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Everything posted by Quark

  1. I'm sure you'll be happy with them - well at least until plaster starts coming loose!
  2. Do you want a grille - not sure the Cyclonix has that option. Not sure if Selby have any in their demo rooms to listen to.
  3. Just leave the distance setting for the sub at the amount set by Audyssey - it's allowing for the physical difference, plus processing delays in the sub's amp, to get your sub in phase with the rest of the sound.
  4. A pleasure to catch up and chat - been too long.
  5. Yep, the Epson will be fine. You might need to be careful not to mount it too far back for the 87" 16:9 image, depending on room size.
  6. A 110" scope screen will have a 16:9 image of ~87". If you go with a scope screen, you really need a projector with motorised lens memory to switch between the two aspect ratios otherwise the 16:9 image will spill over the top and bottom of the screen. This puts you in a more expensive range of projectors. Switching between aspect ratios manually is a PITA and likely won't get wife approval.
  7. I'm running a couple of smaller PSA S1500s in a slightly larger room - you're welcome to come around for a demo.
  8. Should have added that the AV7705's Audyssey XT32 does a great job of dual sub integration - don't think you need separate DSP when not integrating into a stereo system.
  9. Peter at DeepHz has the PSA V1800 on run-out special @ $1850 - don't let the price fool you, these are serious stuff. Not sure if PSA in the US will supply some of their really serious stuff direct if you want insane slam. I understand Peter is not expecting new PSA stock anytime soon. Note PSA is run by one of the founders of SVS. JTR are great, but shipping back for warranty would be $$$ There's no way I'd recommend Seaton gear - great when working, but support is problematic at best, non-existent at worst.
  10. OK, turn the sub up to 3, then rerun Audyssey (a PITA I know, but..) - it should set the LFE gain a fair bit lower. The extra distance for the sub is to deal with processing delays and should be left at the distance set by Audyssey.
  11. If you're streaming it's possible it's just glitches in your ISPs network causing the issue. The gain is labelled Volume on your Thor. To manually adjust the sub gain in your receiver go to the menu > speakers > manual setup and find the sub setting.
  12. One more thought, it's possible that the 7.5dB gain is providing too high a signal for your sub's amp. Try turning up the gain on your sub and manually reducing the LFE gain in your receiver to 0dB.
  13. OK, probably need to check whether the pops are repeatable at the same point in movies and whether they are volume dependent. If they are repeatable note the movie and time index and make contact with Qualifi (local Marantz distributor) - may need a firmware fix. They will If it's volume dependent it's possible the sub driver is bottoming out, but the Thor isn't exactly wimpy, so not expected. It is a bit odd that Audyssey is adding 7.5dB gain for your sub - is this in a large open plan area?
  14. OK, that makes it easier. I'm not aware of any particular issues with your gear, but based on past experiences there are three things I'd suggest: Make sure you have the latest firmware in the player and receiver - might be something that is known and a fix is available. Set the player to output PCM/LPCM rather than bitstream - it's not unknown for pops to occur when bitstreamed data is decoded. Use a good quality shielded cable between the receiver and sub to avoid potential EMF from other appliances on the same circuit switching on/off.
  15. I've purchased twice from the seller here - highly recommended!
  16. Is you receiver connected to the player by HDMI or analog cable(s)? I'm assuming the receiver is old as I can't find any data on that model.
  17. Working fine for me - using Firefox and no VPN.
  18. The Sony could be up to 6.5 years old, or a lot newer. Is the seller able to provide some evidence of its age. Lamp life is not a reliable indicator, as it may be on its third or more lamp. However, if the Sony isn't too old, I'd be tempted if it was $5K or less as your post suggests. Suggest you check the image for convergence and also look for any evidence of loss of contrast (some Sonys have experienced significant loss of contrast, particularly if in humid environments). The Epson is faux 4K, but this model has had really good optics and obviously will have warranty support.
  19. The really sad thing about the POS STR-DN1080 is that it's maximum power consumption is a puny 240W. Now apply 70% efficiency for class A/B amplification leaves a max 168W - divide that by 7 channels leaves a pathetic 24W per channel. How the mighty have fallen.
  20. FYI the original Mk1 AV7702 didn't have HDCP 2.2 for 4K. You'll need the AV7702 Mk11 or later.
  21. FYI, Electronic Forefront are grey importers - if the MF stuff is grey import you may be relying on them, rather than the local distributor for warranty and parts. Not saying you shouldn't buy from them, just letting you know.
  22. Looks good to me, but you might consider having the rear surrounds a little wider apart. Also, if you're ever planning to get a projector, the short throw distance on the current layout will limit your options - a projector would work better with the layout turned 90 degrees clockwise.
  23. The manual for your pre isn't very informative, but indicates it will accept input from a DVD player. Try setting the output on the TV to dolby digital if available.
  24. Is there an option in the TV to output optical as PCM? I doubt that your DAC will have the capability to decode bitstreamed data.
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