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aechmea last won the day on January 22 2014

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About aechmea

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    Aechmea recurvata

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    Hunter Valley
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  1. Item: A box of 78rpm records from the 30s?, 40s?, 50s? Location: Newcastle/Hunter Valley Price: Free Item Condition: Various, of course. Probably what you might expect from 70+ year old records. Reason for selling: Give away to interested local collector. Payment Method: Pickup Only Extra Info: Records from my parents and probably their parents deceased estate discovered when clearing out the house. Packed away in the box in 1971 judging from the newspaper wrapping. It appears as though each record has been wrapped individually. There is a wine box full, so I guess about 100 or so. I unpacked the first 10 to give an idea. Seems to be popular music of the time. The song is ended ... / Dawning Taylor Parlophone Ramone / Girl of my dreams Austin HMV A little street... / Tenderly Nat King Cole Capitol Who takes care of the caretakers ... / If you knew suzie Billy Jones Brunswick O, Sydney I love you / Waiting for the ship Kelleway Parlophone Go to sleep, go to sleep / But me; I love you Mary Martin Colombia Medley of Scottish airs / Down south medley Tom Katz Colombia Lady of Spain / My baby's commin home Les Paul Capitol Lassus trombone / Minka Spike Jones HMV Rain / We'll have a new home Reynard HMV Photos:
  2. My "deluxe" CD is awful too. So is "Lungs" Deluxe CD. Avoid. In fact all of Florence appears to be heavily compressed. http://dr.loudness-war.info/album/list/album?artist=florence+%2B+the+machine
  3. I have them too. They are Vicoustic DC2 They come in a 6-pack and are about RRP $700 They are white grey or black. They seem to be denser than normal polystyrene. [Tobes types faster than me.]
  4. Yes that's right @Stump. Depends upon how one likes a particular presentation. I am sure some would prefer my system "without". I had uncorrected and un-subed electrostatics for 25 years and that sound was entirely normal for me at the time; quite different to what I have now. Panel speakers are light on for bass at the best of times and for my particular room geometry the natural response with main speakers alone has a large suck-out of just about everything below 50Hz. Hence, without the subs and without the integration and without an EQ tweak here and there, it was so so different when the DEQX wasn't doing its thing. Also in my case the (some would say too much) room treatment is probably my dominant factor in liveliness. Can't say if the DEQX contributes or not. I get a very direct and precise sound rather than, say, expansive. I attribute the precision to phase correction via DEQX and reduced room reflections and reverb time. There is no question that a DEQX will normalise/flatten anomalies thus reducing/eliminating peaks and troughs and phase issues which may otherwise seem to be "life". Don't know. A bit like the "these speakers have awesome bass" comments that one often hears. That may well be the case, but I often think it is also possible that there is a huge (room?) peak at say 70Hz. Once the peak is eliminated the speakers might no longer seem awesome, rather more vanilla and not nearly as exciting as they used to be. Just a thought bubble. There are a lot of settings that need to be considered when creating and implementing the DEQX filters. It is important to get them right otherwise you get what you get. Even after 10+ years I still think I may be able to do better. Best to get as much help as you can when starting out. Anecdote: On a very early build with previous speakers, 350Hz was accidentally entered (instead of 300Hz) so one speaker was rolling off 50Hz too soon leaving a gap between 350 and 300 on one side. It wasn't as obvious as one might think and easy enough to fix but goes to show how easy it is to bugger it up if one twiddles the wrong software "knob" or enters the wrong data or one doesn't appreciate the ramifications of doing something or other. A powerful tool needs careful handling.
  5. What is it like without a DEQX. Yesterday my Thor PS10 decided to go phttt. I used it for the front end low powered devices (not power amp or subs). It triggered its own circuit breaker, the circuit breaker in the fuse box and (as it turns out) took out the fuse in my DEQX. The HDP4 has a 1 amp fuse tucked in behind a secret door between the IEC socket and the voltage selector. Electrically and mechanically challenged though I am, I managed to change the fuse. Repair cost 40cents. The Thor has been pensioned off to the broken pile in the garage. I don't need it anyway as the original reason of wildly fluctuating voltage was fixed with several new large grey transformers? in the street. I didn't know about the fuse at the time so I rewired the system to by-pass the DEQX, so it became CD ==> Dac/pre ==> power amps. No speaker calibration, no room correction, no subs, no EQ to taste. Well, how odd did that sound without the DEQX in place. It sounded like a completely different system in a completely different room. And the missing subs were obvious. That's interesting because in normal times you can't tell if the subs are actually on. The mids and highs sounded different too but not as obvious as the lows. I don't think that you could ever be without a DEQX once you've had one. It would take considerable re-training of the brain.
  6. Unless you are running your cables over extended lengths through an electrically noisy environment, then balanced will not be of any value. In a normal home hifi system it matters not. I have a mixture of XLR and RCA cables simply because I have run out of sockets of one sort or the other. I could run all balanced if I wanted to but no need and it makes no difference in my system. Do not change amp or speakers just because of balanced availability.
  7. Welcome James Craig. Craig James or James Craig; sounds as though you are either a celebrity economist or a tall ship. Either way, welcome. There is a lot of good stuff here and helpful people. Enjoy the site. Don't forget to tell us more about your system and participate often.
  8. It seems that many people have their subs near the main speakers. I think that is a big mistake. In my experience, in my room, this was the worst position that I tried; a monumental suck-out of everything below 50Hz. I eventually solved my problem by placing one sub behind the chair. Trial and error with a dollop of intuition seems to be what is needed. I like 2 subs since that allows much more flexibility for placement. I did find a good position for a single sub but that was in a weird place out in the open spaces of the room, but, that was inconvenient for room use. EQ is OK I suppose but it can only fix a small number of problems since more energy poured into a phase cancellation produces precisely nothing. IME its all about positioning. And you really have to measure. Edit: Don't trade big for two small. Just get another big!!
  9. (Sir Francis) The Drake and Smith are spot on. I reckon that positioning subs is 90% of the deep bass problem/solution. Its the old real estate tenet "Position, position, position". My 2 subs would appear to be randomly placed to the casual observer, but they are where they are to give a pretty even response combined with the mains. One position was better, but had a sub right in the walkway so a compromise was required. Still good though. It took a while to get there, since none of the recommended/normal/common positions proved to be any good. Be outrageous if need be because there are some great results to be had.
  10. Hi G I am curious as to what the cable is between the mid/ribbon panel and the bass panel. Is it just a normal speaker cable? or is it a speaker cable with special connectors? or is it some proprietary construction? and ... What way does it "flow", power amp to mid/ribbon to bass panel or power amp to bass panel to mid/ribbon? and ... Does anyone know what the XO frequency is between mid range and bass. [Trying to work out whether these could be active bi-amped fairly easily. I already have a DEQX , spare Magtech and spare (quality) speaker cable. So would be no cost to me if it were possible.] Thanks
  11. I have 20.7s, 2 subs and a DEQX and have had for many years now. The DEQX has function other than plain old EQ. One important feature is "speaker correction" which is a form of DSP/EQ to correct for timing and amplitude anomalies in the speakers (and subs) themselves. This is completely independent of the room and is/can be applied as a filter irrespective of the room that the speakers are in. It does not have to be re-done. If one can find and use a better anechoic space for "speaker" measurement then you might consider doing it again. The cross-over and filter slopes etc. function for active multi-amp systems is not applicable for 20.7 owners. 20.7s have some sort of fancy/weird inbuilt passive XO that has had its access denied (except with an axe, if one is game). With the DEQX you can choose to hi-pass/low-pass to subs wherever you like and choose whatever filters and slopes that take your fancy. Delaying mains or subs, adjusting amplitudes etc etc; there is a multitude of tinkerings available and can keep one occupied for years. Then we have the room and the way that the speakers are positioned and react with the room. DEQX (or any other device) cannot influence cancellations that give the bass freq response its mountain range look. Troughs are like black holes; pouring more EQ energy into a trough makes no difference at all. Bass EQ via a DEQX is not automatic; one needs to make their own decisions, apply EQ and see what the result is. Repeat as required. Almost all of my bass response manipulation was done by positioning. This is fundamentally important. One can achieve excellent response by carefully placing the subs, then cut the tops off a peak or 2. It all takes time, some knowledge of acoustics and a dollop of intuition/luck. Rather than randomly try various positionings, I made an Excel spreadsheet that calculated all the path differences from direct sound path length versus first reflection path length from all the room boundaries then converted those distances into wavelengths/frequencies and whether they were in/out of phase. Different to all of those "modal" calculators that assume that there is only 1 reflection, that it happens to create a standing wave and that one is sitting in its peak or trough. I did find that http://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/loudspeakers.html was quite insightful even if only a very very approximate representation. At least it suggested to me that I might be better off with one sub at the back of the room. I tried it; it measured well enough for me, so I left it at that and added a bit of EQ to tidy up. Since then I have added a warehouse full of semi-rigid and rigid fibreglass to kill reflections coming from the back wall (behind the chair) and put some diffusion panels on the front wall to spread the back-wave of the Maggies somewhat. [Don't forget that Maggies need some sort of triangular buttress support. Those tiny T-feet really are hopeless.] Sorry, got a bit off the track there, but hope it helps someone. Finally, back at the DEQX. It is not as automatic as a lot of people think. Sure the software generates the filters but only after a knowledgeable person traverses the step-by-step procedure, feeding it knowledge-based measurements, numbers and decisions. There is no "push this button and everything will be alright". Not even close.
  12. I suspect that all of these "measurements" from almost everyone are either dodgy or are the best possible figure under the most conducive of conditions. Most nominal 4-ohm speaker manufacturers use 2.83volts because that secretly equates to 2 watts not 1, thus giving an inflated (better) sensitivity number. The corresponding 1 watt @ 1 metre is 3 dB less. Then, of course, is how and where they have been measured. My 4-ohm mains are advertised as 86 for 2.83v, but that is really 83 for 1 watt. Compare that with a German magazine that measured them at 77dB. What's going on there; sumpin' just ain't right. I can't believe either number. In the OP, the 92dB speaker is much more sensitive ... 92 - 81 = 11dB = approx 10 times more sensitive (dB is a logarithmic ratio; dB = 10 log(p1/p0)).
  13. My biggest bass problem was that there was a SBIR cancellation between the first back wall reflection and the direct wave. Solved with positioning the subs; particularly with one on the back wall. One wouldn't know that there were subs in operation.
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