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About Al.M

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  1. I have been using the very first humble Cambridge Audio NP30 and it’s very good simple and fuss free to operate, the models above are even better and getting excellent and consistent reviews. The streaming app for the smart phone or tablet is genenrally user friendly. This is a better option than the Oppo, but depends on what other needs you have.
  2. The ultimate 2-3 way speaker.

    The conundrum is one could spend about $12k on a TG diy speaker, but there are used commercial speaker options that would have better resale .e.g. currently a B&W 801D in gumtree for $14k. I would guess one of TGs top kits would be better SQ but resale might be half or less. However, there are other less complicated TG kit speaker designs that cost much less around $3-5k and use stellar older venerable Scanspeak drivers that you could find in $10-30k commercial speakers.
  3. There lots of good reviews on the Oppo and it would do the job and save heaps. It also depends on your whole system, setup and how you listen, how good your ears are and whether the final SQ will be heard. Can also find a CD transport (CD player with no inside dac) and hook it to the streamers dac or bypass a normal cdp dac. Cheaper cdp than s2100 will do good job and there may only be small differences in sq. Match meaning, not only the dac differences but with rest of system and your own preferences. For example, nice warm sound vs detailed accurate.
  4. In terms of streamers any of the $600-1200 Cambridge Audio, Pioneer, Marantz etc units with their onboard DACs would sound quite good plus the CD player. The $2-3k budget could easily cover that. The other devices would likely benefit from a good DAC but there will be sound matching issues that would only be known when it is actually hooked up and heard.
  5. The ultimate 2-3 way speaker.

    How about some of Troels Graveson DIY designs using the latest Scanspeak Illuminator and other drivers. Can purchase the kit design documents and parts around $6k-12k+, which be will about what you get in $50-200k Speakers. No mucking about with compromised 2 ways and 3 ways with small/medium sized drivers, no making excuses about low or even medium cost and quality drivers. http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
  6. A picture of your room would help readers here from having to stretch our brains into over drive imagination and likely miss interpretation of your particular issues.
  7. Time to embrace ACTIVE SPEAKERS?!

    There are lots of forum discussions on the Kef Ls50W active (wireless active version) vs the Ls50 passive version that provide a more apples to apples look than what has been mentioned so far in this topic, except for the ATC examples. https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/kef-ls50-wireless-vs-passive https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/kef-ls50-wireless-wow At the time of those reviews a Kef Ls50W is $3700 rrp vs Ls50 passive at $2200 or recent specials $1500. Not mentioning the extra cost of wireless device in the passive Ls50 equation, a $1500 -$2200 amp rrp could not keep up with the Ls50w active. Opinions vary but some in those forums are suggesting that the Ls50w is so good that it competes with a $10k Ls50 passive plus suitable high end amp match, which is probably exaggerated. However, in the first link above another person is claiming that a $2000 35w tube amp matched with Ls50 passives is still better, but even that will end up costing as much as the Ls50w plus the need for wireless and streaming device. I think this a good sign of what will be more of in the future. On specs alone and listening tests the EQing in the Ls50w achieves lower bass extension down to 50Hz vs 70Hz in the passive version. However, the flexibility of adding particular sounding amps and taking the Ls50 sound above that of the Ls50w active, in the Ls50 passive version although at higher cost is still not to be overlooked if cost is less of an issue when deciding over the Ls50w active version. The difference may also just reflect the limitations of the Class D active amplification of the Ls50w and not the use of other potential amplification types in the active version. Any Perth Ls50W owners want to do a Ls50 passive shootout or loan with me?
  8. Time to embrace ACTIVE SPEAKERS?!

    Agree it is a little immaterial but the general view seems to be onboard amps and crossover according to wiki subjective terms https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powered_speakers
  9. Time to embrace ACTIVE SPEAKERS?!

    I can believe it was an improvement but not exactly apples to apples as the VAF is a completely different driver and cabinet design to the SGR. The comments so far of people going from ATC passive to actives are the most relevant as the drivers and cabinets are the same, although we still don’t know what amps were used with the passive speakers in their examples.
  10. Time to embrace ACTIVE SPEAKERS?!

    Active speakers have been made for several decades and the good ones don’t generally become obsolete as such, no less than say a good seperate system. But anything over time from both camps becomes less desirable due to age and appearance, except for a few venerable examples that can maintain or increase the price when new and years later e.g. Ls3/5a Speakers selling in 1980s for $800 and now $1500-3000+ and Yamaha NS1000 Speakers in 1980s at $1600-2000 and now the same, due to collectable status and still good sound despite advances in construction. I don’t think it is a question of one being better than the other as once you find a good active speaker, there would be separate system that would keep up and vice versa. To objectively test the question one would need to listen to a large number of active speakers vs an equal number of seperate systems on equal terms (price, same room and source) and not cherry pick and conclude on a few potentially biased setups. For me I would get bored with just one setup no matter how good, so need flexibility to mix and match different speakers with different types of amps plus have an active speaker in the mix. In one of the posts above two types of active speakers was mentioned but in reality what you could have is: 1. Active speaker - amp in same speaker box with crossover circuit sorted within the amp itself; 2. Active speaker - amp in same speaker box connected to a normal passive crossover (effectively a separate system - amp and speaker under one hood); and 3. Active speaker - active crossover circuit in speaker box and you connect separate tri or bi amps. My main concern with examples 1 & 2 is would the amp sections equal or exceed the potential of separate beautiful looking amps or would the direct active amp matching equal or exceed that. In addition, would the passive crossover circuit in a speaker system be inferior to a fully active speaker. Difficult to answer as there is such a wide variety of quality and other issues involved.
  11. VAF DC X63 Speakers

    Some speakers with multiple drivers also use 16 ohm drivers so when hooked up together they present around 8 ohm and the crossover circuit is involved as well.
  12. They are using really good expensive drivers such as the Scanspeak Ring Radiator tweeter, which I have in my DIY speakers - hands down one of the best tweeters I have heard along with ribbons. Then mated to a Scanspeak slit cone midbass units once again all good quality. In their other designs in your pics Raal ribbon tweeters, which are getting huge praise in commercial and DIY designs and of course quality Seas Excel range magnesium cone mid bass units. Sound would be amazing if crossovers and design is all sorted. $300-500 per unit driver costs involved, if that means anything.
  13. VAF DC X63 Speakers

    Speaker power rating are usually just a general guide and there’s nothing stopping you from using much more powerful amps. Even if you had a 400w amp you would generally never turn volume up to full volume to get past 200w. A 20w amp could blow the speaker up more than a higher power amp. One should generally never go above about 1-3pm on volume knob. The DC-X63 is rated at 94dB (at 6ohms) efficiency which is about twice that of many common speakers around 88-90dB so any amp can potentially sound about twice as loud in comparison so your 50w amp should be ok. It is more complicated than that in reality and there other posts debating that. What amp have you got? See also
  14. You can ride half dozen times on the 300 Kph magnetic levitation airport to city shuttle train 20km in 8mins.
  15. Hulgich appears to use the same tweeter as ML1, 2 & 3