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Quark

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About Quark

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  1. OK, one other option you may want to consider before upgrading, is a couple of door wedges under the centre to angle it up towards your ears - this can make a big difference. If the new place has a HT room as large as your current one I suspect the SB2000 is still going to be struggling. I'd recommend spending a bit more on a PSA V1800, or an S1500 if the V1800 is too large for your tastes. PSA is run by one the original founders of SVS.
  2. OK, just wanted to check. To be honest, I suspect the real issue is the very basic room equalisation in your Onkyo AVR. Other factors that may be in play are: Too many hard surfaces in the room causing a lot of "slap echo". This is very common in rooms with hard flooring. If you clap your hands do you get a ringing effect afterwards? A thick rug may help. Seating against back wall - you get sound reflected off the back wall that is out of time with the direct sound. Try moving the seating a few feet off the wall.
  3. Have you tried bumping up the sound level for the centre speaker?
  4. If the cable is labelled as directional it will have a "source" end to go into the Panny and a "display" end to go in the Sony.
  5. The cable al suggested should also work, but I'm a fan of the Ruipro cables - very reliable. Also note that most of these new cables are directional - one end for display and one for source. They will definitely not work in reverse.
  6. It will be the cable that's the issue, especially at that length (no-one was making a 7+m HDMI cable that would reliably carry 4K bandwidth five years ago). I'd recommend a Ruipro fibreoptic HDMI cable. Also, turn off 4.4.4 and go to 4.2.0, not sure those early HDMI 2.0 chipsets could handle it and discs are only encoded at 4.2.0.
  7. That shouldn't be too hard - cut out a small area for the wall plate (I like the brush style plates) and feed an electricians flexy up (you can buy them at Bunnings). Most builders use noggins that are a bit thinner than the studs, so you can get the flexy and a draw string through, then pull the cable. Try it on one side of the insulation, then the other if needed. You may need a stud finder to determine where to cut and/or to trace power cables. For cable I use this stuff.
  8. There would typically be some ~20mm thick battens running at right angles on top of the rafters, so you shouldn't need to drill the rafters, just go over the top of them. Probably enough room once you cut the speaker holes for a good sparky to feed a flexy and draw string (to pull cables) through to the screen wall, but may need to cut plaster where the wall meets the ceiling unless they can lift the edge of the Kliplock.
  9. Given that Sony developed SACD technology and the associated standards don't mandate hybrid SACD/CD layers (i.e. single layer SACD only discs can and do exist) you have a mighty strong case.
  10. FYI, Selby now have 15% off Krix Dynamix speakers.
  11. There's probably some ambulance chasing lawyers ready to go in to bat for you!
  12. Did someone say misleading and deceptive conduct... Shame on you Sony.
  13. If you've got room for 4 Atmos ceiling speakers, then I'd recommend going with the rear surrounds as well for the full immersive effect.
  14. While not ideal, a difference of only ~5 degrees isn't likely to be noticeable in most soundtracks. Are you able to mount both at 85 degrees? IMO this would be preferable. I've run a 5.1 system in the past with surrounds placed at the rear due to room constraints and it sounded fine to my ears, so IMO this is also a good option if you're only looking for 5.1, not 7.1.
  15. Screaming bargain here! As a previous Enigma owner (not this one) these are a wonderful sounding pre, especially with a a bit of valve rolling on the 6922s. The noise floor shames many high end solid state pre-amps. GLWTS.
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