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niss_man

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niss_man last won the day on March 2 2017

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About niss_man

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  • Birthday July 2

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    Simon

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  1. How's the project going Grem? Can we come around for a listen yet? Simon
  2. Further information: I was using this as a centre channel speaker for my home theatre but now I'm not. This has brilliant sound quality and uses excellent Danish VIFA woofers and tweeter. Gloss black. Dimensions: 780mm W x 180mm H x 210mm D. Photos: PLEASE READ If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved
  3. Further information: Was recently rebuilt and adjusted 1 year ago. A few scuff marks with age and a couple of screws missing from top cover (plenty of other screws holding it on though so it is all good). The Bryston 3B is a solid state power amplifier, made by Bryston in Canada. Bryston has been famous for their high-end audio amplifiers and preamplifiers in Canada since the later '70's for their quality sound and reliability. It has a simple design of a heavy, sturdy black box with handles at the side to make it easier to carry. The Bryston 3B sounds open, has smoother and better extended highs and lows with a tight grip on the bass. It produces clear, fast, powerful, inspiring and detailed sound. The amplifier is a real powerhouse and it is best suited for movies with power and clarity of the Bryston 3B. Even when powering only two speakers, the sound explodes into the room with impactful and detailed sound. For example in a movie scene when the chain gun usually turns the sound into a compressed mash of gunfire with normal amplifiers, the Bryston 3B can produce detailed sounds of each round of the chain gun without the amplifier running out steam. The Bryston 3B is perfect for playing fast and powerful sounds in action movies and able to bring out the best characteristics of such genre. Specifications : Solid State / Tubed Solid State Power 100 Watts / Channel @ 8 Ω 200 Watts / Channel @ 4 Ω 400 Watts Bridged/Mono @ 8 Ω Frequency Response 20 Hz - 20 kHz Slew Rate 60 Volts / microsecond Total Harmonic Distortion 0.05 % Intermodulation Distortion 0.025 % Sensitivity 1.0 Volts Signal-to-Noise Ratio 100 dB Crosstalk Below 100 dB Damping Factor 500 @ 20 Hz Output Class AB Dimensions (W x D x H) 19 x 9 x 5.25 in. [48.26 x 22.86 x 13.34 cm] Weight 35 lbs. [15.89 kg] Photos: PLEASE READ If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved
  4. Further information: A stunning CD player with R2R Dac chips 4 x PCM1702. About 14Kg in weight. Remote included. Has both optical and coaxial digital inputs and outputs so can be used as a stand alone DAC. Photos: PLEASE READ If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved
  5. Further information: I purchased these subwoofers 2nd hand a few years ago with intent to use them in my system. That didn't eventuate so they have been sitting around. These are the Shiva 12" subs. They are built like tanks as seen in the pictures. You can have them with or without the cabinets (which are made from kitchen benchtop material), price is the same. Have not got boxes for these so prefer local pickup only. They are heavy beasts. Photos: PLEASE READ If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved
  6. Welcome Geordie. You're certainly going to find a few of those on this site.
  7. Just putting this thread up as promised to @DavidDoerfer who kindly paid forward some free gear a few weeks ago. I received this amplifier for free from David. A NAD 3155 a bit of research shows they were built in 1985 and this one has been particularly well looked after. Nad specs. I wish all amps had proper specs like this (not many do anymore) instead of inflated power figures at high distortion figures this one shows both chanels driven from 20-20khz with no more than the rated distortion (which is nice and low). I decided to not even power this amp up and just went into replacing a few capacitors and checking all of them with my meter. Mind you I would have expected this to have worked since most caps were well within spec. The board looked in good condition with what seemed to be original transistors as well. You will notice that all the electrolytic capacitors on each board have their negative side all facing the same direction. Makes it easy to know which way to place the caps when soldering. (nice engineering thought). I always found the heatsinks in these Nads interesting. It looks like they used an L piece of extruded aluminium and then get some sharp fins to scrape down the edges to create the fins for the heatsink as evident by the curly ends of the fins. I haven't checked, but I think these are original transistors. The caps I replaced. Note that 95% of these were still within spec but I replaced them anyway with new ones. I didn't replace the Power supply caps but they were well within spec and reused them. I connect a bulb tester (have not got a variac). the bulb is connected in series with the 240v mains and the amp pluged in afterwards. When powering up the bulbs glows bright briefly (less than a few tenths of a second) before dimming down to barely just on. If it continues to glow brightly then there is something wrong with the amp blown transistor or what not that needs to be fault rectified. This amp was perfectly fine. The bigger multimeter not connected here was used to show the dc offset on both chanels which was un der 0.5mV for both channels. The 2 smaller multimeters show the standby (quiescent) current through the power transistors. The manual states 20 - 25mV setting. Only a very minor tweak was needed for one channel once warmed up. It was still passable before adjusting though. Put some sine wave through. Used a 7.3ohm resistor as load and just before clipping. That was 36.8v peak...so for those who like math. 36.8 / root2 = 26v rms V = IR so Current = 26/ 7.3 (7.3 ohm load resistors) = 3.56 A Power = VI = 26 x 3.56 = 92Watts into the single channel being tested. Running both channels at the same time produced 33.2V Peak so it has around 3V droop in supply voltage with both channels used as can be expected. This equates to 75W per channel both channels flat out. This actually exceeded the NAD spec sheet although I didn't have any distortion meter on their so I could have been over driving it slighly even though the scope showed no flat spotting of the peaks of signal. Finally some pics of the amp playing through some speakers. The amp still sounds great and hopefully has another good 20 years of life left in it. Can't tell this is a diy household at all can we. Cheers Simon
  8. I have found nuvotem to be noisy (hum) as well. I've 2 of the exact model nuvotem and one was noisier than the other. Torroidy transformers on the other hand are great.
  9. I would be happy to take those off your hands.,🙂
  10. Great looking speakers. Uses peerless midwoofers by the looks of it.
  11. Tke some drivers out. You may get a better idea with the model number of the drivers if the speaker has no markings.
  12. No problem Rob. If you ever want to come over to measure your speakers and see what your crossovers are doing just give us a bell.🙂
  13. The only way to tell for sure would be to get some accurate measurements and then input that into some good crossover design software. This would be the same as designing a proper crossover from scratch. I know you like to do the diy thing Rob as I have seen before, but I don't know your level of expertise in designing a crossover from scratch so I won't waffle on too much. My suggestions are to a) Buy all your measurement gear and go gung ho after buying these UDEMY courses about speaker building/crossover design. https://www.udemy.com/share/1022A0B0oYcVlbR3w=/ https://www.udemy.com/share/101sEkB0oYcVlbR3w=/ https://www.udemy.com/share/101BciB0oYcVlbR3w=/ or b) Take your speakers to someone who has done it before who can measure your speakers acurately and show you how to do the crossover design side of things. If you have time to drive down to Brisbane southern suburbs, I can help you out with option b. c) just do random crossover/component changes and use your ears as judge without ever making measurements to realise what physical change has occured. Regards Simon
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