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About stevo5

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  • Birthday 11/06/1966
  1. Hi guys this thread has tweaked my interest.Ive never heard a diy horn running [or any for that matter]before and looking at those links has started my mind imagining what may become of the loads of Rimu and mdf sitting under my house. Whats the main sonic differance/advantage to horns? Less drivers? Theres a lot more construction involed compaired to conventional speakers so Im picking there must be attraction to many. Owen,I recall seeing some hansome looking half completed ply horns you once posted,Im not sure if you ever posted a completed pic [sorry if you did and Ive missed them] but they looked as if they took a lot of time and effort. Im currently involed in building power amps so wont be diving in any time soon,but Ive think I may be getting the early signs of 'Horn Fever'
  2. bugden;73787 wrote: Thanks mate. I just still don't understand how you can spend hundreds/thousands of dollars on wiring from amplifier to speakers but that the internal wiring can be such a small guage and so cheap and potentially nasty. I know that people say that such short lengths don't really matter but my speakers are 1 metre high and many other high end speakers are a lot taller so does't that blow that thoery to peices? And what if you have short lengths going from your amplifier to speakers??? Still use cheap wiring??? It's all to confusing for a newb like myself :-/ I think most massed produced speakers have shite internal wiring for money saving on say the lower to midrange models. Ive always just used the same as Im useing 'outside'
  3. looking at the distance between drivers I would assume that you would have to sit a fair way back from them to find the sweet spot where the image and balance falls into place.They look wonderful,well done.
  4. Pancakes;72280 wrote: . I was on a bit of a mission to see what I could build for under $1200 all up and I'm over reworking stuff to a budget so am nutting out the details for my next system now. Looking at multiple digital outs with filters to D/A converters, power amps then speakers. All digital XO's should be awesome, I like working out passives but active is the way to go for me now i think. If your going to build a power amp try this site www.poweramplifiers.com.au. I havnt bought one of these modules yet but they look pretty good if you dont want to build the module from scratch.Im building a power amp but havnt got past the psu yet so Im not quite there yet but they seem to have all the bases covered for sizes and power requirments.
  5. That sub sure does look like its got a huge internal volume.120lts at least? Looks good,interesting finnish on the boxes.I quite like the look of the white as a change to the mulitude of black boxes. Whats the driver?
  6. spacies;72063 wrote: Budgen, 1st up you need to address the crossover. That will make a hell of a difference. Once you get that sorted then look at stuffing the cabinet with damping and experiment with reducing the internal volume if you need to. I would recommend to really pay attention to how they sound right now and look forward to a big surprise when you start tweaking them. I concur with that,sort that xover first as I think it could be the main problem.I have played around with those vifa drivers [6-7'] and found them quite forgiving of cabinate size.They reponded well in a large box and almost lost nothing when I mounted them years later in a box half the size. I used the same xover network and they just sounded slightly thin comparied to their sound in the large box,but were not talking night and day here. I had them in a 60 litre box wired in parallel.I had the midrage crossing over at around 3000hz [i think]cant quite recall. Good kuck Ps I think I have the speaker desingn cookbook somewhere,got it from madisound for 11usd +postage.If you want to pay $80 jaycar have them.What a rip those guys are!!
  7. dts6.1;70792 wrote: Here's the sonus faber link http://www.hifi-notes.com/sonusfaberamatifabrikage-nl.htm Ah yes thats the one,those speakers IMO are some of the most beautiful things ever created by the hands of men.
  8. there was a link posted some years ago in this forum to the sonus faber factory tour.It showed their method of complely encasing the xovers in a resin "tomb" within the speaker ,so if a classy outfit like them think there may vibrations etc acting on the compoents then there could be something in it.Im with Neil on this one tho ,cant be arsed with the extra box.
  9. Nice looking room,I bet you cant wait to get it up and runnig.......what was your address?
  10. I dont think there is a "good' way of bi-amping 2 receivers as they have pre-outs for each channel but that then bypasses the power amp section and outputs only the channel signal.You could run them together from the same source I guess but Im sure that would cause other problems with the processers runing at slightly different rates etc. I had two receivers sitting in my rack once but never tried it,wish I had now just to say I tried it, but I dont think there is much if anything to be gained.
  11. be warned madisound is incriebly addictive to DIYs.I just "went for a wee look"one day and ended up very poor.
  12. Hi bugden, For internal wiring I use audioquest spk wire $2.50 per mtr or there abouts.Most people would die a thousand deaths if they saw the wire inside their speakers ,its mostly piss poor spaghetti. The drivers are all bought from madisound.com [morel] they are great to deal with the only down side is shipping cost and the NZ dollar.Ive paid about $120 US to get 6 drivers here.Tweeters arnt quite so bad its about 20 US for a couple in a small box.I get my screws from them as well as I cant find anyone in NZ who sells black hex socket head self tappers.
  13. bugden;68537 wrote: They are an inspiration mate! I am building some Rimu speakers now and if they turn out even half as good as those I will be stoked!!! Any tips you could throw my way? Nice work. How long did they take you to build? Thanks,they took about 15 months but I started them and then got side tracked on other stuff so they sat under the house half built for about 6 months and I would just do little bits too them whenever I got inspired. Tips? well if you are laminating solid rimu to form a cabinet my tip would be one bit of timber at time and use HEAPS of glue and as many clamps as you can fit.I never had enough clamps.
  14. Owen Y;68304 wrote: Guys, I've used various oils, but am interested in the 'hardening' characteristics of this Danish oil...is it durable, ie. tabletops or floorboards, or more a furniture grade finishing? Thks. A freind of mine who has worked in the marine industry building boat interiors put me on to danish oil.However he did have a small part in building "team NZs' boat that nearly sank in 2003 so maybe he dosn't know it all. Jokes aside tho I think this oil would be great for table tops etc. I was going to do my dinning table with it but other projects used up the last of it. It has a lovely silky finnish and buffs up nicely too.Durable for floors? I cant say for sure but the rags and brushes I used to apply the oil with went rock hard when I went to reuse them the next day so it would some guts to it.My rimu floorstanders certainly have held their shine and "hardness".
  15. danish oil is the best Ive found,it really brings out the best of the timber and 'sets hard' when its soaked into the wood layers.Other non timber oils just dont set off. I found it took many coats of oil to penetrate the timber sanding the first coats in with 800 grit wet paper.
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