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About HdB

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  1. What an objectionable advert and very poor customer reviews There's a lot of really good products for various types of repairs available but as the OP hasn't contiued with the enquiry, I assume he's progressed elsewhere - it would be interesting to find out what caused the breakage and the fix.
  2. On one of the ZeroZone power supplies kits, the S22 regulator (their version of the AMB Sigma 22) they sent Novers - after a somewhat rude comment, they sent replacement Nichicons and I think are still using them - I tried to get some Supertech's from Taiwan but only bulk quantities. A couple of tears ago, I sourced a whole stack of the "Elna for Audio" 12,000uF/63 from a guy in Djakarta that came from when one of the electronic companies closed down (Sony, Siemens, ..?) Extraordinary good power supply caps. Full of trivia tonight!
  3. The Studer supply is pretty generic so shouldn't present any surprises - been around for long time - if you ask the kit supplier for the circuit they'll probably send it to you straight away - suggest you upgrade the big Nover power caps if that's sent.
  4. This might sound a bit silly but I wonder if you were to use a really high quality 5v supply, via that usb plug, if it would make any audible difference? Just musing out loud here as I have found that all the buffers I have used are very dependent on the quality of power supplies, just like any/many other active circuits, I guess. Do Burson Audio make their own cables too - any reviews, experiences, etc - there doesn't appear to be anything about cables on their website that I can find ...
  5. Well that V5i IC circuit chip does need power to operate and that slim socket on the side looks to be the only way to get it so, it is an active device inserted in the middle of the interconnect cable as a unity gain buffer (gain of 1) - quite a neat idea actually.
  6. Is that a series transformer in the middle? Ah, no - finally found it. It's a V5i chip powered by usb so it's a signal line buffer and could be very useful indeed as an "impedance matching" device - it's listed on the US site as U$139 (if I got that right?) plus the usual exorbitant freight/postage so maybe around the A$250? It does come with the ICs so that's a big plus too. I prefer the sound of their V6 chip myself and with a high quality power supply, it could make this a potential winner although this wouldn't be all that cheap - the V6 chip itself is about A$80 (stereo), a good quality shunt reg will be maybe another 150+, and a pcb, case, plugs/sockets, etc maybe another 100? (+ about A$400). Then add the extra ICs … I did a B1 buffer (the Hypnotize project on Diya) and that came to about A$300, I think, plus the extra IC pair.
  7. Hey intercept, how did you go with fixing the headband? If you haven't made any progress and live in the Eastern side of town, I'll take a look at them if you like to see what's what. I've got some tubes of that fancy glue too if that's required.
  8. HdB

    WTB: 6SN7 Tubes

    Do you want to try some Russian ones?
  9. Transistors recommended height of transistor body centre on heatsinks is 40% from bottom. This is the centre of the metal face of the transistor, not the mounting hole - you could use 4 "dual transistor mounting pressure clips" each side for this to save drill & taps You need quite a bit of ventilation holes/openings in both bottom and top covers
  10. Why not mount the transformers on their sides (vertically with angle bracket support or front faces mount) to not waste space - if the diameters are bigger than the 3U height (140mm high?), then add the small bottom spacer to fit. Mount the 2 power supply pcbs vertically with their 2 bottom faces (underneath surfaces) mounted on common central vertical support bracket and position the whole assembly front-to-back. Or maybe mount the 2 power supply pcbs one above the other if it fits. Maybe other ways too ... The extra small control pcb can be mounted vertically in front of the 2 vertical transformer (extra bracket screwed/ mounted on transformer mounting bolts, for example. There's still space on the back panel to mount a possible protection board A bit of lateral thinking here will probably devise better ways than this too.
  11. Yes, SSZ, the tone has deteriorated over the last years, not sure why - perhaps it's a sign of the times or something. It is still one of the really good sites for direct access to developing projects, mainly the do-it-yourself ones and high level technical information - not everyone's interested in that side of things - AudioCircle is another one. Also, on SNA, we are a bit of a rare exception - in many other audio & music sites, the behavior is atrocious, and self discipline is totally absent - and the moderation is also really good too. Looking at some of the other LDR products (yes, even on diyA too) is a good reference to the SC volume control, particularly it's close connection here, the price value and it's excellent support - that's not so easy to match in many diy projects. The interesting thing about these LDR vol controls is that despite the antagonistic atmosphere to them on diyA, there is a steady stream of products/projects appearing in their listings, and other places too, so George's original design is still evolving.
  12. Thanks for that. Sorry guys for the off track query in this the Stereo Coffee thread but rather curious about the setup with the Dacgear LDR Pre, etc It looks like the mid is the Lii audio 10" with a ribbin tweeter, yes plus maybe a Fostex horn firing to the ceiling? and the KM750 drives the bass? Is there any 'eq' or Xover? Presume you use the Wavebourn amp for the mids and trebles and the KM750 for bass, yes?
  13. Hi Matty, just a side issue, please excuse. Could you put up a picture of your diy OB speakers, by any chance
  14. You have to include the source and load in the evaluation of each type of attenuator - and it makes a considerable difference. The old "rule of thumb" ratios are just a starting point. Some types of attenuators will suit a load but not a source and the reverse - some types will not suit either but occasionally, a really good match will result in a huge change that'll suit the overall sound to the listener better - many of us settle for a reasonable or convenient compromise but it's never an easy or simple choice - sometimes, we just get lucky. Some systems will benefit with a TVR, some an active stage, some a buffer, etc, etc and as nearly all our hearing preferences are different, the variations of attenuators have a wide & varied market.
  15. Hi Dave, I wonder if these are the same resistor material that are used in the Supertech power plate resistors - I managed to get some of the Isabellenhutte Manganin power resistors when they were still available awhile back but I think the Mundorf ones are a bit brighter. Yes, much more transparent than the Deulund's altho sometimes they seem to match some of the silver type ICs and/or speaker cables. Curiously, if you mention the "sound" of resistors on diyAudio, you'll get a rudely aggressive response - somehow, it's become a forbidden subject or something! It's good to see you making such good progress on your room - I have quite a few spare units of the modern equivalent to the 1D Schroeder diffusers (Arqen Audio/Tim Perry's "leanfusers") if you want to play around with them for your acoustics.
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