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  1. I want whatever classifieds you’re smoking! 😉 Honestly, I”m not seeing that level of depreciation. Maybe you’re just talking high end items for rich and fussy buyers, and not the nature strip dodgers I’m looking for?
  2. Consider external speakers from a PC (such as a Logitech 2.0 or 2.1). Beige ones are ghetto, but black ones will blend in and make speech much clearer. Plugged into the headphone out, you get adjustable volume via the TV remote.
  3. I note a rug on the floor in front of the left speaker, which will soak up some reflections that would otherwise go toward your ears. I'd also suggest moving the speakers forward (do this when nobody's around so you don't get into trouble for messing with this immaculate room!) and experiment from there.
  4. I hope this doesn't end with the guy buying a Bose clock radio 'to have something that sounds amazing and avoids all that clutter' 😉 I know how suggestible cyclists can be after a challenging ascent and seven short blacks. Project's classic Evo in walnut might be the business? It's a bit more retro than the X2 or their other models. A good LP collection is sold separately. The way those LEDs fit the top of the deck is not exactly Linn but neither is the price tag. For speakers, some Klipsch Heresys are a genuine mid-century design. Shown here in walnut, but
  5. There are two versions of the mid-bass driver, which should be a DW200/4, an in-house B&W part, as noted in this article on TNT audio. https://www.tnt-audio.com/casse/bw_dm4_e.html. The earlier version has a white surround, and the later ones have a black surround. Is there any chance you’ve got one of each?? Combing eBay and a placing a want-to-buy ad in the classifieds is probably the best way to locate the one you need. Certainly it’s worth trying to track one down. Great speakers! Check out the refurb thread on a pair at:
  6. No worries 😊 One circuit that might suit you is very popular on DIY Audio and nicknamed the ‘Honey Badger’. It offers 150W from a +-60V rails. Lengthy discussion of the circuit going back nearly 10 years! https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/192431-diyab-amp-honey-badger.html More discussion from builders of the amp https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/211905-diyab-amp-honey-badger-build-thread.html PCBs for sale at https://diyaudiostore.com/products/honey-badger Another popular option: eBay has lots of clones of o
  7. To kick off the conversation, have you had a chance to demo any of these, or is there a shop nearby? All seem pretty solid. 👍 The other question is whether you were basically happy overall with the B&Ws in terms of their tonal balance and whether they gave you enough volume in your setup? 🙂
  8. It’s possible the phono stage on the Yamaha was not as accurate in equalisation as the new CA, and added a bit of brightness that just sounded better in your system even if it wasn’t ‘correct’. Or maybe it added a little volume boost, relative to the line inputs at the same volume control setting. To compare, if you still have the Yamaha, you could plug your turntable into it, then plug a lead between a ‘tape out’ or ‘pre out’ of the Yamaha into a line input on your CA integrated. Effectively the Yamaha becomes an oversized phono stage and you can listen for differences against the th
  9. These amps appear to have an updated driver board, using two valves (instead of the single 6AN8). Would you happen to know where it’s from? I’ve seen a few driver board updates that are popular with the Mark IIIs but don’t recognise these. 🙂 They’re really classic amps with heaps of grunt anyway. Good luck with your sale!
  10. Hi Vilan, maybe head over to the DIY forum for suggestions on an amp circuit that would suit your power supply. https://www.stereo.net.au/forums/forum/15-diy-audio-projects/ Are you looking for a certain power output, or a low cost project, or anything in particular? eBay and AliExpress would have some assembled boards that might suit you too. PS you’ve put your username (vilan) as the ‘topic’ or subject of your thread, but this should be a brief description of what you are asking about! This makes it easier for others to help 🙂
  11. It seems those devices in the article (Sonos, Bluesound and B&O) all have analogue inputs. Sonos and Bluesound use a 3.5mm stereo jack, with B&O using stereo RCAs. So you just need the right cable from the Rotel’s pre out jacks to match the device. I too would like to know what’s considered the best value solution here. Maybe it’s just about getting an older model, such as the Bluesound 2, rather than the current 2i? Or perhaps other devices entirely, such as an old laptop that could do the job?
  12. Would you say it’s not worth repairing the unit as it is? It’s an older sub I think? FWIW there are assembled subwoofer boards on eBay that might be cheaper than a scratch build (they need a power supply etc). I have no experience with them but maybe they’re worth investigating? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284249677626 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233227360854
  13. As you say, seems the amp is pushing the bookshelf speakers too hard. Ratings aside, if you can hear distortion and popping noises, then it’s time to back off or risk causing damage! BTW I think you could run the dac directly into the power amp and use the laptop as a volume control? I don’t think it’ll help this problem but maybe could satisfy your curiosity about the role of the Cambridge. Note you should make sure dac and laptop are connected and on before power amp is switched on.
  14. I’ll point the finger at those speakers but it’d be interesting to know more about how your room is set up, as in how far you are from the speakers and how far they are from the wall, and also how it is furnished. Sometimes room tweaks can make a big difference. Back to equipment. What led you to pick the B&Ws? Did you get to audition them at home? It’s so good when you can demo things this way! 🙂
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