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Everything posted by A9X

  1. I wouldn't. They're too small based upon the many I have used from Lundahl, Jensen and Cinemag, all of which have actually met spec. I would expect the LF distortion to rise from a fairly high frequency as there is unlikely enough primary inductance to support good LF performance. The type and quality of the core material will have a large effect also.
  2. No, but I can guarantee it's not 100Wx2.
  3. I had a major accident at work last year that almost completely severed 2 tendons in my shoulder and has meant I could barely pick up a paperback with my left arm. Post surgery rehab is taking a long time (no fun being old) and I'm reluctant to do anything without the physio's approval. It's very political and annoying me a lot but I think we're nearly there. I wasn't even allowed to play bass, even sitting on the couch until just recently, and that's hardly exerting, but I'm now allowed back to the gym for mild workouts. I have a huge number of projects ready, as well as speakers etc. Oh, I'm not on any drugs but I do understand the 'hillbilly heroin' tag from the two weeks post surgery. Yee-har!
  4. Thanks. I'll be heading to Bunnings next week hopefully to pick some up. I've still not been given the go ahead for doing any woodwork post surgery, so I'm setting up for it. Hopefully on the 11th. Then the surrounds construction starts.
  5. Of course it's silly, it was meant to be. And I see an exact parallel. I'm not a fan of the didge either, but if the person playing it is good, then their colour is irrelevant. Same goes for any instrument; just because your mob didn't invent it, doesn't mean that you can master it.
  6. I feel the same way about non-Asian children playing the violin.
  7. Thanks for that. Might be worth a few $ to test, but am still dubious of the efficacy compared to rockwool etc. Happy to be wrong and have something else to use.
  8. Last I checked, you can't breathe through yoga mats, so they're useless acoustically.
  9. That's what I do; staples, some offcut cotton fabric to position it and hold it in place. I use matrix type bracing in all of my boxes and do this do that stuffing on the rear walls doesn't fall forward over time to the rear of the driver cones, or block the path between the driver and port openings. It's not going to settle in the LXMinis. Just fill it to the density described in the plans and you'll be sweet.
  10. If reworking them at home after purchase yields a 40dB SNR improvement it must be a pretty crap design and build. I've never built a tube amp with an SNR that poor, even throwing together a proto on a bit of MDF wired with clip leads.
  11. PM Zaphod Beeblebrox here. Trev is Sydney based but has an excellent reputation. Can't hurt to send a message and ask.
  12. I meant to add this into the previous post, but there is a considerable amount I disagree with in the SVS info you copy/pasted. I'd rather measure the sub and L/R and make decisions based on that than go by ROTs for example. They're trying to tell you how to add a sub without high passing the L/R as they have no facilities to do that on their subs. As I stated earlier, not the best approach.
  13. You've made some incorrect assumptions... It won't take anywhere near that long. Bingo. Plus to expand, human hearing is weakest, both in terms of sensitivity and resolution at LF. It's also easy to miss narrow peaks or dips in the FR, which are hard to detect by ear, but over time you may wonder why a particular recording or instrument on such, usually piano, organ or bass has a weak or exaggerated note or harmonics. Xover frequencies and slopes can more easily be chosen by the FR and distortion characteristics of the sub and L/R to see where they marry up best. With a decent measurement suite, such as REW, a calibrated mic and a PC, I'll find those errors in minutes. As everyone has a PC, all it takes is a Umic (~$100 last I looked) to set it up. I'd rather pony up for the mic, and get it done in a couple of hours than spend weeks agonising over it by ear. Plus the mic can be useful for other tasks later. I've often offered to lend my measurement system out, but have never had a taker (can't any more as I also use the phantom PS and mixer for another task).
  14. From memory, it's 12dB in all the units I've seen or worked on. Don't recall if it was Butterworth or Linkwitz-Riley.
  15. You can do it one of two ways. Poorly: run the sub in parallel with the L/R. Easiest and simplest, but may not be simplest to set up well. Well: Add a line level xover before the Naim to high pass the L/R, adding the sub as an extra "way" to the system. A long time ago I had Linn/Naim active system so it's not like option 2 is unheard of. Setting up by ear alone is much more difficult than measuring and almost always produces lesser results.
  16. Nice resto. I have a 2285B that is waiting in a box for retirement to do a full resto on. I have a full set of original service manuals for it. I'm putting it off until later as I've pulled apart a few vintage Marantz units and they are a lot of work, so I'd prefer to just dedicate a few days to it in a stretch. It didn't come with a wooden sleeve so I'll make one up. I've got a Fisher 800B that has been hacked up really well that will be getting the same treatment.
  17. Cu = copper. They're not commonly used because Cu is soft compared to brass. Electrically brass is going to make zero difference compared to copper in this application, except the Cu parts are expensive.
  18. Just buy Neutriks. Won't make the slightest bit of difference as it's DC. Nope, they're just pots with indents. I own a couple. At line level with effectively no current, it's going to make a difference, why?
  19. T/S specs really only tell you about behaviour around resonance, not how the driver will perform wideband or as the excursion increases. They're fairly cheap, so give them a whirl. We probably haven't heard about them because they're untested and some of us aren't interested in being guinea pigs any more and would just rather spend on known quantities. Best of luck, and post your project as others will be interested.
  20. I've owned both, and the Cheviots are hampered by an extremely inadequate enclosure and a mediocre xover. So, given a pick, stock, I'd take the KEFs. Let me modify the Cheviots the way I'd like (and have done) and they'd most likely be the pick.
  21. Thank you. Thanks as well. As these will only be used for MDF and ply, do I really need to spend the extra? Typically that will only be 1 thickness of 19mm at a time.
  22. Likewise, do you have a link for me please? Don't care which store sells it, so long as I can get it online, Bunnings, H&F etc.
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