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rawl99

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rawl99 last won the day on January 2 2014

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About rawl99

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  1. Australian standard specs are 90m m link plus 5m tail at each end to give 100m total distance. A certified cat 6 or cat 6A will manage these distances with no degradation in performance. There are many many environments where these length limits are stretched to the max (eg schools and corporate environments) and these cables still pass compliance testing. We often have video over cat (HdBaseT) runs that are 70 -90 m and as long as a high quality cable is used then we have no issues. Not sure where the 55m length you state is derived from. Can you be a kind soul and elaborate please as i am very interested where it is stated to be 55m. eg https://www.belden.com/blog/smart-building/whats-the-real-cat-6a-cable-distance-limit-and-why-does-it-matter
  2. Morning, This response is to your post as the well as the one a couple of posts earlier. What you are saying is not quite correct. The factor that you seem to have missed is that there is a net energy transfer along the cable from source to sink and this energy transfer HAS to be directional otherwise you would not get energy from a power station to your audio equipment and neither would your toast cook in your toaster for breakfast (unless you cheat and use a gas grill😃) So whilst the instantaneous current may appear to equally reverse polarity there is a net resultant directional energy flow. It is this attribute which I suspect gives rise to the directional behaviour of wire. I am of 2 minds as to whether the factory-drawn wire is initially directional. I have spoken with people who have done extensive experimentation who suggest that it is - and I can see logically why this could be so given the drawing process. What I have clearly experienced on many occasions is that cables seem to definitely ‘form’ in a given direction, whether they be interconnect or speaker. So if you run a cable in direction A for a reasonable period of time it will sound better in this direction than if it is reversed. MY experience over the years is that wire takes quite a period of time to fully run-in or burn-in (of the order of 400 to 600hrs) and part of this burn-in could be slight altering of the molecular structure which gives the directional end-result. Just as an extension of this: if I have a cable (speaker, interconnect, power) In use for a decent period of time (eg several weeks) and I then move that cable creating mechanical bending, the sound quality will noticeably suffer for a period anywhere from an hour or two up to a week or so as the cable molecularly re-forms after its movement. This is a monumental pita and when combined with settling time of connectors makes cable comparisons a very difficult thing to do to achieve meaningful outcomes. Who has had their system singing and then had a Gtg where you played with cables or component swapping and then noticed that the system was sounding like crap after you put it all back to its original configuration after the Gtg? Been there done that. Anyway, that’s my 2 bob worth. Rawl
  3. Ric, Totally agree on the brush plates. The stud is not really an issue. If it happens to coincide with where the marble is then one can skew drill sideways through the stud using the plate hole as the access point for drilling. Ie angle the drill at 45-60 degrees to drill sideways through the stud. One of the holes on either inside or outside will give access to drill a chunk out of the stud to get the cable through. Do this all the time. Tis not much of an issue with some spade bits and possibly a short extension bit. The only caveat is that depending on the stud positions it my not be possible to get the plate for the speaker cable directly behind the speaker where it looks the nicest. It will quite possibly end up just outside of the marble side of the cabinet. Theres my ocd in action😃 I would avoid drilling the marble as it is then permanent. I would seriously avoid going up the wall. Degree of difficulty of that is 50 times doing the short run sideways. To go up wall across and down, inherent in your assumption is that this either single story or top floor of multi-story and that you have decent ceiling access. Will also need drills and extension bits to drill down through the nog plus rods to get down the wall. Specialised gear that only AV monkeys and sparkies will typically have. Sideways be the winner. Be careful that there is not Dacron insulation in the wall. It makes this a difficult exercise as it grabs drill bits like a pit bull. Cheers mate Rawl
  4. Nor an uncommon approach to signal grounding. You will see the shield is cut off at the switch end so the grounding is effectively a bus grounding approach where the bare copper wires act as an “earth bus” for each channel. Note that the shields are connected to the bus at each of the rca sockets. There is no return ground signal running through the shield on the coax to the switch which is really the correct way of shielding a signal line. Similar concept to using a 2 core shielded conductor for a mono signal ( eg analog interconnect) where the 2 cores function as signal and ground respectively and the shield is connected at source end only. In this switchbox to isolate the grounds for each of the sources you need a switch with another wafer to switch the grounds in synchronised manner with the signal lines. Only then will the grounds be truly isolated from each other.
  5. Make one yourself if you are handy with a soldering iron. This gives you the choice if switch/connectors which you are free to choose depending on the level you want to go to to match the quality of components you have. The rca sockets and the switch can make a tragic difference to the performance of the switch box. The very vast majority of off-the-shelf units I have seen have tin plated steel sockets. The better quality ones one hopes would be at least brass connectors.
  6. Max, ‘I don’t own either (deliberately) as I have been less than impressed with what these products do. First comment: IME quality power cables/connectors/power boards are definitely not snake oil. Second comment: different brands of power devices (cables connectors, power boards) seem to have different sonic characters to them - or house sound if you wish to describe it that way. If you like what I describe as a brittle, etched and forward, somewhat overly-detailed type of sound signature these products may appeal perfectly to you. I am much more of the harmonically rich and natural sound preference and find that the Isoteks I have played with and listened to remove the sound signature I like. I have a mate in the industry who just purchased a handful of isotek products (power board and several cables) for his own rig and, frankly, he hates them. He bought them on another’s recommendation and wishes he had not. So to now appear to contradict myself. However, depending on the components you have, these cables possibly may be exactly what you are looking for. Hi Fi systems are very much a collective of signature sounds or a collective of Yin and Yang components. Getting YOUR ideal balance can involve a decent bit of experimentation. That is a good part of what makes this hobby: fun, frustrating, potentially expensive, rewarding. See if there is anywhere you can borrow a fully run-in Isotek cable/power strip to try on your system so you can make a fully informed decision. I am sure others will voice decidedly different viewpoints on these products. That is part of the challenge of Hi-Fi: i.e. In what system context have their experiences been had? Good Luck Rawl
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