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About Wembley

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  1. I've built a couple of three-channel amps using hand-populated boards from the DIYaudio site. Good planning and working your layout helps a lot. Also the kit you're looking at is a <40W at 8 ohms per channel so you'll definitely need to work up the scale once you get some confidence. As you appear to be in the Perth area I'm more than happy to chat in person and might in future be persuaded to assist with some testing if you want to get access to an oscilloscope, etc. I also can't recommend Rod Elliot's site and information enough. Read his pages on designing and working with power supplies before you start to build anything. Good luck with it though!
  2. The price was certainly right, and if I recall correctly the Agilent brand used to be Hewlett Packard who produced some quite nice test equipment. It should serve your purposes nicely, and even appears to have some basic FFT functionality. Nice pick up indeed.
  3. Sadly I'm at the wrong end of the city to be able to drop around, but I will suggest that you need to address the question of determining why it needs a re-install at all. If it's something you know the cause of, or finger trouble of your own then that's fine. If not, I'd recommend having a look (or having someone else look) and see if there is an underlying issue that needs fixing first. On the re-install, detecting additional drives (normally actually the drive interface/controller) may just be a matter of installing the right extra drivers for your mainboard. Depending on your Windows licensing you may also want to install Windows 7 and then update to Windows 10 instead of installing W10 directly. Hopefully you can get it all sorted.
  4. I bought myself a Rigol a few years ago with no complaints. I read a few reviews and the EEVblog was definitely a great resource. From memory the price might have been a little more than your listed value at the time. The issue with it (and likely most others) is that if you're working the the audio domain with a MHz rated system that the FFT will scale accordingly and it's hard to narrow down to a limited bandwidth. I don't recall whether it even has a THD measurement. I actually used a combination of the digital oscilloscope and a PC/sound card with free measurement software for measuring my DIY amplifier. The oscilloscope gave me high voltage behaviour and a look at the full spectrum and waveform, while the computer with soundcard let me filter and measure the 20-20kHz bandwidth with higher precision. An oscilloscope with FFT can be a limited replacement for a spectrum analyser, but I did run into a few issues. I'd happily get another Rigol though, from a reliability and ease of use perspective.
  5. I think you've really answered your own question. The 780 is the baseline model meets your requirements without extras you say you won't need. Both the 880 and 1080 come with pre-outs as well if you ever wanted to add external amplification, but in the short term I really don't think it's a likely requirement. The 1080 does add a bunch of sound processing options (the one thing I think is a strength of Yamaha, but my experience is with a much older unit). It also adds HDMI output for a second zone, but the price gets close to doubling. If you don't need those functions, go with the cheapest option and use that to inform a future purchase a few years down the track when you might know what weaknesses you have in your current system that need addressing or you're looking to upgrade. If you're not limited to Yamaha, take a look at the competing options at the same price point, but I doubt you'll be disappointed with any well known AVR option.
  6. Sensitivity is, broadly speaking, how much volume you can get from your speakers for each watt of power that you put in. A more sensitive speaker will produce more volume for the same power. When you try and reach a volume that exceeds your amplifier's power rating then you get distortion and the sound rapidly gets worse. When you push more power from an amplifier than speakers are rated for then you run the risk of either excessive speaker cone excursion (the cones will first distort and then ultimately break) or burning out the coils that drive the cones with too much heat. Sound is perceived on a logarithmic scale, which means that 10 times the audio output energy will sound about twice as loud. Extra sound energy comes either from more power from the amplifier or more sensitivity from the speakers (or both). On top of that you need to rate your speaker and amplifier combination so that they don't distort on the loudest parts of your preferred music, and not just the background levels. The Rotel you list is conservatively listed as a 60W per channel amplifier. That's a relatively low output for a solid state amplifier, but not excessively so. Speakers with a low sensitivity will limit you to either sitting close to the speaker or to low total volume. Higher sensitivity speakers open more options for the size of room they will suit and how close you need to sit to hear a volume that meets your preference. Music style also plays a part, with classical typically having higher peaks than pop, and needing more total available output to avoid issues. One more minor technical issue it looks like you're across. The existing speaker enclosures will provide a fixed volume of air for your new drivers. Look for drivers which match the volume of each compartment of your enclosures as well as fit the cutouts. The wrong driver may not hit the frequencies you expect from the raw numbers, or may suffer frequency peaks or roll-offs. Again, there are good spreadsheets and software to help see how a driver responds in an enclosure.
  7. Can I suggest that the first place you want to start is a good speaker modelling program, or set of spreadsheets. Follow that by choosing a couple of web sites with good information and some basic designs to look at for inspiration and driver combinations. This site, DIYAudio and Zaph Audio all have some good information for a start. You'll need to make some decisions around whether you like sealed or ported bass drivers, dome or horn/waveguide tweeters, etc. I'm starting with a basic ported woofer and hard dome tweeter with DSP to manage cross-overs if I ever get finished on my speakers. Nothing to complicated and it plays to my strengths in computing and electronics. You'll sometimes see drivers from sale here, and a number of sites that sell mid-range models at all price points both on-shore and international. I chose to go with a sensitivity of 90dB/W for my target, which limits some choices to more PA oriented suppliers such as 18 sound, B&C, FaitalPro, etc. Lower sensitivity opens up a lot more options. My issue was with finding a woofer with 90-96 dB/W of sensitivity while still reaching sufficiently low. I originally bought some 90dB drivers but have since bought a more sensitive set with the intent of keeping the amp gain constant instead of making up the difference with more power to compensate for baffle step losses. Everything is a trade-off and you need to make some choices before anyone can really give you some better tailored feedback. Otherwise get some cheap drivers and have a play. Expensive though drivers can be, the real time cost is in crossover design and that's the bit that takes real research and skill I would think.
  8. I'll add one more piece of advice if you wanted to explore the external power amplifier option. It looks like the 2310 has pre-outs, so there is not a lot of risk if you were to test a more powerful 2-channel power amp. You should be able to get one meeting your needs from the classified here (recommended) or from ebay/gumtree. That would both provide you savings over buying a new amp and if you decide it doesn't make a difference, or enough of a difference, you should be able to on-sell it for close to the second hand price you paid. There is some good advice above and in other threads about what would be a good value and effective power amp for those or any future speakers. My personal solution, should I ever finish it, is some DIY active 3-way speakers which is in effect a very similar solution to the one proposed above with a good quality power amp.
  9. I've been planning an upgrade of my own very soon, so looked at a few possible options. Firstly, the RX6 speakers are rated at 125W at 6 ohms. Not a hard load and not particularly high power as these things go. Looking at the Emotiva power amp, it's a two channel model that's likely to be $1000 or more landed in Australia, and all reporting says that Emotiva have just closed their local distribution channels which means support in future will be by return to the USA. On top of that, it's a two channel amp with 150W per channel (8 ohms). Given that you prefer stereo and are happy to bi-amp your speakers I don't think a lack of power or lack of channels from a mid-range AVR is going to be a limiting factor for you, so this wouldn't be my recommendation. Looking at just the Denon line of AVRs, the X3600H is actually a step up on the NR1710 or your existing 2310. The X2600H is much closer in features and price point. But given your requirements I'd recommend the Denon X3600H bi-amped into your existing speakers. It has all the fruit you're likely to need in terms of direct mode for stereo listening, 100W+ per channel and support for 9 channels driven (obviously at lower total power once you're multi-channeling). That would allow a bi-amp front pair, and a 5.1.2 atmos setup in the future if you wished to go that way later (while still retaining the bi-amped front pair). Cost is about the same as a smaller AVR plus the external amp. This all assumes that you're happy with the sound of a Denon amp with your current speakers, which it sounds like you are. It's reviewed in detail at https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/denon-avr-x3600h-av-receiver-review.12676/ There are similar AVRs at a roughly similar price point. It's worth a little research to see which brand and features suit you. If you do elect to go another Denon, I'd recommend the phone app for Audyssey and set it up with Audyssey frequency limited to between 300-500Hz or so to get good bass management without changing the sound of your speakers too much. Compare that with a HT bypass and see which sound you prefer, but a little EQ might not be a bad thing.
  10. A different price range at a different time in the market. Now AVRs and related products are largely competing with wireless systems and sound bars in the mass market. Not to mention that these units list at US$2500 for the X6700H while the review I found from 2008 lists the AVP-A1HDCI at US$7,500 before you look at a matching amplifier. Commodity pricing means commodity build quality, with Denon being very far from the worst. Improved miniaturisation and DSP capabilities make up some but not all of the difference. The reality is, just as with my much loved Pioneer Kuro plasma, that being top of the market doesn't mean an economic product or good market share and sustainability. I've been very happy with my current AVR-4311 and an upgrade to something like the X3700H or X4700H is about due and they look like fair products for the price. I'd have liked something to have come from the rumours of looking into DIRAC to replace Auddysey, but the new phone app and frequency cut-off is still a step up from my current setup. In my opinion, from a value for money perspective and as a lover of maintaining a separate AVR/amps in my rack, these new models look pretty good. Doubly so if I can avoid paying full retail. Sadly for many, the high end is harder to justify and becoming increasingly niche. Honestly, even with the current line-up, with an X4700H I'd be paying for quite a lot of analog input and processing I'll never use with my current setup.
  11. I'm a fan of the Denon as I happen to like the Audyssey room correction if you wanted to use that in future. In theory you could cascade the HDMI output into a second AVR, but you'll likely have two problems. One is that you may get downmixing in the main channel, depending on the units and what you attach. The second and bigger issue for me would be the fact that, as I understand it, the HDMI wouldn't pass down any volume changes from the main unit, so you'd have to adjust volume independently. Either through a zone two control or using the second amp's volume. Not my idea of fun. Using the pre-outs on either unit will be a much better solution if your secondary amplifier has a multi-channel analog input (most should). That way you get volume tracking and only need to level match once. This won't disable the internal amplification but if you don't have a speaker attached to the speaker output it's consuming little power and won't cause you any issues. My actual recommendation would be to get the multi-channel AVR of your choice and try it as the only audio source to begin. Then try it with your old amp driving the front speakers and then again driving some surrounds and see if either option actually sounds any different to you. It's a lot of complexity to add two amps unless you're getting a real audio improvement. Regards, Damian.
  12. Item: JVC PK-L2210U Projector Lamp Location: Western Australia Price: Free Item Condition: New Reason for selling: Item does not fit my projector Payment Method: Pickup Preferred Extra Info: This was shipped from Amazon some time ago as a PK-L2312UG Projector Lamp, but it does not fit my JVC X35 projector. As far as I can tell it's actually a JVC PK-L2210U Projector Lamp. This is an after market lamp and not a genuine lamp from JVC. If you'd like it and you're local, we can arrange a time to exchange it. If you want it posted, I'm happy but postage will be at your expense. If you're charitable and it works, a donation to Stereonet never goes astray. Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
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