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About xlr8or

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  1. The EAR 864B or any of the EAR 868 range fit your biamping requirements nicely; however, the 2 sets of balanced connections on the rear for all preamp units are both floating.
  2. The best way to drive a DHT 300B SET power amp is with an equivalent 300B line stage driver. Once 9-pin minis and octals are involved as drivers things start to sound different.
  3. You can contact me offline if you want any further info including the use of the ST shape ECC32 for a 6SN7 position.
  4. I wouldn't be selling these. The fact that you have these as confirmed by vertical etched codes as opposed to the later horizontal codes makes me think that perhaps it would be best to find yourself a lovely DHT SET amp that has the 6SL7 front end to use these. I'll source the post that confirms the rarity of these valves from a valve fanantic friend of mine in the UK who posts on worldwide forums under the auspices of 'adrianc'. https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=92210.460 https://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=tubes&m=263387&p=2
  5. If they both say MM under the 1347 and have an inverted cup getter within the valve's glass envelope down near the base where the internal bulb houses the wires then you have the first ever revision made in 1949. The codings started with MM, MN, MO and MS before they moved into 1950 production. They must sound totally awesome as they are the most sought after version of the ECC35 in the world.
  6. Fantastic valves, which appear to be the short black base version 1 variety from 1953. If you can share the 1347 letter-number or 1347 number-letter-number codes on both valves I can confirm the date of manufacture.
  7. $200-$300 each but you need to wait as they do come up now and then. All the gold pin versions were made in Holland (Eindhoven and then Heerlen) so don’t worry about the labels from the other factories. Feel free to message me if you have any questions regarding any that are advertised on eBay. πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
  8. Just confirming if all 4 KT88’s have PK codes they are ultra rare version 2 top getter lollipops made in October 1958 in the famous Hammersmith factory coded with 4 before the Brits changed it to Z. I think your friend needs to have his temperature checked for the asking price on the quad as that’s what they go for each. πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
  9. Please try 2 of the E80CC pinched waist valves below .... @dwbasementcan confirm how good they sound. This valve has the most refined top end - no 12AU7 comes close. If you are wanting to stick with a 12AU7 go for an early 1950's USA Hytron 5814 with white print. These will give significant warmth and ambience to the sound. I can post a photo if required. Leave the GZ32/5V4G as is and keep rolling those signal valves. I can loan you a pair of both for a listening session if you are close to the inner west part of Sydney.
  10. Those 6550’s are Tung Sol solid black plate 1950’s and cost a bomb - to be more specific they are version 2 of the black plates. There are 3 versions of the black plates that came out in the mid to late 1950’s. The first version had a top D getter only, the second version had a top D getter and double D getters on one side (the ones shown) and the third version had a top O getter and two O getters with one on each side. @WillmaxTry looking up how hard the D115 runs the 6550’s before determining whether to get NOS/UOS or new production valves of the 6550 or KT88/KT120/KT150 types. There is plenty of info out there and a good starting place is the link below, which will also confirm the Mk version you have. https://www.arcdb.ws/
  11. Love the old school ARC D115 power amp. Looks like the control panel for the lunar module landing. The only thing that is missing is an octet set of these ... πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
  12. Thanks Dennis. The A2900 are being used in a specific driver role here for the push-pull 6550 configuration in the TVA-1 with 300+ volt plate voltages experienced across these valves. Hence why a beefed up 9-pin mini is needed here. It sounds the best it's ever been for decades! Who would have thought the A2900 is the only solution for this amp without a circuit design modification.
  13. Foreground: Mullard ECC83 1600 K4 1954 Blackburn version 1 revision 3 and GEC A2900 CV6091 TG and TM 1963 triple mica welded black plate square getter valves (thanks @Gryffles). Background: RCA relabelled Tung Sol 6550 6643 1966 coded 3 hole perforated grey plate power valves and my pyjama striped shorts 🀣.
  14. Before I share my comments below just putting my disclaimer out there that I am biased to valves since 2008 and until death do us part. I think one important aspect that is often overlooked when using valve amps is the warm up time required for those toob heaters emitting their little buddies to perform at their best. The golden period often happens after 1 h 20 min and when you're locked in that zone you are floating in there with the music. I have never had that experience with SS amps even when left on for days before listening. Also, you need a few hundred hours for new toobs to come out of the closet and sound their best. After that you're in la la land. Now about electronica music and valves. To my ears the bottom end sounds better than SS. Why? There are friggen layers of bass coming out that are separated and envelope you. Throw that friggen theory of SS amps being better in this area out the window - whether it's a 2A3 3 watter right through to a push pull KT88 100 watter the bass is there, it goes down, it's layered and yes when warmed up envelopes you. Some may think this is 2nd order harmonics and coloration coming into play but that is total BS. Try listening to SS for a few hours playing Oxygene and you will eventually turn the amp/s off due to fatigue and that ringing sensatation in your ears. That doesn't happen with warmed up valves. Throw some PNAU and Bob Sinclair stuff in the mix and compare and contrast to SS and you will see what you are missing out on with the boogie and the wow factor.
  15. OK - a few quick comments about valve rolling here. If you reduce the filament voltage then you have more tolerance on the filament current draw. This means you can run higher current draw without overheating the power tranny. The real question you should be asking here is what are the ideal valve operating points for the circuit design to determine the linear operating range of the valves to use. Forget tube adapters converting some 9-pin mini valve to another octal-pin valve - it doesn't work. Go for a 5V rectifier and get yourself an original Western Electric 274B if you can afford it. Mega bucks here. Alternatively, a GEC U52 from the Hammersmith factory in the UK would work for about $200 - can be found on ePay local from time to time For the signal tube go for an early 1950's Eindhoven Philips pinched waist open '4' coded D getter E80CC valve. Again mega bucks but worth it. I made a critical mistake of sharing with the world how good this valve was on audioasylum many years ago, which inflated the price. I don't make posts there anymore unless I get requests to identify valves, tubes, toobs rohren, lampres, coppia etc. I have accumulated close to 20,000 valves now since 2008 and are still growing strong! Happy to share further insights on other valve rolling experiences and sound signatures as required. I agree the early Mullards from the Blackburn and Mitcham factories are also great. The first generation 7L0 R-number-letter coded British Made very late 1950's and very early 1960's with tall getter supports and gold pins are great for E88CCs. My favourite though are for the late 1955 and very early 1956 7L0 pink 66-letter coded Eindhoven E88CC toobs. CCa toobs are a gimmick and are just a cosmetic print.
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