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About Al.M

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  1. We need to know more about what you are not happy with the sound: what do you listen to mostly music or HT, where is most of the music from TT, streaming etc? what are you wanting to improve, is it bass, clarity, loudness etc? are you listening in a proper stereo equilateral triangle (google if not known) to appreciate improvements in sound quality? is the room acoustics bothering you, if not then may be no need to spend on treatment? Describe the room and what’s in it
  2. SAM2811 and I have previously been exchanged mails. Another poster Whim43 has provided the circuit diagram and I have attached the manual pics below. If your house voltage is higher it is best used with a 220v stepdown just to be safe and for the long term. It can be used without but personally I don’t leave it on for longer than needed such as an hour to warm up before listening and off afterwards. I wouldn’t leave mine on all day or longer than needed as tube life would reduce unnecessarily at both voltages (220 or 240+250v) and it risks the issues already mentioned above by others.
  3. You can also just cover the drivers with a magazine or similar without disconnecting them, put your ears up close and hear where it’s coming from. Such issues can be loose internal driver wire connections and dust/grit getting between the woofer voice coil magnet gap and rubbing etc. Also, try gently depressing the driver cone and feel for rubbing of the voice coil against the magnet gap and grit. If so pull driver out point magnet down, shake and slap it to dislodge grit and try installing it upside down incase the cone has sagged and voice coil is rubbing and allow gravity to realign it (wait some hours or days). Try checking the crossover parts for signs of wear, leakage and burn out, loose wire connections back to terminals.
  4. There are many similar posts if you search for amp suggestions like Your speaker setup may need to be rearranged so that the best ones are played in two channel mode at the front and you need to be sitting in the recommended stereo speaker triangle to best appreciate it (google equilateral speaker triangle or best speaker placement if you don’t know).
  5. Unless your ear is trained to know what 100Hz sounds like you wouldn’t be able to tell and at 15dB linear or Z measurement this might mean in subjective hearing terms about 10dB(A) weighted it is lower than the quietest of whispers and virtually inaudible. Google for audio tone test sound replays of different frequencies to hear what 100Hz and other single tone frequencies sound like, use headphones to properly to screen out background noises. A difference of 10dB(A) between two sounds is about twice the loudness subjectively to one’s ears. Between 15 and 35dB linear or Z measurement (about 10-30dBA equivalent) is likely to be about two or three times louder subjectively, hence why you can hear this. The other issue at such low levels is that you must allow your ears to adjust for about 30 mins to the lower sound levels if you are immediately coming from a noisier environment like about 80dB(A) car driving, loud TV room or conversation etc. Although by completely different physics, one’s ears have an auto loudness mechanism similar to eyes being blinded temporarily by bright light and then difficulty see immediately in darkness. Similarly, ears will have difficulty perceiving low sound levels below about 35dB(A) until they adjust from louder sound levels. An extreme example to relate is coming from a loud concert or night club at 97-105dB(A) and coming home your ears experience temporary hearing loss, fuzziness and ringing.
  6. If you are 1500m from a busy road there will be insignificant traffic noise. From about 450m traffic noise can start to influence the background by a few dB(A). To obtain accurate noise measurements it must be taken windows closed, without extraneous noise sources that cause errors, which obviously means no fridges, snoring, pool pumps, aircraft, no insects chirping etc. if done correctly a typical house will easily achieve about 19-25dB(A) quiet background evening and beyond 12 midnight, which is very quiet and about what the majority of Aust households experience. Many average noise meters and mics will struggle to accurately measure below 30dB(A) by maybe +/- 5-10dB error. Refer to your product manual specs.
  7. There are improved building laws, codes and standards for newly built structures in the last 10 years after several similar incidences. See here https://www.abcb.gov.au/-/media/Files/Resources/Education-Training/Handbook_Bushfire_Verification_Method.pdf Many older structures are not built nor required to the standard and cannot withstand it. Things are not restrospective.
  8. It’s mostly as Steffen’s post above explains. You should also read read up on Victorian State Government and associated environmental noise policy, standards and guidelines https://www.acoustics.asn.au/conference_proceedings/AASNZ2016/papers/p154.pdf The 10Hz and 40Hz ish levels are most likely distant traffic, aircraft and rail or your neighbours aircon. 40Hz is commonly present in homes and usually the background traffic noise in a city. Also, try eliminating internal house noises by turning off fridges, aircons, TVs, transformers, standby equipment and everything possible. Measure again away from surface reflections like more than 1m from walls and floor etc and different times of day, both windows closed and open, away from peak hour traffic. How close are you to a main road. Monitor the trend over the next 7-14 days. Use a wind sock over the mic incase there is air movement noise across it including you breathing over it. The A-weighted dB curve is how humans hear not flat, Z or C weighted curve if you want to more closely correlate what you hear subjectively as per the EPA guideline, although C weighted measurement is better for low freq noise.
  9. Very likely it’s scracked all over and lost it’s physical integrity with the edge suspension all cactus and even some fungus spores growing on it. What make model is the unit from the rear magnet label.
  10. Personally I think it’s more like 80/20 achievable at upper midfi, 90/10 at lower hifi level and then 95/5 is more elusive. I’ve heard half a dozen $50k to $300k systems that are very good while $10k to $20k rrp equivalent cost well chosen and matched used systems that in reality cost about about $3-6k used easily can do 90/10 and more if the user is good at it, some attributes even beating the mega systems depending on what one is chasing or focusing on. There have been several instances of the mega systems sounding very average.
  11. On the surface of it the latest series of B&W speaker designs seem to contradict what they have been promoting for scores of decades in their sound diffraction beating, edgeless curved woofer cabinet, soccer ball midrange unit and slender tweeter casing over a conventional square edged speaker cabinet. The latest series 3 now have woofers mounted in square edged protruding flanges seen below and would seem to be not great for sound edge diffraction control. It might be a case that in the lower woofer frequencies this does not matter. Although the B&W sound is not for me, they do have a nice 3D imaging affect over other speaker designs. Any thoughts out there.
  12. Yes I have two P2100 which are the same minus the VU meters and use them for DIY speakers with triamp crossover. They are reflect for these as the volume pots adjust levels nicely. Due to their age the power and other caps would likely have gone off spec so it would be good to hear the difference with fresh caps. Has anyone heard the difference, it may improve the sharpness in sound.
  13. Best vintage buy 200w 2ohm spec power amp around can be found for as low as $250 and built like tanks with massive toroid and coke can size power caps seen below
  14. You are prejudicing then on country of origin and not the sound. I would go for the Kefs. Even if you make a mistake that’s not the end of the world, can always onsell and get better ones.
  15. This has been interesting, I never heard a NS2000, have heard an NS1000X with the same woofer but smaller cabinet volume than the Ns2000 so would have expected it to have ample bass though still in a seal cabinet design, unless I am mistaken that the standard NS1000 lacks bass and the NS2000 would have more. Obviously, this depends on one’s bass requirements, room and setup. In contrast my modded NS1000 in larger 67L ported cabinet has ample bass in a 3.6x5m room. The new NS5000 ported design has even more bass and quality all round.
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