surprisetech

Or track down the source of the sub-bass signal that is causing the cone movement! Does it look like it's a constant frequency, or is it random movements?

Tricky with the lighting, but this is the schematic.

Interesting thread. I do like a 'live' sound. Have always preferred 12" drivers in a nice big box for my main stereo speakers to maintain a good even clean response into the lower bass regions. I also have a PA system for band and party duties. The main speakers are DIY with Etone 1225 Woofers and CTS (Motorola) rectangular horns in 90L ported enclosures. I designed the crossover for a smooth transition from the woofer to the horn, but the limitation of the box size and the port design I used for extending the bass a little, resulted in a small hump in the region we are discussing. When using them for the band (folk/country/bluegrass styles) I EQ a little to even it out, but I must admit that when using them for a party, (or a fun listening session during setup or the day after) I do prefer to leave it flat and enjoy that extra bit of 'kick'.

Yep. What he said. Can't get over the quality and feature set in the Pioneer unit I just got from AutoBarn for the wife's Forester for under $200. Sensitive radio, CD Player, Bluetooth, USB that supports FLAC as well as the regular formats, 3.5mm input socket, etc. etc.

The Blue Nile? Some of the early electronic bands that I got excited about at the time now sound a bit dull to me, but these guys have stood the test of time.

Very close relative CS-T8 on pages 20-21 in the 1975-1976 catalogue here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/pioneer/hifi-stereo-components.shtml Drivers all look identical. Tweeter is titanium dome. On the CS-T8 the Tweeter and Mid are centred and L pads are at the top of the baffle. You'll need a Hifi engine account, but don't we all have one of those! One could have happily lived with an all-Pioneer system in the mid 70s.

I'd keep the claim going on the basis that while you may have messed with the solder joint causing today's problem, quite a few of the other solder joints on that board are really not up to scratch either and could easily become dry joints before too long. All of the solder joints that are domed and with no component lead visible are not what I would consider acceptable and are potential future dry-joints. I hope the seller knows what constitutes a good solder joint. https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems

The Beresford TC-7220 does exactly that and is decent quality. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Beresford-TC-7220-MK-III-Dual-Amplifier-Speaker-Selector-Switch-Audio-Router/183541928041?hash=item2abbf39069:g:q~YAAOSwqOFb8UE4:rk:1:pf:0

My daughter had an outdoor wedding early last year, so I bought a bluetooth transmitter and receiver on ebay to link my phone to the portable PA and it worked very nicely. I didn't want to spend much, but didn't want rubbish either, so I checked some reviews and seller feedback and ended up spending $36 for a Tx and $19 for the Rx. The transmitter was this 'BTI-015' model: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Bluetooth-4-0-Stereo-Audio-Adapter-Dongle-Transmitter-for-TV-Speaker-HIFI/182424471306?hash=item2a7958870a:g:QJMAAOSw-0xYfXk3:rk:1:pf:0 The receiver was this 'B7' model: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wireless-B7-Bluetooth-4-1-Music-Audio-Receiver-For-Speaker-Headphone-Home-Car-MT/253961237957?hash=item3b2144f5c5:m:mmkHZUH9JdqXP7FXZKbnQ9w:rk:9:pf:0 I also looked at the Pro2 BMR3X Receiver, but couldn't really justify the price given it would only be used on rare occasions. https://www.kgelectronic.com.au/p/Electronics/Communications/Telephony/Mobile-Phones/BMR3X-Bluetooth-Audio-Music-Receiver/BMR3X Do your AT bluetooth headphones normally work fine in that location from other bluetooth transmitters? If so, then a better quality transmitter is probably worth pursuing. If not, you might be getting interference from another RF device.

What's the Watts?

Guitar virtuoso Matthew Fagan is performing a double show at Federation Square tonight. If what I heard on the 'Fret Net' program on 3PBS on Tuesday night is any indication, it should be a great show. https://www.eventopia.co/event/Espaa-El-Vito-The-Spirit-of-Spain-and-Lord-of-the-Strings/372301

Last Selby Folk Club night for 2018 is on Friday 7th December and should be a ripper of a night for acoustic music fans. Feature artists are Michael Waugh and Rich Davies and both of the supports, Tinman and Robbie Greig are of the same calibre. http://selbyfolkclub.com.au/?wysija-page=1&controller=email&action=view&email_id=59&wysijap=subscriptions&user_id=21

+1 So the faulty speaker is the one that is letting midrange material through to the the bottom 2 woofers. Manufacturers spec says the crossover for the bottom 2 woofers is right down at 280Hz with 24dB slopes, so you shouldn't be hearing any midrange material from them. Sounds like there's a wiring or crossover issue that is causing the woofers' LP filter to be bypassed. Compare the wiring between the 2 speakers and also check for any loose strands of wire that might be shorting to another terminal.

It's all here except i need to do another update re the change to 4th order crossover for the mid-tweeter to address the issue i mentioned in the last post.

Yes, that's right. My project involved 130L ported enclosures with a 3dB down point extending to 32Hz. So even with a 350Hz Xover point my woofer still has to cover almost 4 octaves while the other 2 only have to cover about 3 octaves each. And man, those chokes and polypropylene caps start to get expensive down there! Fortunately I plan to live with these speakers for a long while, so I was prepared to part with the extra $$ to have a lower xover point and a 4th order at the other end.