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Quark

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  1. Sadly, with the barn doors you'll be wasting money on sound proofing. Even small air gaps leak a lot of sound. However, room treatments to reduce reflections will still help with in-room acoustics.
  2. For carpet - you just need to go with a good quality underlay and a reasonably thick pile to help in room acoustics.
  3. With barn doors you will be wasting money on soundproofing unless you get rid of these - any door that isn't airtight will pass sound. Use solid core door(s) with a jamb at the bottom, not hollow core. Once the room is airtight you need to think about heating/cooling - if ducted, you need a return air vent in the room. Assuming you change the doors out, you could leave the existing plaster and just add extra layer(s) of 16mm Fyrchek plaster (usualkly cheaper than Soundchek). It won't be as effective as adding insulation in the walls and/or mounting plaster to isolation clips and u
  4. Looking good. When you buy the Audyssey app, try turning off mid-range compensation (it's a check box).
  5. A used Elektra Pnyx would be a bit over your budget if you can stretch it a little. Neutral sound, dead quiet, RCA and balanced inputs, HT bypass. You can tweak the sound by valve rolling (I'm not a fan of the standard Electroharmonix 6922s). The valves are also bypassed for HT. I'm not that familiar with the two DACs you're considering - will leave it to others to comment.
  6. Make sure your speaker wire is clear of power cables and other sources of interference e.g. routers, wifi devices. Try swapping the L&R rear speaker wires at the back of your AVR. If the hissing changes sides it's probably your AVR.
  7. An ignominious end to a once respected brand.
  8. You can think of impedance as the AC equivalent of resistance. Speakers with a lower impedance will draw more current. At higher volumes an unsuitable amp will run out of current capacity and clip - essentially send DC to the drivers - this is likely to fry them. 2.7 Ohms is quite low (and likely to be problematic with your 3312), but often low impedances are in bass frequencies and if your AVR's crossover is set to the typical 80Hz AND your speakers are set to Small in the AVR, much of the problematic low impedance won't be loaded on your AVR. What make/model are your speakers? Of
  9. Try connecting the Panasonic directly to the Epson using the in-wall cable. If that doesn't work my money would be on a dud cable. You can check by using a short cable to connect the Pana to the Epson. If the in wall cable does work on a direct connection, try swapping out the cable you've been using between the Pana and Denon. To me this reads like a faulty cable issue.
  10. If you're DIY or using a sparkie, be aware that most longer, high bandwidth cables are directional and will not work in reverse. With the Yamaha, they do have a reputation for putting out a meagre HDMI voltage so you may need to try several cable brands - I've heard reports that some haven't worked with longer Ruipro cables (which are normally rock solid).
  11. I'd add that only the mid/high Denon/Marantz models with Audyssey XT32 (rather than XT) have room correction software that's IMO better than Yamaha's YPAO equivalent. Also, be aware that recent model Yamahas have had compatibility issues with some HDMI cables - apparently due to their meagre HDMI output voltage. It's mainly affected longer, active cables.
  12. I'm actually using Krix Atmospherix kiwimeat is considering and have been pleased with their performance. However, they're not much of a step up from the Hemispherix and these are obviously an easier and cheaper solution given the ceiling space. I'd agree, you should consider a projector if you can get light control of the room - they're much more immersive than a TV.
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