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haygeebaby

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About haygeebaby

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    Perth
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  1. Hi Paul Hope you are well. Are you interested in a M10 pre amp or SA-Ref power amp? regards Ken
  2. Agree with Aperalim. The type/brand of binding post makes a difference. The Furutech Torque Guard binding posts - when used - hold spade connectors in exceptionally well. When tightening the screw it literally torques down the spade like a torque wrench. Very cool to use - very smart design.
  3. Hi Ray. I don’t have the 100c but I still have the original cdt100 gathering dust on the shelf. Man I’ve had it for almost 20 years. Um, my experience might be relevant and I hope it helps. My thoughts: one of the best looking pieces of hifi equipment ever. But some might hate the Blue light that is always on. having the option to run via tubes is nice. build quality is great. remote is ok but the face eventually will fall off. Held on with some glue. some might find the CD spinning drive noisy. I was okay with it. love that you have tubes for headphone section as well. can use it as a preamp as well. my unit developed a drop in volume on one channel. I would get this checked before buying. An ok sounding CD player. for the right price it’s a nice piece to have during the early part of your hifi journey. if sound quality is what you are after I’d buy something more modern. dont know how much of this will apply to the 100c version. i remember there is a review of the 100c on this forum. good luck
  4. I upgraded an Origin Live Zephyr tonearm to silver a long time ago. Didn't notice much improvement going down this route.
  5. Forgot to mention - a good thing to do will be to demo a few subwoofers in your room to help you decide. Find a good supplier near you that will help you with this. If you have problems with wooden floors then look at isolation - like Auralex subdudeII or similar products. After burn in and fine tuning - you may want to look at upgrading the speaker cable, upgrading power cable, and fuse. Good luck bro
  6. Hi Jol - can't believe you have not had one reply yet from the friendly folk on stereonet. Focal 906 - nice book shelf man. From my experience I think you will love the REL subwoofers. The T5i is probably a good match for your room size - even the REL calculator recommends this model and a single unit. I think the room is going to be the biggest factor in any setup. Yes you can have too much bass - some rooms have boom and it can be tricky to fix bass problems. Matching a sub to your speaker and room is a good tip. Only way to know for sure it to try in your own room and then fine tune things. I would recommend to go higher in the REL range if funds allow - that way you can go lower in frequency if desired - and future proof your investment for years to come. But I think you'll be fine with the T5/I in this scenario. Your initial problems will be to find the ideal position for the subwoofer and then fine tuning the crossover point and volume level. I would recommend you read the guides on the REL website and youtube to guide you through this. They are logical and based on their best practices. Also - don't be shy to email John Hunter and ask questions. He gets back to you quickly and provides good support. Good luck
  7. I doubt you'll find a "good" setup to listen to in a hifi store in Perth. Or most hifi stores for that matter. But I have not listened to them all or a lot by any measure - but 9 out of 10 I go to sound terrible or ok. This includes places in Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, and England. Dan at Addicted to Audio has a decent sound in his demo room in Perth. Good luck
  8. I like your setup too snavedivad. Simple and classic. You've also got the Stax headphones going as well. Well done. I know your pain as well - as my phono has just shat itself and will need repairs.
  9. Thanks for the feedback. No need to take the cover off to get pics. Probably right about the wire gauge. Can't only be 3 blokes on stereonet with Quad II's. Post your pics guys - lock down is boring.
  10. Hi Rocketfrogs I have lived with a Gyro for a while now. My vote would be Benz Micro. But no matter what cart you end up choosing make sure it matches well with your tonearm mass. The PS Audio GCPH has all the gain and loading settings you'll need. Here are some other upgrades you might consider before a cartridge change on the Gyro. Or upgrades after a new cart to further your hifi journey. - get the best alignment you can - bar none the no.1 thing to get right for the best sound no matter what arm, cart, phono cable, or phono amp. So invest in a good protractor. Best Tractor (aka Mint tractor) is the best I've used so far. Better than the Dr Feikert. 100% worth the money and your time. If you get one make sure you get the 10x Peak Loupe magnifier as well. Other things I would suggest would be a digital stylus force gauge, test record for setup, and a Fozgometer. Yip is great to deal with and very helpful if you need support. - HR Power supply - seems expensive but after you have this upgrade its a no brainer and a must upgrade for the Gyro. The motor runs smoother and the sound improves by a big margin. Cheaper to buy in England. One of the top if not the top upgrade to get. You won't get the best out of your cart until you've done this upgrade. I would recommend Analogseduction for the HR Power. Gary at AS is always nice to deal with. - upgraded tonearm. An SME IV or V is probably a logical end goal for the Gyro turntable. I use to use an Origin Live Zephry arm. Upgraded to a Morech DP6. Big improvements in overall sound. Better tracking, stronger bass, greater sound stage, quieter background, etc. Also makes correct alignment easier. Cameron from Krispy Audio is your man to talk to if you are interested in the Morech - he does Benz and Hana as well. Analogseduction in England for Armplates. - get rid of those 3 stock suspension towers. They don't do you any favors - they muddy up and blur the sound . Upgrade to something like SolidAir Audio Pylons. Similar to a SME turntable configuration. The sound improves a lot - especially in complex passages on a vinyl recording - way more detail comes out. Miles Kilby is a real gentleman - and provides good support. - upgraded tonearm cable - good gains to be had if upgrading to the right cable. After a few upgrades I found a cable that had better materials in the ground cable - gave me a quieter background. Also more detail from the cable change. I think these are the 5 top changes in my experience with the Gyro. Good luck with your cart upgrade.
  11. Any plans to raise the legs on the 57 and add a subwoofer? I found both to be upgrades worth doing. The QII80 is so beautiful - the plugs are all on the correct side. QuadII plug orientation on the short side makes it hard to show off the amps. Have you rolled the KT88's yet? Which make did you opt for and any improvements?
  12. Two pair Quad II's and stacked ESL57. You are a man of taste. Did you do the IEC conversion on the amps yourself Telsa? Did you find any improvement with this upgrade? Did you upgrade the internal power cable or just use the stock cable? Where did you run the ground to from the IEC? I'm thinking of doing this DIY on my amps. I am also interested in getting some Townshend super tweeters but at 2k it makes it hard to pull the tigger. Have you heard 57's with the super tweeters before? Worth? Any cheaper alternatives that we know sound as good?
  13. Wow - very nice looking setup. The wood theme feels very relaxing. How do you find the quad 80 with the ESL57?
  14. Yesterday I pulled these from the shelf and plugged them back in for a listen. Has been 3 years since I last switched them on. Still sounding wonderful - big sound stage and bass. Fully restored/upgraded caps/resistors. Running Shuguang Treasure KT66-Z, Mullard EF86, and Mullard GZ32. Would love to see your Quads and hear about their story if you have them.
  15. Can't hurt. Go for low hanging fruit first. Good luck man - hifi 1st world problems.
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