improve positioning - and that's about it. For me - itch has been scratched. No more upgrades for the ESL57 for me. I have the full set Quad II mono amps, and pre. Will never sell.


    Hope this helps.






  5. I've listened to the ATC SCM150ASLT - tower series - powered.

    Amazing mids - arguably one of the best mids on the planet.

    Warm, detailed, fast, textured, deep sound stage - amazing!


    The new in-house tweeter and the mid driver are world class.

    But even with the 15" woofer of the SCM150 - it was not a bass heavy presentation.

    Bass was not a strong point of the ATC speaker - but mids are 5 star.

    It's a matter of taste - but ATC is a great speaker.


    As a good comparison - the PMC BB5se has killa bass with its 15" driver and transmission line configuration.

    But the mids are far superior on the ATC. Both great speakers however.


    Also - the active amps that come with the speakers - hard to beat for performance and value ratio.

    You'd have to go much much more expensive in electronics to beat the factory active setup.

    ATC SCM is hard to drive.


    Have listened to a few Dynaudios - C4 Platinum and Confidence 20. Sub6 as well.

    Agree with Alex87 - ATC100 is much more expensive than the Contour60 - ATC100 is in a different league.


    On Youtube - watch ATC review by Streaky. Spot on - I agree with his experience - very similar to mine.

    His PMC BB5 review also - same experience to mine.


    Between the ATC and Dynaudio - I'd go ATC.

    With any 2 channel speaker setup - I would also add a subwoofer or two or four.

    If you love bass and piano - you need a subwoofer.

    Lots of information is missing without a subwoofer in the system.


    Hope my 2 cents helps.

    Good luck with your future speaker choice.










  6. Item Condition: Perfect - used
    Shipping Options: Pickup available and you can audition.
    Suburb or Town: Perth
    State: Western Australia
    Payment Method: EFT, Cash on Pickup
    Reason for selling: Upgrading


    Re-post - price is negotiable / offers welcome.


    Purchased new from local supplier just over 3 years ago.

    Still using stock tubes with total hour count of 1,625 hours over 3 years.

    Unit is in perfect working condition and is pristine in appearance.


    Unit is complete with manual, QC sheets, power cable, screw driver, remote control, and original box. Remote control has hardly been used at all.

    Also have a full set of spare tubes for the unit which are brand new – Sovtek 1 x 6550WE, and 4 x 6H30.


    Really loved this unit. Very good user interface. Impedance changing on the fly, auto shut off, display dimming, new/current ARC styling, solid metal remote control.

    Fixed gain of 55db. Have used with several cartridges with wonderful sounding results – including Benz Micro Wood S L (0.4mv) and EMT JSD P6.0 (1.05mv).

    Loading range 47k, 1000, 500, 200, 100 Ohms.






    • Like 2
    • Love 1
  7. Item Condition: Perfect - low usage
    Shipping Options: Pickup available and you can audition.,Shipping is included in price.
    Suburb or Town: Perth
    State: Western Australia
    Payment Method: EFT, Cash on Pickup
    Reason for selling: Don't use enough - too many

    Further information:

    EMT's cream of the crop cartridge. Sound is clear, precise, and beguiling. Like the clouds went away and the sky is crystal clear and the sun in shining.

    Heavy unit at 18g. Diamond, alnico, gold plated.


    Purchased new about 3 years ago from Australia supplier - first installed 11/2/17.

    Last installed was 9/12/19.

    Total logged hours is 536 hours (yes written down and recorded for this unit since purchasing) - but listening hours would be far less - probably half of this - say 300 real hours of listening.

    Not used often enough. Burn in happened around 75 hours - so at 300ish hours of use its not far off new.


    This cart is east to setup and align given its design. EMT is one of the great analog companies with a rich and long history of great achievements.

    I fell in love with the company after obtaining this cart.


    Item is complete as shown in the pics.













    • Like 1
  8. Item Condition: Perfect - used
    Shipping Options: Pickup available and you can audition.,Shipping is available at agreed cost.
    Suburb or Town: Perth
    State: Western Australia
    Payment Method: EFT, Cash on Pickup
    Reason for selling: Upgrading

    Further information:

    Purchased new from local supplier just over 3 years ago.

    Still using stock tubes with total hour count of 1,625 hours over 3 years.

    Unit is in perfect working condition and is pristine in appearance.

    Unit is complete with manual, QC sheets, power cable, screw driver, remote control, and original box. Remote control has hardly been used at all.

    Also have a full set of spare tubes for the unit which are brand new – Sovtek 1 x 6550WE, and 4 x 6H30.

    Really loved this unit. Very good user interface. Impedance changing on the fly, auto shut off, display dimming, new/current ARC styling, solid metal remote control.

    Fixed gain of 55db. Have used with several cartridges with wonderful sounding results – including Benz Micro Wood S L (0.4mv) and EMT JSD P6.0 (1.05mv).

    Loading range 47k, 1000, 500, 200, 100 Ohms.














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    • Like 3
  9. 1 hour ago, Aperalim said:

    Well of course the Mundorf binding posts came fitted to my Absolare monoblocks : )

    Agree with Aperalim. The type/brand of binding post makes a difference.

    The Furutech Torque Guard binding posts - when used - hold spade connectors in exceptionally well.

    When tightening the screw it literally torques down the spade like a torque wrench. Very cool to use - very smart design.


    Furutech FT-808 (R) - binding posts | Accessories and DIY ...


  10. Hi Ray. I don’t have the 100c but I still have the original cdt100 gathering dust on the shelf. Man I’ve had it for almost 20 years.

    Um, my experience might be relevant and I hope it helps.

    My thoughts:

    one of the best looking pieces of hifi equipment ever. But some might hate the Blue light that is always on.

    having the option to run via tubes is nice.

    build quality is great.

    remote is ok but the face eventually will fall off. Held on with some glue.

    some might find the CD spinning drive noisy. I was okay with it.

    love that you have tubes for headphone section as well.

    can use it as a preamp as well.

    my unit developed a drop in volume on one channel. I would get this checked before buying.

    An ok sounding CD player.


    for the right price it’s a nice piece to have during the early part of your hifi journey.


    if sound quality is what you are after I’d buy something more modern.


    dont know how much of this will apply to the 100c version.

    i remember there is a review of the 100c on this forum. 

    good luck


    • Like 1
  11. Forgot to mention - a good thing to do will be to demo a few subwoofers in your room to help you decide.

    Find a good supplier near you that will help you with this.


    If you have problems with wooden floors then look at isolation - like Auralex subdudeII or similar products.

    After burn in and fine tuning - you may want to look at upgrading the speaker cable, upgrading power cable, and fuse.


    Good luck bro

    • Like 1
  12. Hi Jol - can't believe you have not had one reply yet from the friendly folk on stereonet.

    Focal 906 - nice book shelf man.

    From my experience I think you will love the REL subwoofers.

    The T5i is probably a good match for your room size - even the REL calculator recommends this model and a single unit.


    I think the room is going to be the biggest factor in any setup. 

    Yes you can have too much bass - some rooms have boom and it can be tricky to fix bass problems.

    Matching a sub to your speaker and room is a good tip.


    Only way to know for sure it to try in your own room and then fine tune things.

    I would recommend to go higher in the REL range if funds allow - that way you can go lower in frequency if desired - and future proof your investment for years to come.  But I think you'll be fine with the T5/I in this scenario.


    Your initial problems will be to find the ideal position for the subwoofer and then fine tuning the crossover point and volume level.

    I would recommend you read the guides on the REL website and youtube to guide you through this.

    They are logical and based on their best practices.

    Also - don't be shy to email John Hunter and ask questions. He gets back to you quickly and provides good support.


    Good luck




    • Like 1
  13. I doubt you'll find a "good" setup to listen to in a hifi store in Perth.

    Or most hifi stores for that matter. But I have not listened to them all or a lot by any measure - but 9 out of 10 I go to sound terrible or ok.

    This includes places in Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, and England.


    Dan at Addicted to Audio has a decent sound in his demo room in Perth.



    Good luck

    • Thanks 1
  14. On 25/04/2020 at 5:51 PM, snavedivad said:

    Here's my pair, though this is an old photo with many changes since. One is awaiting a new mains transformer from Quad. Unfortunately my backup 303 has just given up as well so I'm in a world of pain!  



    I like your setup too snavedivad. Simple and classic.

    You've also got the Stax headphones going as well. Well done.

    I know your pain as well - as my phono has just shat itself and will need repairs.



    • Like 1
  15. Hi Rocketfrogs

    I have lived with a Gyro for a while now. My vote would be Benz Micro.

    But no matter what cart you end up choosing make sure it matches well with your tonearm mass.

    The PS Audio GCPH has all the gain and loading settings you'll need.


    Here are some other upgrades you might consider before a cartridge change on the Gyro. Or upgrades after a new cart to further your hifi journey.


    - get the best alignment you can - bar none the no.1 thing to get right for the best sound no matter what arm, cart, phono cable, or phono amp. So invest in a good protractor. Best Tractor (aka Mint tractor) is the best I've used so far. Better than the Dr Feikert. 100% worth the money and your time. If you get one make sure you get the 10x Peak Loupe magnifier as well. Other things I would suggest would be a digital stylus force gauge, test record for setup, and a Fozgometer. Yip is great to deal with and very helpful if you need support.


    - HR Power supply - seems expensive but after you have this upgrade its a no brainer and a must upgrade for the Gyro. The motor runs smoother and the sound improves by a big margin. Cheaper to buy in England. One of the top if not the top upgrade to get. You won't get the best out of your cart until you've done this upgrade. I would recommend Analogseduction for the HR Power. Gary at AS is always nice to deal with.


    - upgraded tonearm. An SME IV or V is probably a logical end goal for the Gyro turntable. I use to use an Origin Live Zephry arm. Upgraded to a Morech DP6. Big improvements in overall sound. Better tracking, stronger bass, greater sound stage, quieter background, etc. Also makes correct alignment easier. Cameron from Krispy Audio is your man to talk to if you are interested in the Morech - he does Benz and Hana as well. Analogseduction in England for Armplates.


    - get rid of those 3 stock suspension towers. They don't do you any favors - they muddy up and blur the sound . Upgrade to something like SolidAir Audio Pylons. Similar to a SME turntable configuration. The sound improves a lot - especially in complex passages on a vinyl recording - way more detail comes out. Miles Kilby is a real gentleman - and provides good support.


    - upgraded tonearm cable - good gains to be had if upgrading to the right cable. After a few upgrades I found a cable that had better materials in the ground cable - gave me a quieter background. Also more detail from the cable change.


    I think these are the 5 top changes in my experience with the Gyro.


    Good luck with your cart upgrade.




    • Like 5
  16. 1 hour ago, Mr 57 said:

    Thanks @haygeebaby, I truly enjoy what the combination does. It’s hard to put into words....but I know it has an emotional life like presentation to vocals and acoustic pieces. It has called a screaming halt to “chasing the sound”. Very happy little vegemite .

    Any plans to raise the legs on the 57 and add a subwoofer?

    I found both to be upgrades worth doing.


    The QII80 is so beautiful - the plugs are all on the correct side.

    QuadII plug orientation on the short side makes it hard to show off the amps.


    Have you rolled the KT88's yet? Which make did you opt for and any improvements?




    • Like 1
  17. Two pair Quad II's and stacked ESL57.

    You are a man of taste.


    Did you do the IEC conversion on the amps yourself Telsa?

    Did you find any improvement with this upgrade?

    Did you upgrade the internal power cable or just use the stock cable?

    Where did you run the ground to from the IEC?

    I'm thinking of doing this DIY on my amps.


    I am also interested in getting some Townshend super tweeters but at 2k it makes it hard to pull the tigger.

    Have you heard 57's with the super tweeters before? Worth?

    Any cheaper alternatives that we know sound as good?


  18. 13 hours ago, Mr 57 said:

    Nice pair ! Running them into your ESL would be pretty much how Mr Walker would have heard them. 

    I have always been blown away by the presentation of music via valves and ESL, it is (to me) so easy to relax into, never grates on me, truly an immersive presentation.

    I was lucky enough to find a pair of II 80’s, such a joy. 


    Wow - very nice looking setup. The wood theme feels very relaxing. How do you find the quad 80 with the ESL57?


    Yesterday I pulled these from the shelf and plugged them back in for a listen.

    Has been 3 years since I last switched them on. Still sounding wonderful - big sound stage and bass.

    Fully restored/upgraded caps/resistors. Running Shuguang Treasure  KT66-Z, Mullard EF86, and Mullard GZ32.

    Would love to see your Quads and hear about their story if you have them.







    • Like 5
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