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  1. With your AVR you can use either a single cable or the splitter cable. You only need separate L & R cables for a stereo amp that doesn't split the bass off into an LFE channel.
  2. You should ask one of the moderators to move this to the Classifieds - Stereo, Home Cinema & Headphones section. P.S. Nice to see the cooling fan.
  3. Yes, wouldn't be an issue outside daylight hours.
  4. Thinking about this some more - wondering whether you've lost brightness post calibration or whether it was pre-existing. Did you backup the factory settings before calibrating? If so might be worth restoring to see if much difference. I really doubt it would be mains voltage or breaker related. If you've got solar panels might be worth isolating those as a test - many inverters put out a relatively square wave rather than sine wave.
  5. You don't have it aligned with the screen properly. What's the model number? This will let us know if it has lens shift, or whether you'll need to use keystone adjustments (not preferred). A picture of the image would help too.
  6. If I recall correctly, I did it in the app after rerunning Audyssey. FYI the dip is actually called mid-range compensation.
  7. That's good, you've got Audyssey XT32 which will EQ each sub separately (preferable). I do do prefer using the app to turn off the default mid range dip in Audyssey to improve dialog clarity - YMMV. Agree a second sub can really help even up bass response, especially in a square room.
  8. With your square room, bass EQ is likely to be important. Which AVR are you using? If it's one with limited room EQ then the SVS' DSP functions will be a real advantage. Otherwise, agree, not a whole lot between them.
  9. Definitely go in-ceiling speakers for Atmos. I'd recommend in-ceiling speakers with a sealed enclosure to avoid insects and debris getting on the speaker cones and causing rattles. I went with Krix Atmospherix. Most in-ceiling speakers designed for Atmos will be easy to drive and their limited duties mean that matching brands/timbre isn't essential.
  10. Agree it's a legitimate warranty claim regardless. HDMI ports should be robust and reliable (even if that means the industry specs need updating).
  11. Fibre cables still have some copper strands for the less data intensive functions - if I recall correctly CEC, EDID and power. Induced currents can be developed in the cable itself, not from power or network connections.
  12. Have you had thunderstorms close by when the ports failed? I've had a couple of HDMI ports fried when connected to longer HDMI cables - presumably from induced currents from nearby lightning strikes.
  13. The 6015 only comes with basic Audyssey XT, not XT32. The difference between the two is bass EQ (where you generally need it the most) and it's chalk vs cheese. Will your budget stretch to a Denon X3700 (which has XT32)? Denon/Marantz are part of the same business and have a lot in common. Other than lacking XT32, the 5015 is a good choice.
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