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About Wembley

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  1. Plasmas haven't been sold in Australia for a while now, and from memory pretty much none supported either 4K resolution or very large screen sizes. If you're looking for a good quality picture then plasma still can look great. Even the best can't show absolute black due to the way the sub-pixels are driven, and you'll be buying second hand. They are also heavy and don't really come in low power, and you won't want to have it in a super bright room. For sport and fast movement they are still hard to beat. I still enjoy watching my old Pioneer Kuro, but it's only 50" and 1080P, s
  2. I moved from a 106" projector screen to an 85" LCD TV, but at the same time moved the TV off the wall to instead line up with the front of my entertainment unit using an articulated mount (although a regular stand would have got close it I didn't need to place my centre speaker on top of the unit as well). The screen is perceptually a touch smaller, but moving a screen about 600mm forward changes the ratios enough that the difference is much less than 10% in my case. There are cases where the trade off can be worth it for individuals, so long as you know and accept the differences
  3. Selling my JVC X35 projector. In great condition (apart from a little cosmetic dust). This come with 4 x 3D glasses and RF transmitter, and I am happy to include the extras including roof mount and 106" screen as part of the deal. The current lamp (third I think) has less than 800 hours on it, and is a genuine JVC supplied unit. I believe I have the original box in the shed still. This projector is a straight 1920x1080 without the e-shift capability. Selling as I've decided to upgrade to 4K, otherwise no complaints about this unit at all. Roof mount I recall being a Peerless
  4. That's a good level of fault finding to start. There are several elements unique to what I assume is a PC as opposed to the laptops you tested. My first guess is that the issue is actually EMI from various elements in your PC being caught somewhere in either the USB chain or sound processing. The reason that is my first thought is that the load on a power supply isn't likely to vary radically with minor system changes such as a mouse wheel scrolling. That doesn't eliminate the power supply as either the source of the noise nor of being a link for noise generated elsewhere. I don't think
  5. It looks like you lose the front HDMI input, the AM/FM tuner and possibly some analog - HMDI conversion (not sure on that last one) in 3600H, but gain 1 channel in and 1 out of HDMI 2.1 video processing and passthrough. All sound processing and power appear identical. I'm looking to upgrade and they are near enough to identical for most purposes. I'll probably look for the 3700H in a few months as I expect it'll go on sale while it looks like the 3600H hasn't had the usual end of life price drop (or the sales are all passed). Until stock arrives for the 3700H both are looking
  6. I'm looking at the option of upgrading my X35, but as has been observed already it has only got the manual iris. I mainly open it up use it to increase the light output as the lamp ages myself. Sadly a shift to 4k will also mean a new AVR to replace my Denon 4311 and new cabling. If I could be satisfied with a smaller screen I'd look at the 85-92" televisions, but the 100"+ screens due this year are just too expensive still. I suspect my next projector will be the last though. Projectors seem to come up semi-regularly here though, so I'm sure it won't be a very long wait to f
  7. I've built a couple of three-channel amps using hand-populated boards from the DIYaudio site. Good planning and working your layout helps a lot. Also the kit you're looking at is a <40W at 8 ohms per channel so you'll definitely need to work up the scale once you get some confidence. As you appear to be in the Perth area I'm more than happy to chat in person and might in future be persuaded to assist with some testing if you want to get access to an oscilloscope, etc. I also can't recommend Rod Elliot's site and information enough. Read his pages on designing and working w
  8. The price was certainly right, and if I recall correctly the Agilent brand used to be Hewlett Packard who produced some quite nice test equipment. It should serve your purposes nicely, and even appears to have some basic FFT functionality. Nice pick up indeed.
  9. Sadly I'm at the wrong end of the city to be able to drop around, but I will suggest that you need to address the question of determining why it needs a re-install at all. If it's something you know the cause of, or finger trouble of your own then that's fine. If not, I'd recommend having a look (or having someone else look) and see if there is an underlying issue that needs fixing first. On the re-install, detecting additional drives (normally actually the drive interface/controller) may just be a matter of installing the right extra drivers for your mainboard. Depending on y
  10. I bought myself a Rigol a few years ago with no complaints. I read a few reviews and the EEVblog was definitely a great resource. From memory the price might have been a little more than your listed value at the time. The issue with it (and likely most others) is that if you're working the the audio domain with a MHz rated system that the FFT will scale accordingly and it's hard to narrow down to a limited bandwidth. I don't recall whether it even has a THD measurement. I actually used a combination of the digital oscilloscope and a PC/sound card with free measurement softwar
  11. I think you've really answered your own question. The 780 is the baseline model meets your requirements without extras you say you won't need. Both the 880 and 1080 come with pre-outs as well if you ever wanted to add external amplification, but in the short term I really don't think it's a likely requirement. The 1080 does add a bunch of sound processing options (the one thing I think is a strength of Yamaha, but my experience is with a much older unit). It also adds HDMI output for a second zone, but the price gets close to doubling. If you don't need those functions, go wi
  12. Sensitivity is, broadly speaking, how much volume you can get from your speakers for each watt of power that you put in. A more sensitive speaker will produce more volume for the same power. When you try and reach a volume that exceeds your amplifier's power rating then you get distortion and the sound rapidly gets worse. When you push more power from an amplifier than speakers are rated for then you run the risk of either excessive speaker cone excursion (the cones will first distort and then ultimately break) or burning out the coils that drive the cones with too much heat. So
  13. Can I suggest that the first place you want to start is a good speaker modelling program, or set of spreadsheets. Follow that by choosing a couple of web sites with good information and some basic designs to look at for inspiration and driver combinations. This site, DIYAudio and Zaph Audio all have some good information for a start. You'll need to make some decisions around whether you like sealed or ported bass drivers, dome or horn/waveguide tweeters, etc. I'm starting with a basic ported woofer and hard dome tweeter with DSP to manage cross-overs if I ever get finished on
  14. I'll add one more piece of advice if you wanted to explore the external power amplifier option. It looks like the 2310 has pre-outs, so there is not a lot of risk if you were to test a more powerful 2-channel power amp. You should be able to get one meeting your needs from the classified here (recommended) or from ebay/gumtree. That would both provide you savings over buying a new amp and if you decide it doesn't make a difference, or enough of a difference, you should be able to on-sell it for close to the second hand price you paid. There is some good advice above and in other threads ab
  15. I've been planning an upgrade of my own very soon, so looked at a few possible options. Firstly, the RX6 speakers are rated at 125W at 6 ohms. Not a hard load and not particularly high power as these things go. Looking at the Emotiva power amp, it's a two channel model that's likely to be $1000 or more landed in Australia, and all reporting says that Emotiva have just closed their local distribution channels which means support in future will be by return to the USA. On top of that, it's a two channel amp with 150W per channel (8 ohms). Given that you prefer stereo an
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