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iversons13

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About iversons13

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  • Birthday 29/08/1984

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    Perth
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    Australia

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  1. This seems like a readily available alternative to vantablack: http://stuartsemple.com/project/black-v1-0-beta-worlds-mattest-flattest-black-art-material/ Though my aim here is to just find a close colour match the Solver Scenic Black. I've ordered some Roscos Off Broadway, it's meant to be similar to the Supersatured but a little easier to work with. Will report back once it arrives.
  2. The ceiling in my theatre room is painted with Solver Brite-Glo Scenic Poster Black - an extra matt finish which almost looks like a dark charcoal rather than a true black. I'm installing some coving in the bulkhead for RGB uplighting and need to match the ceiling colour, however I was advised by Solver that it is no longer stocked - at least not here in WA. I grabbed some regular flat black but it's a darker black and has more of a sheen. I don't need an exact match but that was too far off to satisfy the OCD. So, this is probably a long shot, but given this paint was popular around these parts, does anyone know: 1. Whether it is still available anywhere - I'm thinking there may be a specialty store out there that has some, or 2. Whether there are any similar products that may be a closer match? I've heard Roscopaint Velvet Black mentioned on here - has anyone compared the two, or know where I can get some in Perth? Cheers Steve
  3. Am I right in saying that repeaters require their own power supply, or is this only the case where the power requirement of the strips exceed the output of the single driver?
  4. Thanks WasM. It shows the spin I’m in with this, as I did in fact mean watts where I referred to ‘v’ in my post. I’ll edit it now for the sake of clarity. What I’d like to understand is the easiest way to wire things up, as from what I’ve read, voltage drop along one continuous run of LEDs is a problem over 5m, which is why other methods are used, eg amplifiers/repeaters and/or multiple runs of cables from the transformer to various parts of the strip.
  5. Despite days of googling I’m a little stumped at how best to wire 12m of RGB strip in a square bulkhead with 3m sides. Ideally I’d like to use one driver and one wifi controller. From what I’ve read, If I use 12v 5050 RGB strip with 60 LEDs/m, they draw around 14w/m, meaning I would require a driver capable of outputting 168w (14w multiplied by 12m) or 14amps, plus an extra 20% headroom. The controller would also need to be rated for this power. My confusion is two fold. Ebay has a lot of really cheap kits, some claiming to be suitable for 15m runs, yet they only come with 6 or 8amp power supplies. What am I missing here and are these kits even safe? Secondly, If I were to buy individual components rather than a kit, I’m not clear on the best way to configure the wiring and where to source components. My thought was to use one driver (or two if required) with power being fed to 4 lengths of 3m strip. But does this mean I need to run 4 extension leads from the controller to each strip using 4 core wire? Is this a feasible method or should I be using amplifiers? These questions are perhaps better distilled down to one: What is the best way to achieve 12m of wifi controlled RGB strip that is both safe and economical? Cheers Steve
  6. Interestingly I've had the same issue with a RX-V3800 powering Focal 826v. I just ignored it and put it down to room acoustics. There's very basic tests available online (e.g. youtube) to test phase, and it's usually quite obvious when there's an issue with the front L and R.
  7. I have a SVS PB12-plus I may be willing to part with. It's about as close to the PB13 as you can get. Gloss black. Located in Perth. We can discuss it further in PM if you're interested. Cheers Steve
  8. There's so many variables when it comes to subwoofer positioning and subsequent integration that you really are flying blind without the ability to take baseline measurements and re-measure as you make changes. I would start by buying the umik-1 and doing some initial sweeps. Test one sub by itself, then the other, then both combined and start to get an understanding of the interaction. At this point you can experiment with positioning, with the goal to find positions that are as flat as possible, but also compensate for the shortcomings of each placement. By that I mean, if one sub has a big dip at 50hz, that you ensure the other sub is measuring a good output in this range. At this point unless you get really lucky with placement or your AVR can do a decent job of integration, some form stand alone bass management/EQ will likely be required for multiple subs. There's some affordable solutions out there, like the mini DSP 2x4, and most have guides online about the integration process. Room treatments are definitely still something to pursue, but probably not for this particular issue. The broadband suff you've proposed is mainly used to clean up mid bass, mid range and top end reverb. If your goal is to address problem frequencies that are sub 80hz, you'll need some seriously large corner traps or a diaphrammatic solution tailored for for your specific problem frequency range. Depending on construction method you could also investigate converting your seating riser into a big trap. Otherwise, what you're proposing will likely make the bass even more prominent, as the rest of the reverberations will be killed off, giving you that "dead" top end characteristic.
  9. Agree with WasM, room analysis and treatments if you haven't already ventured down this path. Or alternatively, professional audio and video calibration. These processes may actually assist in identifying the system's weak points, too, which will inform future equipment upgrades.
  10. I'll be going DIY frame too, but want to stay away from fibreglass if possible. To give people a rough idea of price, I was quoted $275 for XHD 50mm, 6 sheets of 2400x1200, in white. I'm told the black is more expensive.
  11. Has anyone been able to source black XHD recently? I tried through an insulation mob here in WA and got the common response that it's made to order for commercial quantities only. Group buy anyone?
  12. I've read, though I'm yet to try it, that an electric heated knife does the trick. Works by melting through the fibres rather than cutting in the traditional sense.
  13. A few things I wish I gave more thought to: 1. Build in provisions for surround wides, ie 9.1.x. Filling in the gap between mains and side surrounds is the next level for immersive audio. Wiring can always be run down the track but it gets tricky if your door is right in the preferred speaker location. 2. Consider room acoustics now. If it's a rectangular room, simulation software can predict room modes, which will guide room size and seating location, which in turn determines speaker placement. Also look to integrate treatments into any baffle walls, risers etc you may be building. 3. This one was mentioned, but now is the time to determine your sound isolation needs. There's no fixing a leaky room post construction. 4. If possible find a way to house the projector and equipment in an adjacent room or partition. Similarly, it adds a little bit of extra wow factor when all speakers are concealed so the sound can be heard but not seen. 5. If you're going with two rows of seats, multiple subs will likely be required to achieve a consistent bass response. 4 subs positioned at the 1/4 way points on the front and rear walls, or subs at the mid points on all 4 walls are proven locations. This may affect door location or, at the very least, add to the cabling and power requirements.
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