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About Quark

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  1. That's pathetic! Between the many reports of poor panel alignment, soft lenses and now the yellow tint isn't going to be fixed, there's no way I'll be buying this year's JVC models. Wonder whether JVC will survive this debacle long enough to get a chance to fix things with next year's models. After some good years where quality control was mostly good, it seems JVC have gone back to their old ways of bungled engineering and near enough is good enough QC.
  2. Looks like it's not an uncommon issue and can be the amp or the driver. Some more information in the thread here. A DD18 is a great sub - would definitely try to get it repaired.
  3. I moved house last year and went from separate HT and stereo systems in one large room to an all in one system in a medium sized room without much compromise. The main changes were to a good pre-amp with HT bypass (an Elektra Pnyx) and a solid state stereo power amp (Elektra HD 300) from some Stereo Knight valve gear. However, if you're keen on running a valve power amp then you probably don't want to be burning up power valves watching movies.
  4. On my understanding of the rules (which may be out of date) you should be OK with one more post.
  5. List them separately - if someone wants the lot I'm sure they'll make an offer. I'd offer different advice if you were selling say a matching pre and power amp of the same brand.
  6. Unless you're going to place your LCR speakers behind an AT (acoustically transparent) screen there's not much point going in-wall, unless you have a partner that wants a "less cluttered room". Krix have a range of in-wall speakers at various price points.
  7. I think the seller is a part time AV retailer.
  8. Try disconnecting the antenna from the TV and see if it makes a difference.
  9. I found it good for the octuplet of KT120s I purchased.
  10. A matched quad is IMO essential to get both channels matched. I've had good service and pricing from this crowd (link to their KT77s).
  11. I suspect a good part of the answer will depend on what projector model and screen size you want to run with. This is probably one of the first decisions you need to make in my opinion as it will set the parameters for the space you need. If you can mount the projector where the TV joinery currently is, then if using a recent model JVC, you would be good for a maximum 125" 16:9 screen, without the need to chop into the study. The 125" screen would be tight for adequate throw distance and would be leaving just a few cm behind the projector. Presume you would run with a drop down screen if mounting in front of the windows. Your sparkie/cabler should be able to lift roof panels and feed cables down your walls, whether for power or AV. Just leave the solar panel installation until afterwards.
  12. You should be fine with your budget if you're not looking for super sound proofing (i.e resilient mounts, furring channel etc). I spent $4K in labour (chippies who removed old plaster, installed doors, built part wall, helped install insulation, put yellowtongue flooring on 2 walls and plastered) for a HT room conversion - details here. Materials were extra. When getting quotes, decide whether you want a fixed price or an hourly rate. I went with an hourly rate, as tradies tend to add a contingency factor when you ask for a fixed price - YMMV. Given it's a garage and lower than the house, is the drainage good enough to avoid flooding in future? Don't mean to be a naysayer, but... A few more random thoughts: If you do decide to integrate music and HT I'd recommend a preamp with HT bypass e.g. a used Elektra Pynx or earlier equivalent. Most preamps will sound better than any AV processor/AVR. Run some 40mm conduit in the wall and roof space for your HDMI cable (I'd recommend including a draw string and Cat 6 cable for future proofing). Agree, you can go for smaller in-ceiling speaker as suggested by Kezzbot, or have your chippy build some small enclosures and mount on your ceiling. You can download the recommended layout for a 7.x.4 Atmos setup here. With only two seats in a good sized room, you may need some wall treatments to reduce the amount of slap echo / reverb, notwithstanding the carpeted floor. Edit - also make sure the plaster and yellowtongue is screwed, not nailed!!
  13. If they're putting it in the same places on particular models, perhaps it's a standardised approach to vibration control. Mind you, I'd expect more than a bit of tape on ES models, especially for the $ that are asked.
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