pete_mac

Looks like a few windings on this sucker!! https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649402524-thor-tpa60-power-transformer/images/1738406/

You’re a more patient/generous man than me! If someone says they will buy something from me and then ceases all communication entirely, and I have other interested buyers, they’ll get polite follow-up messages and a few days leeway at the maximum from me. I’ve lost too many sales due to inconsiderate time wasters!

agreed 100% on this front. Any item being packed in its original packaging should have additional packaging to ensure that both the item and original packaging arrive safely and unmarked. The original packaging generally inadequate for shipping purposes.

Hmmm... fist time I’ve heard of it! Aucharm make/sell a wide variety of component-level bits like fancy fuses, IEC power connectors, speaker spades and the like. I’ve never seen any documented links to Auralic.

Indeed... I see a Q75R coming into your life in future...

The Q70 = the Q75 - different designation for different markets. From rtings: The Samsung Q80R is better than the Samsung Q70R. The Samsung Q80R can handle reflections slightly better and has a wider viewing angle thanks to the 'Ultra Viewing Angle' layer. Its local dimming is better than the Q70R and significantly helps improve dark room performance. The Samsung Q70R, on the other hand, has a higher native contrast ratio and can deliver deeper and more uniform blacks, even though its local dimming isn't as effective. I was very happy to go with the cheaper Q75R based upon the above - it suits my purposes perfectly and is an excellent TV.

Yep, that's the 82" version of what I bought. Definitely haggle on price - you can get the 82" for $4700 on ebay at the moment. I consider the Q75R range to be the 'sweet-spot' regarding performance vs price in Samsung's range.

If you go down this path, hopefully your receiver will allow you to place a high-pass filter on the main speakers (e.g. 80hz) which means that the sub does all of the heavy lifting down low, and your amp doesn't need to reproduce deep bass which places the highest demands on the power supply and output stages of any amplifier/receiver. This will provide a bit more headroom for your amp.

My two cents worth, having walked the TV purchasing tightrope quite recently (and having gone down the Samsung Q75 75" path)... The LG is an IPS panel - great wide viewing angles, but poor blacks (they can only manage dark greys in my personal experience) and they often suffer from poor screen uniformity and 'dirty screen effect' which is most apparent when watching sports where you are panning across a grassy field/oval. Once you've seen it, it cannot be unseen and will bug you forever. They aren't too bad for viewing in brighter rooms and the wide viewing angles can be a plus if you have a L-shaped lounge which places some viewers at a 45" degree angle to the TV, but they are decidedly average for watching movies in dark rooms vs VA panels. Out of the two Samsungs, the RU8000 gets the nod from rtings.com over the Q60. They have largely the same feature set, and apparently the RU8000 has better black and grey uniformity over the Q60 which is quite interesting! These both have VA panels with inferior off-axis performance, but far far better blacks than the LG. The Sony 8500 is an interesting one... most reviews cover up to the 75" models which are all IPS panels (note my comments above re: their drawbacks) but apparently the 85" is a VA panel. If you can verify this, the Sony comes into contention. If it's an IPS, I'd avoid for the reasons above. The 85" does appear to be a backlit TV rather than edgelit which is a positive if implemented well. All of your proposed TVs lack full-array local dimming which is a shame. You'd need to step down to a 75" and look at TVs like the Sony 9500 or Samsung QLED Q75 which are around the $3800-4000 mark to obtain this - haggling below the marked/advertised price is certainly possible and each should come in at $3,500 or under. I was fortunate to get my 75" Q75 for $2,900 which (Black Friday sales coupled with 20% off via an ebay voucher). If you're feeling lucky/brave and can view one in the flesh before purchasing, the Hisense 85R7 with a VA panel and full array local dimming can be had for under $3k which is a lot of TV for the money. However... in my opinion and experience the Hisense offerings are not quite up to par with Samsung/LG/Sony/Panasonic on the video processing and motioning handling stakes in my opinion (I've got a Hisense 65P7 in our living area) and the interface is a bit slower to load and respond than other mainstream TV brands. That said, I'd still go the Hisense over the LG for watching movies due to the superior blacks. Have a look at rtings.com for reviews on the above models (except the Hisense) and to learn the pros and cons of the respective panel types. I don't think there's a review of the exact LG model you mention, but there's very similar models which all use the IPS panels and the comments hold true regarding the panel types and their pros and cons. Food for thought anyway!

Excellent - great to hear real-world feedback!

I'm a bit late into the mix here... but for what it's worth, the abovementioned Hisense OLED uses a LG OLED panel coupled to Hisense electronics and image processing tech. Sadly, this remains the weak spot of the mid-tier TVs out there vs the bigger players such as Sony, Panasonic, Samsung and LG. I bought a Hisense 65P7 a year ago and it's good when fed native 4K material, but there was always something lacking regarding motion handling, and the processor is slow to boot and respond, and its upscaling isn't brilliant. My recently acquired Samsung Q75 75" has vastly superior motion handling and picture quality, upscales non-4K content nicely, and is very responsive and quick to boot. The Hisense OLED will offer deeper blacks than your Samsung (as OLEDs have an infinite contrast ratio) but I'd wager that your Samsung will be a better all-round TV.

A head which has solved a problem should never be hung in shame... particularly as this might affect your perception of stereo imaging and sound staging!!

Great news!! Woo hoo!!!!

Hang on a sec... I have a few spare mins. There are two options: 5-7mV across the emitter resistor; or 10-14mA if you remove the fuses F002 and F003 and use a multimeter to measure DC milliamps in place of the fuse. Make sure you use the correct setting on your meter, as if you don't, you can blow the fuse and this will cause screwy measurements.

Sorry, I haven't got time to research this today (I'm at work) so I'd suggest having a look at audiokarma.org as there are numerous AU-101 threads there.