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Cloth Ears

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Cloth Ears last won the day on February 24 2016

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About Cloth Ears

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  • Birthday 25/07/1963

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  1. Snap! This is Navy strength rum spirit aged in a whisky barrel...also not fierce
  2. Dire Straits - best first 55 seconds of any first album ever. Followed by a stream of classic songs. Love Over Gold - can still listen to the first three tracks over and over. =Communique and Making Movies - while I liked them earlier, some of the songs now have me reaching for the 'next' button. Brothers in Arms - great production and some brilliant playing, just not engaging (now or back them) On Every Street - I like The Bug. Still really like Alchemy, catching them at the height of their live shows, with a great cross section of their music. And the Twisting by the Pool EP was excellent (if it was an album, it would have been number 2). There was another live album, but I never bought it.
  3. Ah! Italian for 'fancy beer', eh? Must be warm there in Sydney - I'm going to have to go for something a lot heavier and warming in Melbourne this afternoon!
  4. Dandy Warhols - Love is the new feel awful
  5. Summer Holiday - Sir Cliff! (P.S. have you ever read any of the Dave Warner novels?)
  6. Good for a laugh for a minute. @praljak had one in the classifieds back in March (but that's a long time in audio world). No idea if it sold...
  7. FYI - it works best if you put what you want in the Title of your post...:)
  8. Looking at your sub placement, I'd be guessing that the 50Hz dip is something to do with your sub placement. Having them in pleasing symmetry (physically) is generally something that would cause your room to have bass hot-spots. Maybe you could try moving them around with your software to see if that helps with the dip (and a 15dB is quite large). Or, if you're fit, moving them around physically to see if the measurements change at all.
  9. Oh, when you're using a subwoofer to remove the need to use your main speakers full-range, the benefits are more for the speaker than the amplifier. I run my mains down to about 60Hz and then actively cross them to a pair of bass drivers. This has freed up the bass drivers in my mains so that they are much clearer in all areas of the mid-range/mid-bass. This is due to the speaker not having to attempt to try to reproduce the bottom octave. You probably don't have to set the speakers to 'small'. I my (admittedly old) AVR, I can set the LFE crossover to 40, 60, 80, 100 or 120Hz. I don't actually do this, as I'm running my fronts using external amplifiers (one for the bass drivers and one each for the low and high sections of the main speakers).
  10. Assuming you already like the sound of your RC-30's when driver by one amplifier, driving them with two can have some benefits. A simple look at the back of the speakers shows it has a pair of binding posts for high- and low-pass crossovers - this indicates there is a parallel crossover in your speaker. Now, a parallel crossover can (not necessarily will) cause issues if your amplifiers are limited in some way, as the combination of the two parallel systems can drop the impedance seen by the amplifier to levels where it doesn't work particularly well. If you look at this by using a simple example of two midbass drivers wired in parallel. They may each have a nominal impedance of 8Ohms, but (say at 200Hz) this may drop to 4Ohms. And, wired in parallel, you amp could be looking at 2Ohms. Some amps are fairly happy with this, some are not. But, if you have one amp driving each of the drivers, using the same input signal, then the worst they would see would be 4Ohms (and they might be happier with this load). Similar with a parallel crossover. Each amp is looking at one 'half' of the crossover and would probably have an easier time driving it. Assuming you are using the same amplifier (type of amplifier), you would probably have better control of the movement of the driver cone (or whatever) and thus produce better sound. This probably works better with a full-range signal fed to all your amplifiers, as most passive crossovers are (at most) 12dB/octave, so you're still getting a -24dB signal when you're 2 octaves below the high-pass crossover point (so if the tweeter is crossed at 2000Hz, you're still getting a -24dB signal at 500Hz). As for doing it with your AVR, it would depend on the AVR. It would think it would need to have 2 sets of 'front' speakers for you to do this with the AVR. I haven't seen AVR's where you can send a full-range front signal to your 'rear' or 'surround' outputs. I know my old Marantz has two sets of 'front' speaker binding posts (I think one is 'high', but I'd assume it's the same signal as the other front outputs).
  11. Nice! You've reminded me - I think I've got one of these (similar vintage) and a Mt Ida of about the same age. I'll have to have a search of the cellar before the weekend...
  12. It's essentially the same with all high value items. If I want a painting covered for what it's worth, I have to specify it on the policy, along with a dollar value. Same with Mrs CE's jewelry and fancy clothes (would you believe a silk jacket could be worth over 5 grand?) Doesn't necessarily work that way for electronic equipment that is in the 'bought new, now 2 years old' categories. Similar to cars, you often only have replacement value - 2YO Renault gets you the money for a 2YO Renault. It's when you start looking at the car (Hi Fi) as an investment that you might be able to get an insurance company to play ball. And, if it can be on the same policy as your home and contents, it'll be a helluva lot cheaper than if you have to get it extra. Other things to think about - the total value of your contents versus your equipment. If it's more than half, you might have trouble persuading an insurance company that it's worth the risk of insuring you. Do you have a full set of deadlocks on doors and windows, alarms and back to base monitoring? All those can reduce your outlay for insurance and will persuade them that you're a better underwriting risk.
  13. Yes, all pre-amp functions should be bypassed, including volume.
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