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TP1 last won the day on April 10 2017

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  1. I have moved away from dipoles as well. Once properly setup, you can get very precise imaging and sound steering with direct firing speakers and with discrete channels in codecs like Auro 3D, I think dipoles could be a disadvantage. Height speakers can be called on to do a fair bit from music to surround effects. I can recommend these 3 way speakers in the ceiling https://www.selby.com.au/brands/polk/polk-90-rt-vanishing-rt-series-in-ceiling-three-way-loudspeaker-vs90rt-white.html
  2. I Thanks for the link. The opening paragraph resonated with me because it is how I think I have experienced the differences Auro-3D is the “Immersive Sound” format that revolutionized the cinema industry with true 3D sound. Auro-3D is also the first 3D sound format brought to home theaters, with the introduction of compatible A/V receivers in January 2014. Note that Auro-3D is not a conventional “Surround Sound” format but an “Immersive Sound” format. What’s the difference? Surround formats, like standard 5.1 and 7.1 are 2-dimensional formats using an auditory plane around the listener. They are not true 3D audio formats with X, Y, and Z dimensions to envelop the listener. Whether a codec is object or channel based is really secondary to how successful it is in delivering a superior sound experience.
  3. That isn't my experience - quite the contrary in fact. Auro-3D is designed as a 3D immersive codec so a front end-emphasis is definitely not what is supposed to happen. I think a lot depends on the speaker setup/positioning and the source material. I can't recall if Marantz has much tweaking room with Auro-3D but I've managed to tweak the Lyngdorf and I prefer Auro with quite a few of the later releases. However, I do recall being very impressed with Auro-3D on the Marantz 8805 while watching Mission Impossible- Rogue Nation. Auro-3d was far more convincing with the Atmos sound track than the others. I'
  4. If you have ceiling speakers, may I suggest giving Auro 3D a go. It technically requires a different layout to ATMOS and DTS-X, but I have found that on some ( not all) TrueHD / DTS-HD/ Atmos/ DTS-X audio tracks, Auro-3D can provide a more convincing and immersive performance. As I said, it may not be better in every case but it was enough for me to understand why Dolby was so worried about the threat of Auro-3D that it considered prohibiting the use of Auro-3D to process Dolby codecs.
  5. Current Sony ARC works flawlessly with gear I have hooked up at the moment.
  6. In my experience Panasonic products are excellent quality and are top performers but after sales support has never been what Panasonic are about. It seems to me that will do the bare minimum in terms of legal requirements and no more.
  7. It should I think, and a quick search shows there are some DACs you can plug an iPhone into. But if anyone can get access to a CA iD100, Id be trying that via digital optical or RCA to the DAC. It is a remarkably clean sound and avoids the USB interfaces.
  8. I doubt it can be done since it isn't a hardware issue. In order to access the digital information directly, the component you are attaching to the iphone/iPod/iPad needs to have appropriate licensing from Apple to unlock direct access to the digital files. In all other cases you will only get analog . If you want to go down that road, an old Cambridge Audio unit is your best bet. In terms of sound quality, I can remember it being truly outstanding at the time. It completely blew away the performance from the analog outputs of iOS devices with any half reasonable DAC.
  9. If you want to keep using the computer as the music source, I would suggest keeping your current computer for music only and use the new one for all other duties. To extend the life and speed up the old one, you could have an SSD installed. For static, music server duties only, there is no reason that it shouldn't last for a number years to come. I still have an 11 year old Macbook pro lying around that refuses to die.
  10. The cheapest option ( if you have an iPod or iPhone) is to pick up a second hand Cambridge Audio ID100 dock ( not sure of they are still made) Apple has license Cambridge audio to access the digital information directly so there is no conversion to analog first as in the case of many other docks. https://www.cambridgeaudio.com/row/en/products/archive/id100 A better alternative is something like this little unit. These types of devices have taken off in Asia on a pretty big scale and for the price, you cant really go wrong. This model seems to tick the boxes you are looking for and then some. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001063614771.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.36443c1fT9qhpk&algo_pvid=627fdf4a-654a-470f-8503-253220677819&algo_expid=627fdf4a-654a-470f-8503-253220677819-0&btsid=0ab50f0815952491984522368e82da&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603
  11. This usually gets down to a process of elimination. Perhaps try removing/swapping things from the circuit one at time to see if it makes a difference. I usually start with power then look at swapping RCA cables and even speaker cables, one component at a time. Also unplug any item not being used. The hard to trace noises are often induced into the system whereby RFI/EMI is picked up somewhere and manages to get into and played through the system. I've seen cases where the same speaker cables which are flawless in one setup can induce a noise into a system in another, same for power distributor, RCA cables etc.. If the source cant be tracked through elimination, then I'd recommend trying an RCA isolation transformer between each component ( one at time) . Something like this. https://www.altronics.com.au/p/a2517-unbalanced-stereo-line-isolation-transformer-rca-rca/ In pro audio, these are used a lot because it's often not possible to suppress the source of RFI/EMI that is causing the problem. I used an Ypsilon BC-1 transformer for a while until I upgraded gear, simply because the combo of equipment I had generated a similar noise to yours. The same system was dead silent when played at another person's house.
  12. I do understand that it is not as easy as a press of a button, and as with DIY anything, the top pros will do it better. However, Chromapure ( and I think Calman) can also auto calibrate grayscale as part of their autocal packages with both companies having published guides as well as providing support. Lightspace is LUT only. In any event, automatic LUT calibrating of 4913 points is pretty awesome from a DIY perspective and it does not use approximations ( in the words of LightSpace) as does the Autocal software designed for specific brands of projectors and TVs . In Australia Lumagen is largely marketed through custom installers and their customers expect the full service including calibration, as they should. However, in the USA as well as a growing number of people in Australia, UK, and Europe, customers are enthusiasts willing to tweak themselves. These people are also looking at Lumagen or MadVR as tools to extract the best performance from their system. I guess the reason for all this is that I am at the point of taking the plunge on a Lumagen myself and I have been going through all these issues, except that in my case I would want to do calibration regularly which would rule out professional calibration from a cost and convenience perspective.
  13. Lumagen has teamed with a number of software companies and there are some pretty good packages for auto-calibration. So no adjustments are made to your PJ- its all done on the Lumagen automatically. One of the providers, Chromapure auto -cal can do 4913 point accuracy.
  14. If the app doesn't work its a software glitch. I'd suggest deleting the app altogether then re-installing after a reboot. The same thing can happen on any device.
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