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  1. Thanks Brian, when you say not too deep on the rebate, I’m assuming you mean try to leave more of the cross-section of the side and top/bottom panels showing, framing the front and rear baffles? I had planned to leave 10mm, as I figured more surface area behind the baffles for gluing. Also I’ll be wrapping the black vinyl around the the cross section into the inside of the rebate so I may cut the front baffle very very marginally small to leave room for this, so I figured the extra surface area behind for glue will give me a better seal.. Good advice rebating deep enough that an
  2. Looking forward to getting to the workshop this evening. Plan is: 1. Cut exact depth (depth as in speaker cabinet depth) of sides, top and bottom panels. 2. Cut 45 degree corners on sides, top and bottom panels. 3. Cut rebate for front and rear baffles to sit in. 4. Mock up box, measure rebated width to confirm baffle width and height needed. (measure internal width, depth and height too for internal bracing) 5. Cut front and rear baffles to size. Back to the workshop tomorrow for 4-5hrs too. Will aim to: 1. Cut internal braces 2. Cut
  3. I put these aside and gave it some though. I'm going to cut the eyelet (opposite side to the wire), and spread it to fit. should work ok hopefully.
  4. Hehe, sorry Aris my knowledge of amplification is fairly limitied. Does the Octave pre have speaker outputs which connect directly to the M/T binding posts, or you have a valve pre into both a valve power amp for the M/T, and a class D for the bass? I guess my question is in amplification do you have 2 pieces of equipment or 3?
  5. 2 sets of binding posts, parallel crossovers (ie. bass crossover tweeter/mid crossovers are not connected inside the speaker - they have to be bridged to run on 1 set of speaker cables.)
  6. Howdy folks, to avoid clogging up another thread i thought i'd post the question up here. If you have 3 way speakers and want to run the treble and mid with tubes, and the bass driver with a class D power amp, are there options to get a Tube integrated with a pre out (ie. only 2 amplifiers required), or do you need to run a pre amp and split the output to the tube amp and power amp for powering the drivers? Can someone explain it to me? thanks
  7. Aris, does the Octave run as a preamp for the bass amplifier? so you need the gain on the bass amp matched so that it increases in line with volume on the Octave running integrated on the M/T? Just trying to get my head around it..
  8. Thanks Aris, glad you've taken some time and tried a few setups before making any reviews/comments. As keen as i am to hear your in depth review, I appreciate that waiting until you've had time to properly gauge the performance and decided what the best setup is for you is important in allowing you to make a proper assessment. Much appreciated. My wife has already prompted that "we'll probably be looking at amplifiers next, won't we..", so this info is very helpful. I have no experience with tubes/valves, am hopeful at some stage another Sydney person looks at building thes
  9. Hard to find extra time for the project - young kids.. I'll have to wait until the Thursday class to get back into it, and I have Friday off so should be able to log 3 hours then. Hopefully 6hrs of workshop time this week has all panels cut to size including internal bracings, and the rebate/step down in the sides, top and bottom panels for the front and rear baffles to sit in. It would be great to get the circles cut out of the bracings too this week, might be a stretch though. I'll cut bracings slightly oversized first cut, then trim them to exact measurements 2nd rou
  10. Oh and taking the time to look at the panels and figure out what grain i want on the front baffles was fun. Taking into account the driver placement i think they should look pretty good. Now where do i source some red dye.. On my cut list diagrams i've labelled the panels A through to Z, and then i'm marking the facing material with that letter, and also marking depth and width edges so i keep the grains consistent (even though i plan to vinyl). The physical markings are helpful, would get very confusing very quickly.
  11. It's a great workshop, i can see myself paying to use the facilities again after this course. I've already amassed a decent little cache of offcuts which would be more than useful for chopping boards or other small objects. Pricing is pretty reasonable, $250 for 5 full days you can use over 3 months, or $280 a month for 6 day a week full access. The table saw is a really nice unit, it has a scriver blade for getting a very clean cut, and the rolling bed is huge, clamps too which were very helpful today. The metal bench is just beside the workshop, it's actually for the metal wo
  12. External panels first cut, going to tidy up depth of each to exact measurement and leave height over so I can cut to correct length when cutting 45 degree ends. getting more confident using the table saw, just make sure those fingers are well clear! That’ll probably be it for me for today.
  13. Yes B/BB architectural 24mm birch for the outside panels, and the same but 18mm for internal bracing.
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