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Zaphod Beeblebrox

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  1. Damping Factor

    Sure. I'll even bring my speakers. [EDIT] Oh and I'll bring a low output impedance amplifier for comparison too.
  2. Furutech’s NCF Booster

    Yep. Yep. AND an excellent grounding in electronics. Then you should leave it to the professionals. As a professional, the claims made about the product are completely bogus. There is no scientific logic to back it up. Just a bunch of fancy words strung together, which are designed to fool the scientifically illiterate. Well, yes they have a brand. Value has yet to be demonstrated. Because manufacturers have been doing just that for thousands of years. As P T Barnum would say (but never did): "There's one born every minute." NO. It's much easier to believe every piece of advertising copy, rather than trying to learn a little physics. I choose the hard way - learning physics. Do you know how a wireless works? I do.
  3. Is this speaker cable any good ?

    It's being used with an ME550, so high capacitance will not be a problem. I still suggest that RG213/U is a better choice. Still, it should work OK. [EDIT] If it has been wired correctly, it should not roll off the HF. That it seems to, suggests it has been improperly wired.
  4. All the DAB+ receivers I've seen employ a module that contains all the important stuff. If the manufacturer can supply the part, it should be an easy fix.
  5. Furutech’s NCF Booster

    Far infra-red IS heat (thermal) energy. However, colour me interested. Tell us precisely how it generates negative ions and how it converts thermal energy into far infra-red (thermal energy).
  6. Multimeters?

    Well, I have an ancient Fluke 85. It is my go-to meter for all occasions. I have to clean the switch every now and again. Mind you: It has had a lot of use. My bench meter is a Multitech (Jaycar) and it gets a huge amount of use. Hasn't missed a beat. IMO, any multimeter costing around a $100.00 will work just fine for a very, very long time.
  7. Furutech’s NCF Booster

    I had to look it up. Atto is 10^-18. So, yeah, 9 orders of magnitude below Nano.
  8. Furutech’s NCF Booster

    Just to be pedantic. Nano2 is just Nano squared. Not Nano^10. That would be an order of magnitude. Still, this is a bit like discussing which deck chair has the best view on the Titanic.
  9. Multimeters?

    Nice catch. I think I may need to add one to the collection. I've been remiss lately and haven't been watching Dave's Vlog. I second the suggestion. Looks like a great meter. The thermocouple addition is nice.
  10. Multimeters?

    It almost doesn't matter. I still have (and use) the first digital multimeter I ever purchased. My best recollection is that the meter is probably more than 35 years old. It works fine and is still as accurate as any sane person would ever need. It was a cheapie back then. Less than $100.00, when a good meter (Fluke) was about a Grand. Since then, I've acquired a lot of meters. I have a couple of Flukes. Both are more than 20 years old and they still work just fine. They're still within their stated accuracy too. But so are all my others. I reckon I have around 10 ~ 12 digital multimeters and another 7 ~ 8 analogue meters. All the digital ones work fine, except for one. It was connected to a 3kV laser power supply (accidentally). Since it was rated for a maximum of 1kV, the input circuitry did not survive. Anyway, yes, you could buy a Fluke and it will probably last longer than you will live. Or you could spend $100.00 and buy a quite decent meter from almost anywhere and expect a 30 ~ 40 year life from the product. Even Jaycar meters are fine. I have one that does sound, light intensity, relative humidity, transistor gain plus all the usual stuff. It was less than 100 Bucks and is very handy. Look for an auto-ranging unit. Perhaps a logging meter might be handy. This one could be a good choice: http://www.altronics.com.au/p/q1162-automotive-auto-ranging-digital-multimeter/ Or this (true RMS and capacitance): http://www.altronics.com.au/p/q1068-auto-ranging-true-rms-digital-multimeter/ And, if you're a bit careless, this one is waterproof: http://www.altronics.com.au/p/q1069-ip67-rated-waterproof-digital-multimeter/ I should add, at this point, that I have one of the most expensive analogue multimeters ever made: https://uk.megger.com/analogue-multimeter-avometer-model-8-mk7 http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/31140.pdf It's last retail price was around $2,500.00. Any $100.00 digital meter will be more useful and more accurate. Won't look as cool though. That said, I never use the AVO. It's purely decorative.
  11. Depends on the age of the product and where it is sourced. For older products from Japan and the US, I would say the figure is more like 20%. Again, depends on the product. For low power consumption items (preamps, sources and low power integrated amps) there will be no difference in sound quality. For high power items, there may be a downgrade. Yep. Excepting some of the Krell, Levinson and others I mentioned earlier. These are far more difficult. See above.
  12. Different issue entirely. Digital TV standards are completely different to the old, analogue ones. They are more or less universal. What you are thinking of is that some modern Krells, Mark Levinsons and other expensive products employ a microprocessor which is programmed to allow operation of the product in one market only. For instance: A preamp sold in (say) the US, where 117VAC, 60Hz is the standard, will not operate in Australia, even if a step-down transformer is employed, because the CPU senses not only the mains Voltage, but also the mains frequency (50Hz in Australia).
  13. Yep, you can be lucky. The US/Canadian model of the CA1000 cannot be operated on 230/240VAC.
  14. There are several issues to be concerned about. Most linear power supply products from Japan employ a 100VAC, 60Hz transformer and from the US, the power supply is 117VAC, 60Hz. For Japanese products, you should use a 100VAC step-down transformer. You should not use a 117VAC one. In Australia, we use 50Hz, so, under some circumstances you may experience some small problems (noisy or hot power transformers), regardless of the step-down transformer used. Provided you stick to the correct Voltage (100VAC for Japan and 117VAC for the US), you should be OK. Oh, and you MUST ensure that the VA rating of the step-down transformer is greater than the VA rating of the device. It is possible, but for older products, Voltage adjustments are not usually possible from Japan and the US. Do your homework and don't be afraid to ask more questions.
  15. Audio Music 833M mono blocks

    You make an excellent point. I didn't notice that they are different amps. Of course, they may have different response graphs.