surprisetech

Your're getting Wireless and Wired theory mixed up here. In wired connections the current is the medium by which signals are transferred. In wireless connections electro-magnetic waves are the medium.

Can you point me to some reading on the science of this please? My understanding is that the cable forms a circuit (from Latin circuitus, ‘go round’. Think circle) between the source and sink. At a given point in the circle is a source device (Power Station, Amplifier, etc) that causes the current flow; At another point in the circle is a sink device (Speaker, The nichrome wire in your toaster, etc.) that reacts to the current flow. For AC signals, the cable, no matter where it sits in the circle, is just conducting current equally in both directions. The location of the source or sink is irrelevant to the work of the cable.

Yes it is, but that's only to do with where you choose to ground the shield. Nothing to do with the signals being transferred on the other conductors.

So the manufacturing technique conceivably might have some subtle effect when using the cable for DC applications (although no-one seems to care about that). However, audio signals are AC. The current flows in equal proportions in both directions. So if there is such an effect, it is going to be acting on one half of the waveform or the other half at any point in time. Any cable marketed as directional would be one to avoid in my opinion. For my AC signals, I'll take the non-directional cable please. So I'm with you.

For starters, my project will be just getting a couple of my systems installed and up & running after next Tuesdays house move. That will include routing some speaker cables (for surrounds), ethernet cables & antenna cables under floors &/or in ceilings. Might be playing a bit more physical media for a little while, although Wifi and Internet radio will be handy until the ethernet and antenna cabling is complete. (Now where did I store that Wifi dongle?!)

I successfully used this site to find someone to build my speaker boxes about 2 years ago. https://www.handkrafted.com/ Also spoke to these people recently about a custom entertainment unit, but didn't proceed because I found a buffet on ebay that suited my needs. http://thegreataustralianshelf.com.au/

V is Dave VanRonk A significant influence on Bob Dylan apparently.

G is Goanna - Spririt Of Place. Got to see the great man at a benefit concert in Healesville just a couple of weeks ago.

This is the one I'm using at work, but they also seem to be obsolete. https://www.laserco.com.au/PW-SURGE8MS-surge-protector-8-way-master-slave-2-double-space An Embertec Smart Switch would also do the job. It turns on the Slave outlet when any IR remote command is sensed, and turns it off when the device connected to the unswitched outlet is off, or when no remote activity is detected for a period of 1, 2 or 3 hours. I used one in our living room system for quite a few years. Originally put it in because the kids would forget to turn stuff off. Heaps of them on ebay: https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=embertec+smart+switch&_sacat=0

Have you considered using one of the power boards with Master & Slave outlets? Power the AVR or RB-1080 from the Master socket and the RB-993s from Slave sockets with the RB-993 power switches always on. As soon as the device on the Master socket powers up, the Slave outlets become active.

This model works with Sangean's UNDOK app and is also compatible with DS Audio if you're running a Synology NAS.

Sorry, but screen captures are the best I can do, but they will give you the general idea. Definitely analogue, Class AB NR-1501 is very similar.

NR1501 & NR1508 are Class AB, so the others in between those models probably are too. I've got schematics for the 1501 & 1508. Not sure about the newer 1509 & 1510. I'm only driving the Centre & Surrounds with my 1508 and very happy with it's performance. Power available to each speaker would be very close to the rated 50W RMS given that I'm only driving 3.

It's marketing. The more reputable folk give you Continuous RMS power ratings AND Dynamic power ratings for 2-Channel operation AND for all channels driven simultaneously AND for different speaker impedance values. Other than using the product's overall power consumption figure, if you have all that info for two different products, then you can make a more meaningful comparison. The others use various levels of omission &/or deception to make their specs look better &/or muddy the waters. As bmc says, there is usually one power supply for the output stages that is capable of delivering a given amount of total power. In many AVRs, that total power available from the PS is adequate to drive the front L/R amps to their limit (hopefully) and the rest of the amps to whatever the designer thinks is an adequate level for centre/surround duties. If you try and drive those other channels harder, the extra current draw causes the rail voltages to drop, so the front L/R amps can no longer deliver their rated output either. So in the absence of detailed specs, the product's overall power consumption will give a guide as to how much power the designer has actually allowed for in multi-channel duties. If comparing Class A/B (50-70% efficiency) to Class D (~90% efficiency) you also need to allow for the significantly different efficiency. https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/amplifier-classes About 2/3 way down the page.

Tracy McNeil & The Goodlife. You Be The Lightning Tour. March, April & May VIC, QLD, NSW & SA https://tracymcneil.com/?page_id=4642 Very talented singer/songwriter with a great band made up of Dan Parsons, Bree Hartley, Craig Kelly and Brendan McMahon. Alt. country/Rock/Folk styles. Aiming to get to Twilight Sounds or The Caravan Music Club show.