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davewantsmoore last won the day on April 22 2017

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About davewantsmoore

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    Log! It's big, it's heavy, it's wood.
  • Birthday October 16

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  1. Interesting they quoted that.... He phased this out over time somewhat. Did it actually say "notch" specifically.... he also used a shelf filter (through 1-4k) for a similar reason. I felt the Q he used on the shelf was quite high.... but it really does depend on what content (like you noticed). If you own the plans for any of his speakers you can read about it all (and much discussion of it) on his forums.... or could, I haven't checked if they're still going these days.
  2. Most people do a terrible job of it. Adding a sub to a system is like converting a 2 way speaker into a 3 way speaker... You don't just "guess" at the crossover design and alignment.... which is really, what most people end up doing. People should really use some sort of device that can calibrate the speakers, like an AV receiver with something like Audyssey for example .... or a device dedicated to integrating a subwoofer like a box from Dspeaker.
  3. Nah.... he should just be able to go to the moodle.local address on a web browser and see the moodle interface, and start streaming music.
  4. You already got them If they don't work (ie. you can't to the moodle.local address you were told to go to) .... then someone will need to troubleshoot why you can't. It's like starting your car.... you turn the key. If that doesn't work, you don't need different instructions ..... you need to investigate why the instructions don't work. Try saying what actually happens.
  5. Again... potentially more terminology confusion "full range". If you are really asking "how far down do you run the middle-range driver" ..... then my understanding is it goes down "as far as it will go", as there is no electrical high pass filter to stop it..... just the natural response of the driver and the effect of the box. EDIT: Which is a good idea for a large hifi speaker IMVHO
  6. Yes, I'm aware... which is why I said what I did. "Terminology" is often somewhat arbitrary and confusing.... what mostly matters is actually how they're connected and what they do.... rather than what people choose to call them. Just because there's no electrical high pass filter on the "mid", or "mid/bass" or whatever you want to call the middle frequencies driver in the speaker..... doesn't really matter. It still has a highpass response (caused by the driver and the box themselves) around (I would assume) 100 to 200Hz.
  7. Audyssey can sometimes get the channel levels wrong for various complicated reasons (nothing to do with it's microphone being "not accurate enough") .... so it can be good to give it a check.
  8. So did they really come from China? Who made them? Looking v. nice
  9. Ahh... I see. It's still right to call it the "midrange driver"..... or the "bass/mid". It doesn't include an electrical high pass filter .... but the driver and the box themselves act as high pass filters Depends on how you want to use the terminology. 2.5 usually refers to two identical woofers, where on has a low pass filter. eg. two woofers which play from 40 to 1400Hz ....but one has a low pass filter stopping it from playing above 200Hz. Here, it's really just a mid/bass driver, which doesn't have/need an electrical high pass filter.
  10. Semantics. It's "right" to call it the "midrange" seeing as it handles from 200hz (or wherever) up to the tweeter.
  11. For example. Let's say you did you experiment where you played 8khz and 25khz from seperate speakers (and you noticed that when you added 25khz to 8khz, that it was audible.... but 25khz alone was not). ... and we put a microphone in the room, which only recorded up to 20khz.... and recorded the trials. Do you think that when you played back 8khz alone .... vs 8khz+25khz .... that you would hear exactly the same difference you noticed when listening to the experiment? I do.
  12. There is also the potential for amplitude modulation of the signal between 20-20k. I don't understand why you say that. If the HF tone modules the LF tone, then it could be audible. However, if we think back to recording. If the HF tone modulated the LF tone, then the microphone records the (modulated) LF tone .... which is stored and then played back. So there isn't a need to record, or store, or reproduce the HF tone, to experience its (indirect) effects. But aren't you assuming that you need to record/reproduce > 20khz for this to happen ..... rather than just record/reproduce the effect that it has on the audible frequency range. You're making a large leap with respect to what your results mean.
  13. There a number of things to appreciate about this first. The goal is "constant directivity" .... but this poses a big issue for the typical speaker. Between 250 and 1000Hz, they have a very wide coverage angle.... That is because the only way to narrow the coverage pattern below 1000 Hz, is to either use a very large horn ... or to use interference (eg. a dipole / cardioid arrangement). So, often the goal for a speaker like this is to no control it's tweeter pattern a lot ... and so you see high end speakers only using a small "bread plate" sized "horn" ... rather than a "salad bowl". For example Rockport. That is certainly NOT to say that a wide coverage angle is the most desirable ..... Just that a narrower one is (arguably) impractical. That's a segue on to capable examples of a large horn, such as Danley, or other similar concepts like the Red Spade PSE144 .... but then, one would begin to ask "acknowledged by who" precisely. I've heard megabuck speakers .... and they've very nice of course, but simply moving to a narrower, and highly controlled coverage pattern is a super-duper significant step up in performance when it is done right. People can vex all day whether or not their experience mirrors that, or whatever .... but these issues are simply a matter of the accepted understanding of physics and hearing. A speaker with a well controlled coverage pattern, won't have a particular "sweet spot". I can sit basically directly in front of my L channel speaker (it's a large horn) .... and still get almost (relatively) perfect imaging compared to the result with a typical uncontrolled and wide angle speaker.... as with the later you are receiving distorted sound when you sit in that position ... and with the former you are not. "Constant directivity" will help a lot.
  14. Try to put the amp into some type of "auto" mode.... so it can detect what it is receiving from the TV. Otherwise connect the TV to the amp with HDMI as suggested (make sure you use the ARC compatible HDMI socket on the TV)
  15. It's easy to underestimate how $$$$ a product like this (low volumes) would be to create.
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