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Al.M

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Everything posted by Al.M

  1. Not really as you are accurate or inaccurate by the same constant. However, if you are trying to make auditory sense of the perceived loudness the closest to your ear and brain interpretation is in A-weighting. Below is what an accurate mob phone app like SLA Lite looks like and it’s functions, quite adequate and nice. Has A, C and Z settings.
  2. This is a 2015 report and perhaps things have changed since then https://www.researchgate.net/publication/289502743_Testing_the_accuracy_of_smartphones_and_sound_level_meter_applications_for_measuring_environmental_noise Quote: “The accuracy of noise measurement apps varied widely relative to pre-specified reference levels. Overall, there is little doubt that iOS apps performed better than Android-based apps. While some Android apps performed better than those for the iOS in terms of mean differential from reference values (e.g. Sound Meter), the high degree of measurement variability associated with such apps renders their reliability questionable”
  3. Not sure how you would calibrate with the HT and speaker but in terms of mob phone apps google for accurate tested ones and choose one that is recommended. About half are apparently wildly inaccurate by as much as 6-10dB. 10dB equates to about twice the perceived loudness. I use SLA Lite app which is reviewed as accurate to within 0.5-2dB and compared to a $15k meter. Measurements below about 35dB start to become inaccurate by about 4-8dB.
  4. It happens to me but more from listening to the one type of amp or speaker so I have a collection of different types like standmount, floorstanders, ESL, DIY speakers and SS, Class D and tube amps. Change them around every few months. Plus having access to as many collections of music as possible to keep interested including other people’s downloaded music, media streamer etc. The brain easily tires or looses interest because it is not producing dopamine pleasure chemical reward that needs new and constant stimulation. Individual people vary widely in this. It could also be that although you have spent 25 years the journey is still ongoing. If you are able to mix with other audiophiles to have a listen and offer equipment and music suggestions that may help. I’ve been assisting someone to find their dream speakers ranging from $10-30k and visiting many audio shops and its unexpectedly got my hifi mojo back not only to go forward to find better sound but in all directions including to confirming that my modest system still keeps up with a lot of the new mega stuff and there is much going around in circles.
  5. Can also find modules in the DIYaudio.com site swap meet section, usually overseas postage to Oz. Class D - B&O Ice or Hypex, it’s a good sound way better than middle hifi solid state costing $3-4K maybe but it’s not quite good enough against say a Chinese $1500 KT88 tube or EL34 and better quality and built Solid State power amps. They are lacking a little in bass texture, nuance and somewhat 2 dimensional imaging. Recently heard a Hypex N500 with big toroids, best Class D sound I’ve heard but bass texture, nuance and depth and 3 dimension was still not quite there.
  6. A zoomed out pic may help showing any top and bottom modules. Does that mean there are 8 connectors on back of each speaker and how many drivers are there (front picture of entire speaker).
  7. If you post some clear pictures here of what you have that may help us help you
  8. Yamaha As2100, Muscial Fidelity, Luxman, Parasound etc. what budget and prefer new or used gear?
  9. The web links say it is based on a Marantz 7 preamp design not CAT?
  10. I doubt there will be any reviews as these are very ancient vintage 70s 80s and insignificant cheap and low end speakers. If no replies here best to try them out as their condition could be suspect as well.
  11. I had Naim 135 monoblocks with NAC 42 preamp and heard NAC 32 pre with NAP 250 power amp and they are very good controlled sound with punch and pace. A good tube or solid state preamp like a Supratek or Bakoon and others with nice power amp like a Krell, Passlabs, Goldmund, Parasound etc would all be lovely. A Yamaha As3000 intergrated amp would be very good etc.
  12. Mk 2 are not that different and although called Dynaudio they do not have a Dynaudio tweeters and woofers. Perhaps price them at $350, gauge response and lower if no takers after a week. Keep in mind you will be competing with true Dynaudio models like 42 and 50 that sell for around $400-600. Check Gumtree to compare what’s out there.
  13. I’ve heard the older Seas coax used in the VAF I91 in another DIY and it’s quite good as two way equivalent implementation but not as good as say Kef LS50, Fostex or Lowther (despite the problems they have). Have been listening to Kef Reference and Blade Speakers recently and the coaxial unit is extremely good to my ears and has that extra jump in quality. Perhaps a Clingon cloaking device may help in your situation and you can go back to your old ways (large fugly open baffles).
  14. A picture from you may help otherwise
  15. Which God are you referring to, there many audio system gods and genre religions my friend 😀 Until you have experienced all of them you never reach Nirvana 👳🏿‍♀️
  16. Hola and welcome, nice equipment.
  17. Welcome, looks like you have good gear.
  18. Havnt heard those speakers but assume it may be like a modern Ls3/5a or Linn Kan monitor, musical and detailed but thin bass. For $1000 used amp budget there are a lot of options to look out for, particularly ones that are warmer musical sounding like: Musical Fidelity better quality power amp KT88 tube amp of around 50w would be sublime Dynaco 70 or similar EL34 tube amp 30w also sublime Quad pre power combo Older Electrocompaniet ME power amps Pass labs F5 custom clones 20w others etc.
  19. What speakers do you have and do you enjoy listening in the recommended equilateral listening triangle
  20. Try moving the speakers right about 1m so the left speakers aren’t half firing into the stepped left wall area, toe in the speakers so they fire about 30cm past your ears and even try place sofa against wall, rear of speakers 30-80cm from wall, double check speaker and other audio cable connections are not out of phase or mixed up some how. Most speakers except for ominidirectional design are meant to be quite directional anyway or have a sweet spot so not sure what you mean, perhaps you are not used to how an accurate speaker is meant to be.
  21. Not technically ideal but my setup sounds better on long wall with head against rear wall not only because I have no option but also that it sounds quite acceptable with plenty of clarity and imaging still retained and not audibly worse than other more technically ideal setups I’ve heard and in comparison to some scenarios better sounding. Perhaps not all of the potential issues involved are explained by the technical reasons given so far.
  22. Similar discussion from another post and someone simulated not always so bad aligned on the longer wall with head against rear wall. Try whatever is practical and gauge the sound results, try both ways. In my case with 5 x 3.6 x 3.2m high room the longer wall is much better in a 2m equidistant listening triangle. Simulation below didn’t manifest those problems too badly nor am I hearing issues. Room has ample furniture with lots of reflection breakup instead of a bare very reflective room as many dedicated audio rooms seem to be.
  23. Recent example, of same speaker sounding so different in different rooms is a VAF I66, which I had 15 years ago in a larger room and I thought is was merely Ok good but lacked bass, thin sounding and cold so I sold it. Acquired another pair of VAF I66 a few months ago this time in a smaller room and my sound experience completely different, much more bass, warm sound, musicality, great tone, incredible focussed midrange, imaging and sweet highs. I now rate this speaker in the top 5 of my experience. It uses some of Seas drivers speaker manufacturers top line expensive Excell magnesium cone midrange units with decent tweeter and 8 inch paper cone woofer in solid cabinet and Australian made.
  24. I may have missed it but don’t think we know what the OP’s room is like (size, seated stereo position, acoustics) because while the speaker choice is important, the room maketh any speaker warm, cold or fuzzy no matter how one wishes it to be. You get warm speaker in a warm sounding room and have a runaway greenhouse effect, cold speaker in cold sounding room and then an ice age, warm + cold or reverse = potential bliss. Other issues like too small a room with a big speaker or the reverse can cause issues for speaker choices. The above issues will be plaguing you with every different speaker in different showrooms, and even with the same speaker in different rooms, so it won’t be apples vs apples. It would be good to understand this when auditioning.
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