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Kamikazi

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About Kamikazi

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  • Birthday 23/11/1955
  1. You might even get the monos checked for faults.....
  2. You might even get the monos checked for faults.....
  3. Funny how this thread resembles the discussion we all were part of when CD was introduced. Now who can tell me what's IN the current crop of DAC's? DOES IT MATTER ??
  4. Would like to hear how it goes Andrew...
  5. I would recommend waiting until Dolby Atmos has become understood, and the speaker recommendations have become well known. Atmos is supposedly able to cope with most setups, but there may well be one dominant setup that is "Native" for it to work at its best. Even without this , room size is a big determinant for 5/6/7 channel choice. The other additional channels are not at the rear, I would point out, they are for width, height and ceiling panning information. I only run 5.1 as my current room is pretty small as far as cinema goes..
  6. You might turn off the WiFi component of the PS3, I had one here for a while, and it's trying to search for networks, and loss of HDMI synch occurs during this time period..
  7. HFN RR reviewed these, comment was they were a good pair of drivers wanting a good box..
  8. You could get a speaker rebuilder to clean them, speakerbits in Melbourne, or Parts Express in Ohio, USA. That way expertise is the cheap insurance. Make sure the polarity is correct, some of these NS1000m, NS30x NS1000mm used parallel crossovers for the mid/tweeter x-over, and the phase reversal was done at the driver, usually the tweeter end, making the wiring look inaccurate. Have just finished NS30x repairs after doing in the bass driver. Yuk. That's what happens when Krell Showcase is not wired correctly.MY FAULT !
  9. Hi Nick, Don't forget all the other options, particularly at VAF. The i33 might not fill your need depending upon room size, and positioning in the room. Room matching is harder than people think. DCX could offer more, or 91's with a subwoofer. Thought i33 were just a bit pricey when hearing the first release of these. Second hand might be good too, this way you can see more reviews too. The material your walls are made from will matter a lot...
  10. In my case, making my speakers go active has been the biggest DIY project. Not only hardest, but biggest sound effect. As far as hardware changes, going from Bel Canto to Krell PA has vaulted the system well beyond what I ever expected.
  11. Best option I would consider is a Behringer X-over. There are several varieties you can research which one to use on the Behringer website, Aus pricing is pretty good too. I currently use the DCX2496 which is a full electronic (DSP) unit which has full flexibility for timing, crossover slopes etc. Other units are fully analogue input to output. Using Y cables runs counter to extracting the best from the system as it will lack flexibility, or get a sub that has stereo line level pass through built in. Another alternative is to find a Paradigm X-30 crossover that was used with the Servo-15 sub as it will work well with this setup, as it goes in the pre-power path. Some of these failed when the Zener regulators and bypass resistors overheated, so make sure it works. If you get stuck, I will be up there in December..
  12. I have done several of these faults before, and my money so far including the comments is on the amp. The reason behind this is that some amplifiers are marginal when exposed to lower impedance loads, in particular with cable capacitance and a varying phase angle between current and voltage (dynamic speaker impedance), increasing the amp load beyond design limits. The amp probably says 6 ohm impedance limit, with cable capacitance this will drop to less than 2 ohms if the tweeter x-over does not have load matching, which wastes power but saves the amp. I see other suggestions for adding resistance to the speaker leads, this MUST be done at the amp end to include the cable or the test is worthless. Should adding resistance prove successful, the next step is to split the cable for the first 1-2 Meters, this will raise the inductance, and makes most amplifiers stable. Best of luck.
  13. I use exclusively analogue for all audio, and most likely will unless I buy a Classe processor or Krell..the logic is simple for HDMI has uncontrolled jitter when used for LPCM audio, this does not apply to Compressed or packed formats, and it is up to the processor to control the jitter. The reason lossy or packed formats do not suffer this as the clock is wholly created in the Proc, not run over HDMI then attempted to run correctly by the proc. The Classe unit has been tested at normal CD jitter (120pS) or less over HDMI, and Krell as usual do it different to everybody else. The other end of the scale, Yamaha do not consider it an issue, Sony has only produced limited clock control for HDMI, Denonlink only applies if you get all devices from them, just like Sony, as the systems are proprietary with electronics on player & proc to control jitter. Pioneer has never seemed to worry. The worst I have seen is 3800pS for an upmarket Yamaha, guaranteed fuzzy audio, once you have heard low jitter you never forget the clarity! Other things that come to mind are that to invoke the speaker distance settings, DSD audio will most likely be converted to LPCM before the processor can manage it, as DSD does not lend itself to surround processing. This would matter only if the player you have has DSD chips for direct conversion, have found the processors usually do not have them, or only work in "Direct" mode with no manipulation for speaker distances. The high quality Anthem D2V processor was tested at 1000pS, last time I saw a test of it about 2-3 years ago. Not fantastic, but better than most. Bruce M
  14. Have tried LOTS of amps with my I93's from Nakamichi, Rotel, Bel Canto , HK Signature (5@100w) as well as HK 8500 receiver, Nad, Yamaha, in active 93's as well as passive form. Indisputably like amps with plenty of output current, and smooth treble. I didn't note if yours were MK1 or 2, have used both, but 2's only in passive using a Denon 4311 rx. MK needs a smooth treble more, but this cannot be eq'd out. Am currently going to Krell FPB 700cx in the search for better bass. All my pairs are now fully active using Behringer DCX2496, Bel Canto Ref1000 for bass , HK Signature powers the mids and tweeters in the front. Would not recommend valves unless you have deep pockets, class D is ok from Bel C but Rotel 1091 using the same module from B&O is not as clear in the treble. Do not worry about using too much power, currently have 1500RMS across all 3 amps without any sort of failure. Min 300W will be my recommendation, you could try an Anthem as they will be (strong) enough to drive the sub 3 ohm impedance. Message me if you want the saga...
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