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  1. It will accept a 4K signal, but isn't HDCP 2.2 compliant. You'll need something like a Monoprice Blackbird for it to display UHD discs without downresing to 1080P.
  2. Screaming bargain from a reliable seller! GLWTS.
  3. I'm not a faon of buying receivers from overseas - local 50Hz frequency can cause power supply issues (noise and higher operating temp) even with a step down transformer. More importantly the Sony has the Mr Puniverse of power supplies with a max power draw of 240W. After allowing 70% efficiency from class A/B that leaves you 168W, then divide by 7 channels = 24W/channel. Probably even less in the real world, as we're not allowing for the power consumed by the pre-amp and processing stage.
  4. Plexus spray and a proper microfibre cloth works miracles!
  5. I'd normally expect new JVC models to appear late in the year, but recent discounting suggests things might be different this year. Don't know if that means JVC will go to native 4K - if they do I'd expect pricing will move up.
  6. Quark

    JVC 4K E-shift & UHD?

    Expletive! Just looked and find that Radioparts are no longer stocking these. You might have to purchase a Blackbird from Monoprice in the US.
  7. Not unusual for rental discs to be down-specced from retail - the local distributors love their penny-pinching.
  8. You might also consider sources of reverb in the wall - loose plaster, the speaker cable against plaster (I had a long battle with a HDMI cable rattling in wall during heavy bass), builder's debris etc.
  9. Yes, that's right. You could make some panels up by building a timber frame, adding insulation and covering with fabric to suit. For the false wall, it depends how far you want to go. If you can remove plaster from one side to add insulation, that would be a big start. Adding a layer of ~17mm plywood before re-plastering will go further. There's lots of options beyond that but then you start getting to serious $. All ply and plaster should be glued and screwed - do not rely on nails. For acoustic insulation many would recommend using one of the denser polyester batts or blankets @ 48Kg/m3. I'm about to start another room build and will use two layers of the 50mm stuff on the third last line here. I would have just gone 100mm but it's hard to source and I've got a few spots I'm not sure I'll be able to squeeze 100mm into. For the garage doors, do you need to open them? If not pack with the same polyester batts/blankets and build another false wall. The general rules of soundproofing are to: Make airtight (you'll still need a source of fresh air). Add mass and control reverberation. Isolate (this is where is gets very expensive and not many spend that sort of $ with furring channel and isolation clips etc)
  10. Really good light control will make a big difference to the image from your projector. Even with heavy curtains and a pelmet, you're likely to get light leakage at the bottom of a curtain. Room 2 probably gives the best basis to get good light control and is a decent size. Consider a tight fitting blockout blind and pelmet for the window. I'd suggest keeping the front speakers and subs on the wall furthest from the neighbours if you worried about noise leakage as it's more about the inverse square law than sound leakage being directional. Also, the window will be a weak point for sound leakage - instead of a blind, you could consider having some acoustic panel made up to double as light blockout and noise attentuation. Given you'll replace some of the plaster if you use room 2, think about using sound batts, then screw and glue heavy ply before the plasterboard - again screw and glue - do not use nails. Room 3 is a bit narrow for a good sized screen and then still give front L&R speakers some room to breathe. Room 1 looks problematic from a light control perspective. For the projector, try to stretch the budget to a base JVC X5900 - some good run-out deals at present and they're probably the best bang for buck around your budget.
  11. Yes, Disney don't want to scare the kiddies, so bass is filtered and turned down - just sucks the life out of any action. If you're a fan of the original Bladerunner, the UHD is a must have - I was gobsmacked by the picture quality. The audio has been reworked - directionality has improved, but the dynamic range is a little compressed IMO.
  12. Quark

    for sale oppo bdp95

    Bargain! GLWTS!
  13. That's the correct one, so rules that out as an issue.
  14. I meant for the AVR's LFE connection - I've been caught out before...